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memzey":1m671z40 said:
Just a quick question here on how people test their edge tools for their "sharp enough" standard after sharpening; I would count myself as a beginner as I've only been doing woodwork as a hobby for the past year or so. I sharpen freehand on some old oil stones I bought for 50p each at boot fairs and some charged leather glued to a block of wood. With a typical plane iron this takes me about a minute or so including the strop. I then attempt to dry shave some hairs on my arm. If I'm successful without pulling any hairs I think to myself "memzey that's sharp enough" then reassemble the plane and get cracking again. Is this what most people do as well?

I have three tests. The first is to look at the edge. If you can see a line of reflected light, it's not sharp enough. If you see nothing, it probably is. Test two is the 'ball of the thumb' test - just pass the ball of the thumb (very gently!) over the edge, and if it 'catches' the skin, it's sharp enough. If it slides over the skin without catching, it isn't. Test three is to use the tool for it's intended purpose, and see how it goes - you'll soon notice if it isn't performing as it should.

Must admit, I gave up arm-shaving years ago. I'm fairly sure it's just a bit of a show-off from master to apprentice, really; nobody does it 'for real' normally. Besides, it's too much bother peeling back woolies and shirt-sleeves on a cold day!
 
memzey":2lshomfo said:
Just a quick question here on how people test their edge tools for their "sharp enough" standard after sharpening; I would count myself as a beginner as I've only been doing woodwork as a hobby for the past year or so. I sharpen freehand on some old oil stones I bought for 50p each at boot fairs and some charged leather glued to a block of wood. With a typical plane iron this takes me about a minute or so including the strop. I then attempt to dry shave some hairs on my arm. If I'm successful without pulling any hairs I think to myself "memzey that's sharp enough" then reassemble the plane and get cracking again. Is this what most people do as well?
I push the blade into the edge of a piece of paper. If it'll just slide through the paper (cutting it in half, with essentially no effort on your part) then it must be sharp. Doesn't indicate it'll be a strong edge that lasts, but it'll have to be sharp to do that.
 
memzey":3jl69jcw said:
I then attempt to dry shave some hairs on my arm. If I'm successful without pulling any hairs I think to myself "memzey that's sharp enough" then reassemble the plane and get cracking again. Is this what most people do as well?

Just get back to work, the tool will tell you soon enough if it needs more attention. If you ever did that shaving or paper slicing foolishness in a professional workshop the other craftsmen would think you had a screw loose!
 
I take out the iron, take out the 1200 waterstone, give the iron half a dozen strokes (assuming it's not damaged) on the bevel and a couple on the other side. Wipe it on my trousers and use it. It's good for nearly 100% of what I do. Life is too short. :)
 
I take my irons out.
Move them to my hermetically sealed sharpening chamber and by the way I only do this on a Wednesday between 20:38 and 22:07.
Lock myself in. Turn off all but one of the chambers lights.

I recite the Lords Prayer 3 times, and once whilst I'm stood on my head in the east corner facing the wall.
I open the Jack and Jill book "A day at the farm" to page 7, Jack meets a cow. Then and only then can the sharpening ritual start.

To remove the biggest knicks I have a piece of Pennant Blue stone, one owned by Lloyd George ( by the way he knew my father )
As many strokes as it takes until the knick is gone are carried out.
Next I bring to my table the Harland an Wolff 19th cut ( this is obviously 17 cuts above a 2nd cut ) keel makers file. You would not believe how smooth the cut of this file is. I ran it over the bare backside of my infant granddaughter and she only required a 4 hour skin graft operation, fine and smooth are not the words to describe this file.
I set to work with the file, again taking as long as it takes to get the edge I require.

Once this stage has been completed it is now time for the most controversial part of my regime.
If you are easily offended or work for the RSPCA or other animal charities please look away now.

I keep Brown Swiss cattle, a bit of a side line but hey ho a guy's got to eat. Right??
I take a calf, the younger the better, and peel back the hide on its left rear quarter. I add, the calf is alive.
I strop my blade against the inside of the hide, the fat and blood mix makes a fantastic compound. I clean and repeat and then clean and repeat once more.
I patch up the calf with duct tape and a mixture of flour, salt and water putty. I've found the resale value of the calf is often affected if I don't make good the hide. You should see the ones I've had to use several times, not pretty, really not pretty.

Once this has been done I now call my blade/iron sharp. Actually I do, I say "hey sharp how you doing?". They never answer.
Note to self,,, try same greeting in Mandarin.

I wait until 22:07, usually passing the time by inventing new names for girls alphabetically. I'm at K, if anyone was interested.
The time lock releases the door and I enter the world once again. Armed with a sharp iron.

The test. No paper, no hairs on the back of my hand, no forearm hair, no finger or thumb nail test, no need for an electron microscope. At the bottom of the garden I have a 1956 Wolseley 4/44. On the drivers door 3 inches south of the door release lever I test the sharpness of my blades. If I can leave a horizontal 1/8" slice in the vinyl, following a 6.36 metre run up whilst wearing bedroom slippers, I consider my iron sharp.
There's no need of the fancy wet stones, diamond plates, jigs and fixtures. Follow my lead and embrace my method, I'm more than willing to take you through the finer points, and start enjoying sharp tools.
 
memzey":rm6h7r74 said:
I then attempt to dry shave some hairs on my arm. If I'm successful without pulling any hairs I think to myself "memzey that's sharp enough" then reassemble the plane and get cracking again. Is this what most people do as well?
That will usually be sharp enough. There aren't any absolutes when it comes to sharpening and all jokes aside individual standards for "sharp enough" do vary, but in general you'd want a smoother's iron sharpened as well as your kit can manage while a jack plane set up traditionally with a cambered iron can usually be used straight from a relatively coarse stone (by modern standards) for all the difference it would make to how it'll perform.
 
n0legs":1p4eaqkl said:
...I recite the Lords Prayer 3 times, and once whilst I'm stood on my head in the east corner facing the wall...
Only 3 times? Pfffft. Amateur.








:mrgreen:
 
D_W":lz8gnq9n said:
though there is a subset of students here who would like to learn to build planes - nobody available to teach them, though


I'm in Tucson AZ. I offered a plane making class at the local woodcraft. Nobody signed up.
 
memzey":3j1oliyn said:
Just a quick question here on how people test their edge tools for their "sharp enough" standard after sharpening; I would count myself as a beginner as I've only been doing woodwork as a hobby for the past year or so. I sharpen freehand on some old oil stones I bought for 50p each at boot fairs and some charged leather glued to a block of wood. With a typical plane iron this takes me about a minute or so including the strop. I then attempt to dry shave some hairs on my arm. If I'm successful without pulling any hairs I think to myself "memzey that's sharp enough" then reassemble the plane and get cracking again. Is this what most people do as well?


Essentially, yes.
I do however have a bit of a stone fetish. But if my chisel will shave my arm it's good enough for woodworking.
 

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