open riser stair case

[sue denim]

Hello

I have made many solid oak closed riser stairs for clients but my latest client has asked for an open riser stair. The general construction is not a problem. However I am stuck on how best to secure the treads. On one side I can screw through the string as it is against a wall. The other string is exposed and I really don't want to use pellets over screw and would prefer an alternative.

Any suggestions please.

Many thanks in advance

'Sue'

 

[CHJ]

Can you construct without stringers and just use two carriage beams and riser blocks.

 

[Dusty]

You could use Mortis and tenons

Kind regards Dusty

 

[Mar_mite]

Do you mean that the riser is mitred into the string? Is there a moulding under the nosing of the tread? You could get a screw in there and a screw where the tread meets the riser. Maybe a glue block on the inside, or buiscuits?

 

[Jacob]

Can you construct without stringers and just use two carriage beams and riser blocks.

Agree. Getting rid of the riser but keeping the stringers looks a bit odd. Not that I'm a fan of open stairs - you have to close the gap anyway to obstruct a 100mm spherical child's head but even then you could catch your foot and break a leg. I'd talk them out of it if I was you. :shock:

 

[CHJ]

I know, they should have riser gaps restricted but these were built in the early 60's and that is the least of the current regulation deficiencies.

 

[Giff]

Not an expert but Dominos if you can get hold of one. Or sliding dovetails ?

 

[ColeyS1]

If you had a nice snug housing and use some cascamite that'd certainly help. I'd be inclined to make a hardwood tongue and screw and glue to the inside of the housing - then route a slot in the end of the tread to take the tongue. You'll have made a nice big area for the glue to stick, you could shoot a couple nails from under the tread through the tongue just for that extra peace of mind
Coley

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk

 

[Jacob]

If you are going to go with stringers then you can't beat the traditional glued and wedged housing. But you'll have to do it tidier than normal if it's in sight. Perhaps add a cover strip for the bottom edge of the string. A very shallow gradient for the wedges makes a much tighter fixing and looks neater but you may have to trim a few to get them to fit neatly.

 

[Berncarpenter]

Hi Sue
What do you think about screwing and pelleting as normal and then applying a veneer to the exposed string ?

Cheers Bern.

 

[nev]

2 part stringer? Face the outer string with oak, join covered by baserail???

 

[GK1]

Can the treads fly over the stringer at the open side, then you fasten the treads through square mortices which take the spindles.

Or may maybe I've got this horribly wrong in which case ignore me

 

[sue denim]

Thanks all

There are some good ideas above. It would appear that there is no standard method applied to this situation.

The stairs need to match a standard closed riser case that I made for them last year.

The treads will be housed into the 38mm thick string 15mm deep. The treads are 32mm thick.

I think that a combination of glue and then drilling three pellet holes on the underside of the tread touching the string. Then three screws skewed up into the string. The pellets will not be too obvious hidden under the tread.

Any thoughts?

Thank you all for the above suggestions.

'Sue'

 

[ColeyS1]

Pin holes are smaller than pellets

Sent from my GT-I9300 using Tapatalk