New band saw issue

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Since last post I have received the new blade but haven't fitted it yet.... be flat out with the lurge!
But after fiddling with the blade guildes and tracking it is 100 times better.... with the crappy 6mm blade it came with.
I'm really pleased with it so with the new blade should be a great little machine hopefully!
 
+ 10 for Ian at Tuffsaws. I have a fairly hi end Axminster bandsaw which was unuseable with the standard and spare blades. I bought and have have used the bi-metal ones for a while and it is a different machine. I have been cutting a lot of 4mm veneers from hardwood and they are really straight. I have also made a hi fence from MDF and use a mag switch roller guide.The guides need to be adjusted as well as it wobbles a bit if there is any play in them.. Steve M's video is worth getting as well. Geoff
 
Finally got round to fitting the tuff saw blade recently. ...

Omg... like a hot knife through butter..
Completely transformed the performance of the saw.
Thanks for the recommendations guys
 
Another quick update. ... I can't praise these tuff saw blades enough. ...

I'm trying my first segmented turnings and today the saw with its tuff saw blade cut through 70mm sycamore and mahogany to make square blanks to round..... like a hot knife through butter!!

Just wanted to share!!
 
devonwoody":x7rfv39y said:
Worth the whole view, he does set is saw up a different way to what I have done over the years.
I found it curious that when discussing wheel alignment he says ignore the co-planar issue and stick to how the manufacturer's set it up, but then dictates how to run the blade on the wheel (gullet central, rather than blade central) which contradicts the instructions from my manufacturer's handbook.
 
As far as I'm concerned as long as the blade tracks correctly on the tyre, supported over the major part of its width without the teeth being damaged by contact with the metal of the wheel or visa versa teeth damaging the wheel then I can't see the point in worrying about the odd mm of lateral positioning.

The important thing surely is that the blade runs at right angles to the table without guides in contact and cuts without drift when correctly supported. I've only ever found this easy to achieve if both wheels run in the same plane.
 
I'm tempted to think that blade position is not too important in fact and that he opts for a blade setting that means the positions of the lateral guides do not need to change when fitting different blade sizes which is a distinct advantage especially as a demonstrator.

I also suspect that it is more important that the top and driven wheels are in parallel planes not necessarily coplanar. I run a 3 wheeler Startrite and the tracking is achieved with the tilt of the 3rd wheel.
 
CHJ":1xoqfbf5 said:
I can't see the point in worrying about the odd mm of lateral positioning.
In percentage terms it can be quite significant for wide blades.

However I'd agree that if the blade is running smoothly with no damage being done, all's well.
On my Startrite with the maximum sized blade, it's physically impossible to run the gullets on the centre of the wheel anyway.

However my point was the inherent contradictions of the demonstrator.
 
That bloke is like Paul Daniels ! How many times has he practiced those saw blade folding tricks ? very slick.
 

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