Narrow stock on a spindle moulder

[RogerS]

How can I safely make some glazing bars on a spindle moulder?

I can mould one side as part of larger stock and then rip the moulded part away. But I can't see how to support the glazing bar to mould the other side safely?

Many thanks

 

[jasonB]

Cut a scrap piece of wood with a rebate in it to suit the O/A size of the moulding. Clamp this to the fence and just feed the moulding into the hole formed by the rebate/fence/table, using the next length to push the previous through, last length will need pulling out from the outfeed side.

Take it easy as if the moulding gets too small the cutter will just mash the lot up like putting very thin stock into a thicknesser

Jason

 

[Anonymous]

Shouldn't be a problem. I've done miles of glazing bars on a SM. My usual size is about 14mm x 44mm; typical victorian sizes, giving a glazing rebate 5x19mm, 5 x12.5mm moulding, and 12.5mm in the middle for the mortices and tenons.
Mouldings first - with the piece held fairly firm to the fence with homemade wooden springs. One side, and then the other. There is still 31.5mm of flat to press against the fence so no prob.
Then rebates ditto, but hold-ins and hold-downs need to be spot on as the surface bearing on the fence is reduced to the middle 12.5 mm. The hold-in needs to bear exactly and only on the middle 12.5mm so that the piece can't tilt.
Much easier and consistent perfect finish with a power feed of course.

cheers
Jacob

 

[Scrit]

There's a couple of ways to do this, but either way you should first apply a solid false fence of 6 to 9mm thick plywood or MDF to the front of your main fences and break through to provide extra support.

An alternative technique is to plane and thickness a board the same thickness as your glazing bar and up to 8in wide (as that will normally fit under most Shaw guards) and work the profile with the stock vertical and a wide pressure plate on the front of the Shaw guard. Work both sides then part off on the rip saw. Problem is this requires inverted profiles which are not normally a stock item, but has the advantage that no other auxilliary fences/supports are required and that there is much less liklihood of a smash-up. In other words almost every cutter manufacturer out there does it wrong! (not really.....) This is the technique I tend to use on veryu fragile timbers/delicate mouldings if running conventionally is smashing up too much

If the stock is backed by an adequate Shaw guard and a high cutter speed/lowish feed speed used there should be minimal break-up, although as Jason says with small stuff it's always a possibility

Scrit

 

[Anonymous]

Have I misunderstood the question or something? It's not that difficult believe me. I have done miles of fragile glazing bars on a SM without much difficulty - just with slightly modified hold-ins. And safely - with all guards in place.
I'll do a drawing when I have a moment.
It's surprising how a big SM can do very small work if required. It's all down to how you hold the stuff.
It can look a bit odd if you have a big 5HP machine with a 1HP power feed, set up to produce something like a 12x5mm cock beaded glazing bead, but it does a lovely job.

cheers
Jacob

 

[RogerS]

Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

Jacob..no, you've not got the wrong end of the stick and if you do get a moment, I'd welcome any sketches..particularly on cutting cock bead glazing bead...as I'd never even thought of doing it on the spindle moulder !

 

[Scrit]

Roger

Why is cock beading a problem? Run the stock through vertically to machine the bead then rip off on the table saw. Voila!

Scrit

 

[Anonymous]

Roger

Why is cock beading a problem? Run the stich through vertically to machine the bead then rip off on the table saw. Voila!

Scrit

Not practical if you have a lot to do - you'd also have to plane the new edges. Thats 3 different ops for each pass.
I've done jobs with say 15no 3x4pane sash windows which means 90 glazing bars. I'd plane them all to finished size first - then mould, then rebate. And the 120 stiles/rails at the same time at same set of the SM.
(PS Mortices and tenon cheeks before the above, but cutting/scribing shoulders last of all.)
Similarly with glazing bead although it can help if you do 2 together (e.g. mould opposite edges of a 32x5mm lath to make 2 @ 15x5) and then saw down the middle.
Just realised Roger has bought the axminster window cutters; mould and rebate in one pass. Perhaps too much for a thin glazing bar? In which case do it in 2 shallow passes per side.

cheers
Jacob

 

[RogerS]

Just realised Roger has bought the axminster window cutters; mould and rebate in one pass. Perhaps too much for a thin glazing bar? In which case do it in 2 shallow passes per side.

cheers
Jacob

That's right...and I can now see why you usually create our own. Not too convinced that the profile is that great.

Jacob - you mentioned that you use your bench grinder but how do you create small radiused cutting edges? Isn't the width of the wheel too great?

 

[Anonymous]

snip
Jacob - you mentioned that you use your bench grinder but how do you create small radiused cutting edges? Isn't the width of the wheel too great?

Roger
You buy 2 narrow wheels. I think mine are about 5mm. White grit. One you keep square and the other half round. Ditto with 2 about 12mm thick. Thats all you need, together with the more usual ones which will come with the grinder.

cheers
Jacob
(off now on me bike - may be some time!)

 

[Scrit]

Why is cock beading a problem? Run the stock through vertically to machine the bead then rip off on the table saw. Voila!

Not practical if you have a lot to do - you'd also have to plane the new edges. Thats 3 different ops for each pass.

I don't thinkj that's strictly true, Jacob. The technique I use is to rip using a "planer" rip blade, i.e. one with a good surface finish (mine's a 300mm 72T ATB). As the surface will need sanding in any case this type of blade will yield a good enough finish to go straight from saw to sanding, and involves less time on the planer/thickness as only the initial prep work is done there.

Just realised Roger has bought the axminster window cutters; mould and rebate in one pass. Perhaps too much for a thin glazing bar? In which case do it in 2 shallow passes per side.

Hence the suggestion to support the workpiece?

Scrit