ColytonJohn
Member
It took a long search but I've finally replaced my life-expired Clarke CTS10 DIY table saw with a chunk of cast iron, induction motor and belt drive; I bought a Wadkin Tradesmen RT25.
I'd discounted anything with a brush motor, aluminium or sheet-steel tops and none of the modern Chinese saws gave me the confidence they'd last as well as old Wadkins are reputed to and this one simply oozes quality (in a heavy, industrial-metal kind of way).
Surprisingly it doesn't have a great depth of cut but I'll just have to manage with my band saw on those occasions I need more. It has a blade guard but the riving knife it mounts on is missing although I ought to be able to make one easily enough.
What is confounding me, however, is that it persists in blowing fuses on start up! The motor (a Rockwell) is plated at 8.8 amps at 240v, came fitted with a 13 amp plug and the seller assured me it worked well (couldn't actually test it due to no power in the barn it was stored in) but it should be OK.
I'm assuming the start-up current is the issue and, while I can wire in a dedicated 16a supply to my workshop, should I really have to? Everything spins smoothly so I don't think mechanical resistance in the drive-train bearings are at fault so I'm at a loss to understand this. Any thoughts?
Cheers,
John
I'd discounted anything with a brush motor, aluminium or sheet-steel tops and none of the modern Chinese saws gave me the confidence they'd last as well as old Wadkins are reputed to and this one simply oozes quality (in a heavy, industrial-metal kind of way).
Surprisingly it doesn't have a great depth of cut but I'll just have to manage with my band saw on those occasions I need more. It has a blade guard but the riving knife it mounts on is missing although I ought to be able to make one easily enough.
What is confounding me, however, is that it persists in blowing fuses on start up! The motor (a Rockwell) is plated at 8.8 amps at 240v, came fitted with a 13 amp plug and the seller assured me it worked well (couldn't actually test it due to no power in the barn it was stored in) but it should be OK.
I'm assuming the start-up current is the issue and, while I can wire in a dedicated 16a supply to my workshop, should I really have to? Everything spins smoothly so I don't think mechanical resistance in the drive-train bearings are at fault so I'm at a loss to understand this. Any thoughts?
Cheers,
John