Newbie Question; Blades / Turning

[Barnum]

Hi all

I'm very new to this lark having brought my first scroll saw a few days ago. I'm hoping someone can help, as I've been reading very contrasting advice online.

I have an entry level, pin-blade saw. I find that when I'm trying to cut quite tight curves, the blade twists as I move the wood. Some people online say I should move the wood quickly, keeping pressure on the back of the blade so it doesn't cut.

Others say the blade twisting is because I'm going too fast, and I need to keep the blade cutting forwards to prevent the twist.

One site even says that blades can take a lot of twist, so don't worry about it.

I'm very jealous of the guys in the vids who can spin their wood around the blade. If I were to try that I think my blade would snap.

Perhaps it's the width of the blade, and I have ordered an Olson conversion kit so I'll be able to take much smaller pinless blades. That may help.

Are there any other suggestions, explanations or tips?

Thanks everyone!

 

[Chippygeoff]

The problem with pinned blades is there is a very small selection available and most tend to be on the big side. Until you get your conversion kit you want to try backing the blade up when you come to a tight turn. I will explain how to do this. As you proceed along the line of the pattern towards the tight turn continue cutting and stop when you come to the tight turn, back the blade up with the saw is still sawing, back up about 10mm and then turn the workpiece with the teeth of the blade in the direction of the waste side, when you have completely reversed the direction of the blade back it up to the end of the cut and then start on the new line. Hope you can follow this okay. When you have fitted the conversion kit you will be able to use pinless blades which offer a vast selection and types of blade. Happy scrolling.

 

[Bryan Bennett]

A very warm welcome to the forum Barnum,Geoff has pointed you in the right direction.I am sure that you will get the advice required to enjoy this fabulous hobby that we all enjoy.Just keep asking the questions and someone will come back to you with the answer. :roll:

Bryan

 

[ChrisR]

Welcome to the site/forum.

Geoff has given sound advice, and Geoff is very experienced at scroll sawing.

You did mention the videos on the web, with the person doing the sawing, moving and turning their work piece very quickly, you will find with practice you will also be able to turn without a problem, but be aware that a lot of the demonstration videos on line are not in real time, a lot are 2x or in some cases 3x speed. :shock:

Take care.

Chris R.

 

[Claymore]

but be aware that a lot of the demonstration videos on line are not in real time, a lot are 2x or in some cases 3x speed. :shock:
I get in a sweat just thinking about turning the wood without breaking the blades lol 9-)

 

[Barnum]

Thanks all for your comments and suggestions. I've been practicing how to get the tight curves by going into the waste area and coming at it from a new angle. This is fine, though when I originally bought the scroll saw I was hoping to use it for marquetry and stack cutting - these are pretty much impossible at the moment, as I need to have a waste area.

To be honest, it's not the speed of the videos that impresses me; it's the manoeuvrability - people can rotate their wood easily around the blade. Having read your suggestions and looking closely, I think it's literally just the size of the blade that's preventing me from doing this. It's too wide to turn in its own kerf so any turning twists the blade.

Fingers crossed this conversion kit will allow me to use tiny pinless blades and I'll be able to get stuck into the fretwork and marquetry that I was hoping for.

Thanks!

 

[Claymore]

You will be surprised at how fine the pinless blades can cut..... I'm a newbie to scrolling and originally used the standard pinned blades that came with an old scrollsaw but the guys on here recommended i try some pinless ones and they seem tiny but surprisingly strong and i have noticed that if i go slowly and not try and force the wood its much easier and have managed one or two of the quick rotations lol as with any new skill its best to go slowly and concentrate on accuracy.
I watched a video online of a guy using a bandsaw and he too was whizzing about cutting 4" thick oak with his fingers an inch off the blade! tried it on my cheap bandsaw and BANG! the blade snapped before i could damage myself lol I have since pitted a 10mm good blade from TuffSaws and although it won't cut sharp curves it is great for cutting larger pieces down to size for scrolling.
Have fun
Brian