Now I need a new cordless drill/driver.

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Called with a not so local repair center yesterday. They tell me the gearbox is gone quoted around £100 to fix. I declined.
Maybe I can pick up a body somewhere. It's GSB 18V-LI 3601 H67 100 I need or one that accepts the same batteries.
No luck so far.
 
artie":1tce3lmd said:
Called with a not so local repair center yesterday. They tell me the gearbox is gone quoted around £100 to fix. I declined.
Maybe I can pick up a body somewhere. It's GSB 18V-LI 3601 H67 100 I need or one that accepts the same batteries.
No luck so far.

So much for my suggestion to get it fixed. That is pretty steep money for a repair. Fingers crossed you get lucky with some SH parts
 
artie":341vechq said:
Called with a not so local repair center yesterday. They tell me the gearbox is gone quoted around £100 to fix. I declined.
Maybe I can pick up a body somewhere. It's GSB 18V-LI 3601 H67 100 I need or one that accepts the same batteries.
No luck so far.

£65 for the gearbox as a spare part from Miles Tools so the price for the repair isn't unreasonable.
That said you'd get the top end brushless combi - the GSB 18v 85c - for about £150 bare tool inc VAT off ebay so value wise it makes sense to just replace it and restart with a 3 yr warranty. There's a drill driver version too for similar money.
 
Slight interlude. Has anyone else found that powertool cases never have space for he cable (whether it be just for the charger or not)? I have 7 newish boxed powertools and only one (Metabo Sander) has actually left space I deem sufficent for the cable... the rest either have an absurdly small space or non at all :?

Its actaully really quite annoying... :roll:
 
It doesn't seem to occur to the designers that we might want to keep something else in the box. In my drill case I have two sets of drill bits, three long SDS bits, three breaker bits, a small tub of grease, a spirit level, a tape measure, pencils, plugs, insulating tape, a chuck and three diamond hole saws. There is a reasonable amount of room - but I'm the only person who can get all back in. :D
 
I stripped my Bosch 10.8V drill/driver yesterday. It's one of these (GSR 12V-15):
bosch_gsr_12_v_15_body.jpg


Sorry there are no pics but I used the kitchen table (so had to hurry). To disassemble, there are a number of Torx T9-headed self tappers between the two clamshells, and one U-shaped clip at the open end of the battery compartment, which can be hooked out with a flat-bladed screwdriver used on edge. The drill comes apart easily, and the motor separates from the gearbox without issues and can be disconnected from its power leads without unsoldering.

I am quite impressed with the design and engineering (despite the very sloppy chuck/shaft). The motor is _very_ chunky for the size and has extremely strong magnets, but it is still well magnetically shielded. I'm not too impressed with the quality of the high-current soldering (thick motor wires that looked dry-jointed), but didn't interfere in case I made matters worse. The board connections were sound though.

I think the intermittent starting problem was a loose connection to the rear of the motor (Lucar spade connectors). Squeezed them a bit tighter, and now it's fine. It's apparent that the high- and low-current (control) circuits follow rather different routes, so it's quite possible the control side was fine but couldn't get enough drive to the motor because of a poor connection. There's no obvious feedback from the motor to the controller, though it may do current sensing through the power connections.

The switch is very complex, and I think it's low current at the trigger, so not directly responsible for the issue (as I'd originally feared). You can still buy the board and switch combination as a spare part (around 25 quid). It would be an easy repair if it was needed.

I cleaned everything and added quite a lot of grease* to the planetaries on the gearbox input side as (a) they looked a bit dry, and (b) they were easy to get at, also to the speed change actuator where it enters the sides of the gearbox housing. Thoroughly cleaned all the sliders, etc I could get at too, and the motor cooling vents.

I don't think it's quite as good as new (it is eight or nine years old, now), but it is running smoothly and quietly again and the speed change and torque clutch both seem to work fine.

This is the second series of Bosch cordless drills where I have really struggled (and failed) to release the chuck. I tried several approaches, including gripping a large Allen key in the chuck and hitting the inside of the key with a spanner (along the shaft axis!). Couldn't get it to break free. Do the professionals use a puller of some sort? There's a dust trap right behind the chuck on this one that might make that difficult. Previously, I just undid the LH threaded machine screw and the chucks came free easily, but not so any more, it seems. Bright ideas for chuck removal greedily considered, as I would have liked to clean/grease the clutch, but couldn't.

All-in-all it seems well made and serviceable without special tools (apart from the chuck!). I don't know about the current ones - these are still available but the current designs all have a ridiculous hammer-action function that I don't want. The motor is particularly good, and an obvious area for cost reduction if they've been doing that. Just sayin'.

E.

*Castrol high-temp lithium, as it's all I have handy. probably the wrong stuff, but seems to work for most tasks and doesn't dry up easily.
 
MikeJhn":3g101t5c said:
£139.00 for the two: https://www.ffx.co.uk/tools/product/Dew ... r-Twin-Kit with batteries and charger.

Mike

I have a 12v Dewalt which I find undergunned when using. I prefer to stick to 18v.

Beau":3g101t5c said:
So much for my suggestion to get it fixed. That is pretty steep money for a repair. Fingers crossed you get lucky with some SH parts

I have a bosch blue jigsaw which just quietly stopped working. I don't think I'll bother trying the center with it. It was seldom used anyway.

Sideways":3g101t5c said:
£65 for the gearbox as a spare part from Miles Tools so the price for the repair isn't unreasonable.
That said you'd get the top end brushless combi - the GSB 18v 85c - for about £150 bare tool inc VAT off ebay so value wise it makes sense to just replace it and restart with a 3 yr warranty. There's a drill driver version too for similar money.

I'd pay £60 odd quid for the gearbag if I was confident I could fit it myself. but I'm not so a replacement of some kind is on the cards. I wonder is there a list of compatable batteries for drill models.?
 
phil.p":1ehcfpuo said:
It doesn't seem to occur to the designers that we might want to keep something else in the box. In my drill case I have two sets of drill bits, three long SDS bits, three breaker bits, a small tub of grease, a spirit level, a tape measure, pencils, plugs, insulating tape, a chuck and three diamond hole saws. There is a reasonable amount of room - but I'm the only person who can get all back in. :D


It does occur to them thats why you can have the regular blowmoulded case or pay extra for whichever manafactures stackable case system
That can have different combinations of tools in one case as well as accessories or an entire second case for accessories and its a good idea hence why the can charge 30 odd quid for what in reality is a really rubbish plastic tool box
Someone who makes a systainer system for about £10 a box will make a fortune i think
 
Arti

The 12V Dewalt you have, is it LI-Ion, because the ones I linked to are as powerful as my 18v DeWalts, Li-ion batteries are able to give out far more amps than the earlier generation of batteries.

Mike
 
MikeJhn":4slt667f said:
Arti

The 12V Dewalt you have, is it LI-Ion, because the ones I linked to are as powerful as my 18v DeWalts, Li-ion batteries are able to give out far more amps than the earlier generation of batteries.

Mike

Yes it is and it is a pretty good machine. It's three years old so maybe newer ones are better.
 

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