New band saw issue

[Melinda_dd]

I think I know what the answers are going to be but........

Bought a Clarke cbs 190 bandsaw yesterday .....this was due to budget and space we didn't go for a more pricey one.
Want to cut some 3mm vaneers from a 41mm square stock....
It won't cut a straight line!
I'm going through super slow
Tried 20mm pine... same problem
Tightened blade, put the guard down as low as possible. No better
The blade is the one it came with and is 6tpi

rubbish quality blade?
Any input would be great

 

[CHJ]

Might well be.

Presume you are cutting against a fence.

Can you follow a line free cutting?

 

[Melinda_dd]

Yes using a fence.... not sure on the following of line... presumed fence would be better to use
Tha blade is twisting as it's cutting and going off at an angle away from the fence

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Get a decent blade from Ian at Tuffsaws.

 

[blackrodd]

Are you using the wider, 12mm blade? Check the tracking. Is the blade hard against the pressure rollers,(behind the blade), each side of the two guide rollers? These shouldn't touch until the saw is cutting. Unplug the bandsaw and check by spinning the wheel freehand and follow the instructions for tracking and setting the guides. I would have though even a cheepo blade would have cut better than you have described. If not get a better wider, Tuffsaws type blade. I think 12mm is about as wide as you can get for the smaller saws. regards Rodders

 

[Steve Maskery]

It's called drift. 6TPI is a tad coarse for ripping, 3 or 4 would be better. Then set your machine up from scratch.
OK, Clarke is not the best brand on the market, but bandsaws are essentially simple machines and even that one should be capable of ripping 1" material well.
Ian sells the best blades around.
S

 

[wizard]

its the blade

 

[CHJ]

A good blade from Ian should cut without drift and not need any significant width to help guide it as can be seen in this shot taken this evening.

The blades Ian supplies me with have quite a good set on them and I find the increased kerf works well as far as dust clearance even a 10in depth in Elm which were done earlier today and is an advantage when cutting curves as well which this blade has been doing for some weeks now.

 

[Melinda_dd]

Wow. And I struggled with 1" dry pine!
Think I'll be giving tuffsaws a call tomorrow.
I'm a bit confused about the length of the blade too.

The instructions say 1425mm.... but google says 157? ... cant remember last digit .?
Even Clarkes replacement blade according to the web is the longer measurement.

 

[CHJ]

Wow. And I struggled with 1" dry pine!
Think I'll be giving tuffsaws a call tomorrow.
I'm a bit confused about the length of the blade too.

The instructions say 1425mm.... but google says 157? ... cant remember last digit .?
Even Clarkes replacement blade according to the web is the longer measurement.

Get the tape measure out.

Try a Sabrecut, Ian recommends for Green wood but they are my 'stay on the machine' choice.
The one in the pic. is a 3/8" x 3 TPI. A bit coarse for thinner stock but sharp enough to get away with.

 

[Dangermouse]

Sounds like your guides might need adjusting too.

 

[the beast]

check this out ! it might be handy for you. http://woodgears.ca/bandsaw/tuneup.html

really good site check all his other stuff out !

 

[custard]

Tell Ian the make of bandsaw and he'll tell you the length you need, don't try to second guess the answer use his (vast!) expertise.

 

[devonwoody]

My first check would be.

Put a flat piece of timber (with a square edge)on the saw bed with a good pencil line along its length 600mm.

Cut along this line free hand for 300mm keeping to the line.

use a pencil and keeping the timber still. no movement after making that first freehand cut, draw a pencil line along the fence side of timber.

Set the fence angle along that pencil line (undo any fence nuts that need to do that).

(and get that new blade as suggested)

100% guaranteed to work. (providing your bearings have been set properly and blade tension good)

 

[marcros]

My first check would be.

Put a flat piece of timber (with a square edge)on the saw bed with a good pencil line along its length 600mm.

Cut along this line free hand for 300mm keeping to the line.

use a pencil and keeping the timber still. no movement after making that first freehand cut, draw a pencil line along the fence side of timber.

Set the fence angle along that pencil line (undo any fence nuts that need to do that).

(and get that new blade as suggested)

100% guaranteed to work. (providing your bearings have been set properly and blade tension good)

or get a new blade then set it up properly from scratch so that you dont have to skew the fence!

Why these machines are sold with a 6tpi blade I dont know. They would get much better feedback if they were sold with a 3tpi. The first thing people tend to do is pick up a piece of 1" thick softwood and the 6tpi wanders all over the place. At least with a coarser blade the first question people would ask is how do i get a smoother cut, rather than why cant i cut straight.

 

[Melinda_dd]

Thanks everyone for your help.

I checked the guilds again (with fresh eyes... not stroppy ones!)
Adjusted them and it cuts much better. Still wanders a tad but not half as much.

I've also ordered a new blade from the very helpful tuffsaws too so hoping this will sort out my cutting problems.

Thanks again..... alway get the help I need from you guys

 

[Phil Pascoe]

Very good...but you should have ordered at least two!

 

[Melinda_dd]

Very good...but you should have ordered at least two!

Lol perhaps... but if the blades don't u sort it then its going back.... and I'd be left with them!

 

[nathandavies]

handy video

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wGbZqWac0jU

 

[devonwoody]

Melinda, did you get your bandsaw running OK?