Twadle. Veritas planes use a Norris style adjuster which having also owned a full set of Lie Nielson I can say in my opinion the Veritas plane (I now have just a No4, No6 with a Noris) is better and easier to adjust / hold its adjustment when encountering a hard knot.
decent hand plane wanted /recommendations
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CaptainBudget
Established Member
+1 for a restorer. I've purchased "new" planes from Axminster in the early days of my hobby (4.5 and a 7); I'd say they are more or less as good as the wood rivers, etc. but they are heavy as ****.
My go-to planes these days are a ~1950 Record no.4 I restored myself (lot of effort), and a vintage Stanley no.5 (60s I think, still has wooden handles) I bought from Tooltique. I also have a Record 5.5 I bought from them as well that actually seems to weigh less than the modern 4.5 and is a joy to use.
I don't use the 4.5 at all any more, it's just gathering dust because the lighter no.4 is easier to use and produces a beautiful finish; if I needed to use it more frequently I'd seriously consider swapping the no.7 for a much lighter vintage Stanley/Record version
If I was starting again I wouldn't even consider buying a "new" plane and would go straight for a well restored vintage plane; my only problem with Tooltique is they put them up as and when they restore them and they don't hang around very long... I'm in my 30s and I already know these vintage planes will see me out, and they are so nice to work with.
In short, get him a well-restored no.3 or no.4 Record or Stanley from someone who knows what they are doing, they are just better than what's off the shelf today. You could always make him a gift box...
Agree with the above. A well restored, or just good condition, vintage Stanley or Record is often much better than a new off the shelf plane (unless of course you spend alot of dollar on a Le Nielsen etc)
Also there's an infinite supply of spares and blades for these older planes. If you drop or damage your Le Nielsen, or even Quangsheng, how much will it cost to replace a part or even obtain one.
Also there's an infinite supply of spares and blades for these older planes. If you drop or damage your Le Nielsen, or even Quangsheng, how much will it cost to replace a part or even obtain one.
richarddownunder
Established Member
Supporting your local manufacturers...https://www.flinn-garlick-saws.co.uk/product-category/clifton-hand-planes/
Jacob
New Luddism. Wake up and resist.
2 Ds in twaddle.
They work but they don't work well.
That's why the Stanley/Bailey design has dominated the market since it was introduced 100+ years ago. It looks fussy but it works really well.
Stanley got it completely wrong with their new SW range - well made, cheap, would have been highly competitive but lumbered with the Norris style adjuster. They threw away the one thing which made Stanley/Bailey design utterly superior and went for fashion instead!
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clogs
just can't decide
have several planes that dont get used much....but my Stanley pocket plane I'd be lost without now......
the best tool for a good feeling in use is my leather handled Estwing.....gifted from a departed old friend.....
off topic sorry......
the best tool for a good feeling in use is my leather handled Estwing.....gifted from a departed old friend.....
off topic sorry......
Jarno
Established Member
+1 for old tools, especially over in the UK (but USA also) so many excellent planes available, with minor TLC are most excellent.
I am partial to pre-50's Record planes (but Woden or Preston are also nice). Recently bought a Record 03 from just after WWII and it is a delightful little plane.
Not sure if weight higher in similar planes than earlier, there certainly are some generations which have planes that are a lot heavier, but pre-50's castings of at least Record will be a bit chunkier than 60's and 70's, but I do agree that current Stanleys are really heavy again. And I have an 80's Stanley no.6 which is also an absolute behemoth.
So yeah, buy an early Record 03 for instance:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/23528649...5rlAO3fDwQWNNDo3hskLj7QA==|tkp:Bk9SR-qP4vf6Yg
Look past the Stanley iron, but that is a 30's plane, for about 40GBP (+postage), with rosewood handle and knob. Pretty shure that will be a fantastic plane, add a Ray Iles blade if you are worried about the quality of the iron. The 03 I recently bought was half that amount, the point is, you can find superb planes for little money, no need to shell out 100's. If you are worried about tuning them, watch the Paul Sellers video on youtube, or any of a multitude of others.
I am partial to pre-50's Record planes (but Woden or Preston are also nice). Recently bought a Record 03 from just after WWII and it is a delightful little plane.
Not sure if weight higher in similar planes than earlier, there certainly are some generations which have planes that are a lot heavier, but pre-50's castings of at least Record will be a bit chunkier than 60's and 70's, but I do agree that current Stanleys are really heavy again. And I have an 80's Stanley no.6 which is also an absolute behemoth.
So yeah, buy an early Record 03 for instance:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/23528649...5rlAO3fDwQWNNDo3hskLj7QA==|tkp:Bk9SR-qP4vf6Yg
Look past the Stanley iron, but that is a 30's plane, for about 40GBP (+postage), with rosewood handle and knob. Pretty shure that will be a fantastic plane, add a Ray Iles blade if you are worried about the quality of the iron. The 03 I recently bought was half that amount, the point is, you can find superb planes for little money, no need to shell out 100's. If you are worried about tuning them, watch the Paul Sellers video on youtube, or any of a multitude of others.
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Adam W.
A Major Clanger
Another Record plane fan here too. I find them less chattery.
Love a record hand router(got a LN one) but they all sell for high prices.
Love a record hand router(got a LN one) but they all sell for high prices.
Jacob
New Luddism. Wake up and resist.
I have a Stanley 3 with plastic handles.
Actually it's a top quality little plane and you'd hardly notice that they are plastic, except for the ghost of a moulding seam. I thought they were rosewood at first.
Actually it's a top quality little plane and you'd hardly notice that they are plastic, except for the ghost of a moulding seam. I thought they were rosewood at first.
Max Power
Established Member
They've had those horrendous plastic handles since the 70's.I have a Stanley 3 with plastic handles.
Actually it's a top quality little plane and you'd hardly notice that they are plastic, except for the ghost of a moulding seam. I thought they were rosewood at first.
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
I'll bet anyone who's got both, what's not tucked away inside a Tetris puzzle box...
has picked up their plastic handled plane, and tore the $hite out of the work with it,
before copping on it was the wrong plane they picked up!
Still wouldn't swap the tote out for a Veritas wrist breaker from the nicest of timber,
those are far more upsetting looking to me.
Jacob
New Luddism. Wake up and resist.
Nothing horrendous about them at all.
Sellers says "Stanley actually introduced a plastic handle in the late 60's that is extremely comfortable and was in fact unbreakable...."
Maybe later ones weren't so good.
Jarno
Established Member
I get sweaty hands from them, at least from the very shiny plastic handles, and I like the tactile feel of a wooden grip (removed the shiny, but cracking, varnish from all of mine, and applied a thin wipe-on poly).
My later Record 07 also has a plastic handle, but that sort of has a wood texture, somewhat better, IMHO.
My later Record 07 also has a plastic handle, but that sort of has a wood texture, somewhat better, IMHO.
I've never used one new enough to have a plastic handle.
A project one day if I ever get a seriously thick offcut would be to make a replacement plane handle out of tufnol or the like.
Unbreakable in use.
Hardwood is lovely but the design of a plane handle is inherently vulnerable to snapping in a couple of weak spots. The laminates ( epoxy + paper / cloth / glass ) have proven to be the most durable handles for knives and can be shaped and finely finished to whatever degree you choose. Too costly for mass produced planes but I'm surprised not to have seen someone trying them out on custom builds.
Unbreakable in use.
Hardwood is lovely but the design of a plane handle is inherently vulnerable to snapping in a couple of weak spots. The laminates ( epoxy + paper / cloth / glass ) have proven to be the most durable handles for knives and can be shaped and finely finished to whatever degree you choose. Too costly for mass produced planes but I'm surprised not to have seen someone trying them out on custom builds.
Max Power
Established Member
I'm astounded anyone would be fooled into thinking those brown plastic faux wood handles were actually rosewood
worn thumbs
Established Member
I have a No3 with wooden handles and a No4 with plastic handles,they both work well.Having worked with a variety of different Tufnols,I would confirm that it is a durable material but I wouldn't be in any hurry to make a plane handle from it.Would it attract much disdain from the traditionalists for having a plastic resin holding the cloth together?
Jarno
Established Member
The only way to break a wooden handle is to drop a plane, in normal use (not ape on meth use) I don't think you'll ever break one, especially since that nowadays, we use them for finer work.
But if you drop a plane, that's another matter, you'd also run the risk of cracking the cast iron too. Better to be careful with a precision tool.
