Novice spindle molder question

[noddy67]

I am looking to try some template copying on my spindle milder. This will be a first attempt so please excuse the dumb questions.

I currently have a cutter block such as:

http://bivenmachinerysales.co.uk/index. ... uct_id=203

Is it a simple matter of trying to source some bearings to go on top (or underneath) the block and proceed as though it was a router?

Is there any kind of setup that doesn't involve buying new bearings? Somehow using a fence perhaps?

Should the final finish be superior to that from a router or will it be about the same?

Any other tips or pointers to a newbie in this area?

Many thanks

 

[RobinBHM]

Bearing rings are available for a spindle moulder, the best option is to choose one that is 125mm diameter that matches a rebate block. You can also obtain a bearing and a ring set which has different ring sizes. Your templates would need to be adjusted for the offset, in the same way as a template guide on a router

Traditionally curved work is done with a ring fence and will work with any block. It requires a ring fence guard and carefully designed templates with a run in and run out. Small pieces of work will require a complete jig with toggle clamps. Both jigs and possibly the ring fence guard will require additional protection for guarding of hands.

However, ring fence work on a spindle moulder is recommended only for well experienced users of this machine, so in the context of a forum I wouldn't suggest you try it. For a one off, I would tend to prefer using a hand router with a straight guide bearing. The type that Wealdon sell which have disposable tips (standard 50 x 12), give a fantastic finish when really sharp.

 

[custard]

There's not that much advantage in terms of copy routing on a spindle versus a router table for profiles less than about 40mm thick. Once you get to 50mm or thicker profiles the spindle moulder pulls ahead.

Personally I tend to prefer the spindle moulder with a ring fence for all copy work, mainly because the spindle moulder is making the full cut only at the very apex of the ring fence (where as a router is making the full cut as soon as the template touches the bearing), you can use this to your advantage with a ring fence by feathering the cut in and out. However, others detest the ring fence for exactly the same reason, saying they're never confident that the profile has been truly followed!

As Robin said, spindle moulders aren't for tinkering with, there's a long check list for copy work that you have to get 100% right before it's safe, and not all the items on the check list are particularly obvious, for example even the way you mount toggle clamps to the template needs to be done correctly.

Training would be a smart investment, I think Peter Sefton might run short spindle moulding courses.

Good luck!

 

[blackrodd]

I agree Exactly as Custard and robin say.
You will need this bell guard, which does not always come with the ring fence(s).
There are cheaper bell guards on Flea bay from time to time.
And some time with Peter Sefton would be very well spent!

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Heavy-Duty-Sp ... 1087103752

Regards Rodders

 

[deema]

Bearing guides are in my opinion best avoided, I had some and soon saw the perils of them and sold them off. A modern ring fence is the Prefered route to shaped work, and if combined with a power feed creates a finish that a router cannot hope to get close to. If you have bought a modern spindle moulded (or secindhand from a dealer) it has by law to be supplied with a ring fence, the better ones have a micro adjuster that moves the ring back and forth. A course on how to use the spindle moulder is a great investment or failing that read a few books on the subject, there is one text that is considered to be the bible that you will find everywhere. (spindle moulder handbook).

A template with proper hand holds and guards is essential for safe use, these are relatively easy to produce. I try to avoid toggle clamps and generally screw the piece down to the template to ensure it won't move. There is usually somewhere that will be hidden from view....but not always. Always run the cutter beneath the piece, rather than having any blade projecting above the work piece - again not always possible -

Make sure your spindle has enough grunt to run the moulding / size of block and amount your trying to take off. Generally a spindle is used to mould in one pass.

 

[Stocksy27]

Ring fence as said is the best option, eccentric ring means you can do it in many passes with out resetting, you need to be fully confident with the spindle though as soon as you get scared of it, thats when it will bite, i personally think ring fences with all the guards all over makes it harder as you can't see the ring or the cutter and whats its doing, can you get a larger more heavy rebate block as will chatter less against the timber.

 

[Peter Sefton]

The Spindle Moulder can give you a superb finish if set up well. But not a machine to be played with without understanding the implications of it's power.

We do cover the safe setup and use of the Spindle on the optional third day of our short wood machining course. The morning is straight fence work and the afternoon is ring fence and bearing work both within a bonnet guard. They have different advantages and issues to consider depending on what you are trying to achieve.

Cheers Peter

 

[PAC1]

In my view it should be compulsory for all people who use a spindle moulder to be fully trained on its use. I know some think this is a bit extreme but for safety reasons it should be compulsory. I would also recommend Eric Stephenson's book Spindle Moulder Handbook it is up to date and provides clear practical advice as well as safe methods of work.
It is then a great machine if you are confident in its use. The last point I would add is with curved work I always try to ensure there is a lead pin so that you have a second reference point when starting a cut.
A practical point with circular fences versus bearings is that with the fence you can take off a few mm at a time but with bearings you have to dis assemble the block to swap the bearing and then you are working to 5mm steps. That can be hard work when you have to hold it in two hands. Bearings come into their own when doing curved rebates and mouldings as long as you can work in 5mm steps (a 10mm or 15mm rebate rather than 12mm).

 

[Jacob]

In my view it should be compulsory for all people who use a spindle moulder to be fully trained on its use. I know some think this is a bit extreme but for safety reasons it should be compulsory.

Dunno I think the TS is far more dangerous. The spindle is more scary somehow - so I think people take more care

I would also recommend Eric Stephenson's book Spindle Moulder Handbook it is up to date and provides clear practical advice as well as safe methods of work.

Has it been revised? My edition is very out of date with lots of deprecated procedures described. No prob for me (touch wood) I'm into deprecated procedures.
Ring fences are alarming at first but you soon get the hang of them and they can be very useful and productive.

 

[PAC1]

Jacob, I hope that is an argument for training on both rather than no training because the TS is worse!
Yes the book was revised in 2007 and comes with an endorsement from HSE

 

[Jacob]

OK I'll have a look at the new edition.
NB Yes you are quite right to make people cautious about the spindle.
I don't think people are cautious enough about the TS especially in view of recent threads.