mystery object? Its a Sash Fillister. No, a plough. Thanks

[Higon]

believed to be a wood working, er, implement. any ideas what it is please?

 

[condeesteso]

Sash fillister plane. Appears to be missing the 2 wedges that set the fence (pic 1, slots to side of guides), easy to re-make those from beech or box. Looks like a nice one.

 

[Plumberpete]

It's a plough plane, but as condeesteso says above, it is missing the two wedges that hold the stems in place.

These were usually sold with a set of irons numbered 1 - 8 that varied in size from (off the top of my head) 1/8" to 5/8"

Is there a maker's mark stamped on the front end?

 

[AndyT]

Like Pete said, a plough plane.

The irons are widely available and replacement wedges are easily made, so it looks like a decently made, useful tool.

If you need to see one in action, you could do worse than watch Roy Underhill, for example in this video where he compares wooden planes with modern iron ones from the 1880s. The plough is about 4:15 mins in.

http://video.unctv.org/video/2365021501/

 

[heimlaga]

Obviosly a plough plane. Though I think that the plane should be turned 180 degrees in relation to the fence. It now has the fence on the wrong side.

 

[JohnPW]

It looks in really clean condition, on the way home from a boot fair? :mrgreen:

 

[Higon]

thanks for that chaps!

It's also missing another couple of parts from comparison to online pics. The iron and wooden wedge being the main ones.

EDIT
SWMBO and MIL went back to the shop and found the wedge, possibly the two locking wedges and a couple of irons that might or might not fit... I'll find out later!

good video too.. thanks

Boot fair? no, they ambushed a poor antiques shop. No contest really...

 

[Higon]

It's a plough plane, but as condeesteso says above, it is missing the two wedges that hold the stems in place.

These were usually sold with a set of irons numbered 1 - 8 that varied in size from (off the top of my head) 1/8" to 5/8"

Is there a maker's mark stamped on the front end?

It all got a bit excited,

Useful info about the set of irons, thanks.

As you can tell, hand planes and I are complete strangers.

 

[AndyT]

The wedges for locking the arms should have a central sloping part and a semicircle at either end so they can be loosened without being separated from the plane.
The irons should be quite thick, tapered and with a groove on the back.

 

[Higon]

The wedges for locking the arms should have a central sloping part and a semicircle at either end so they can be loosened without being separated from the plane.
The irons should be quite thick, tapered and with a groove on the back.

hmm, looks like it might have been a result then.. the wedge looks right, maybe the locking wedges(?) I dont know about the irons.

 

[Cheshirechappie]

It's a plough plane.

Of the bits in the picture immediately above, the lower iron is definitely a fit (the v-groove in it's back fits to the v filed on the sloping front of the rear skate), and the wedges may do - only you can tell by matching them to the plane! The uppermost of the two irons (curly cutting edge, narrow straight stem with no sneck at the top end) isn't related to the plough.

Couple of points. In the original picture, the fence is on the wrong side of the body. The other point is that a full set of plough irons consists of eight sizes from 1/8" to 9/16" rising in 1/16" increments. They were often numbered from 1 to 8, 1 being the 1/8", and so on up to 8 being the 9/16". It's rather rare to find a plough with all it's irons, but seperates can be bought from Ebay or from good secondhand tool dealers.

 

[heimlaga]

To me that looks like the two wedges that lock the fence bars plus an unidentified wedge that has held the iron in place either in this plane or some other. The left iron is for a plough plane while the right iron would be very useful when making a profile plane...if you cannot find the profile plane it came from of cause.

 

[Higon]

A further question about this, looking at various pics all the irons seem to have a flat edge to the blade.

Any idea what sort of angle it should be before I try setting up the Tormek? 20 degrees sound right? This one has been butchered to an asymmetrical half round shape, looks like it was last sharpened with a Dremel.

 

[bugbear]

A further question about this, looking at various pics all the irons seem to have a flat edge to the blade.

Any idea what sort of angle it should be before I try setting up the Tormek? 20 degrees sound right? This one has been butchered to an asymmetrical half round shape, looks like it was last sharpened with a Dremel.

Just to confirm everything, can we have a photo of the botton - we've already seen the top.


BugBear

 

[matthewwh]

I'll bet they've got a moulding plane in there somewhere too.

Just needs an iron....

 

[AndyT]

A further question about this, looking at various pics all the irons seem to have a flat edge to the blade.

Any idea what sort of angle it should be before I try setting up the Tormek? 20 degrees sound right? This one has been butchered to an asymmetrical half round shape, looks like it was last sharpened with a Dremel.

I just went and picked out three plough irons at random. All are shown posed at 45° to the lines on the bench, as they would be in position in the plane. The angle for sharpening just needs to be acute enough for the edge to cut, while staying sharp for a reasonably long time. A single bevel is usual.

My sample shows angles of 20°, 25° and 30°. All of these will work.

Whether you can easily use a Tormek for a steeply tapering iron like one of these is another question.

 

[Higon]

I'll bet they've got a moulding plane in there somewhere too.

Just needs an iron....

lol... funnily enough...

 

[Higon]

A further question about this, looking at various pics all the irons seem to have a flat edge to the blade.

Any idea what sort of angle it should be before I try setting up the Tormek? 20 degrees sound right? This one has been butchered to an asymmetrical half round shape, looks like it was last sharpened with a Dremel.

I just went and picked out three plough irons at random. All are shown posed at 45° to the lines on the bench, as they would be in position in the plane. The angle for sharpening just needs to be acute enough for the edge to cut, while staying sharp for a reasonably long time. A single bevel is usual.

My sample shows angles of 20°, 25° and 30°. All of these will work.

Whether you can easily use a Tormek for a steeply tapering iron like one of these is another question.

Thanks for doing that Andy, most kind. There were various angles available on the example I have, depending on which part you examined! I settled for 25 as a start point and yes the tormek was happy enough, didn't take long at all despite the poor state of the previous grinds.

I even managed to mess some wood with it the wedges don't so I'll be fabricating some new ones but it cut nicely enough, just wandered a little...

 

[Vann]

Any idea what sort of angle it should be before I try setting up the Tormek? 20 degrees sound right?

Both Record and Stanley recommended a 35 degree single bevel for their metal plough plane cutters. I don't know if that's also applicable to wooden plough plane cutters.

Cheers, Vann.

 

[AndyT]

Any idea what sort of angle it should be before I try setting up the Tormek? 20 degrees sound right?

Both Record and Stanley recommended a 35 degree single bevel for their metal plough plane cutters. I don't know if that's also applicable to wooden plough plane cutters.

Cheers, Vann.

Vann, I think that wooden plough cutters can be sharpened to a more acute angle as there is so much more metal behind the edge.