My new old Wadkin 10 AGS

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Thanks Trevanion.

Gold and blue just popped into my head at 4am one morning. I'd already purchased dark green and silver paint at that point too. Glad I went with the gold and blue though or it might have looked like a Record Power. :D

Re bearings. I guess at 2hp it won't make a huge difference but you'd be surprised at the increased current draw on smaller motors when using 2rs bearings over zz. There is also the issue that the rubber seals generate more heat too. Again, probably not an issue here but if a job's worth doing....

Great resto :)
If you haven't checked allready, the wobble in the blade is probably due to the arbor flanges.
Give these a quick lick for about 20 seconds on a surface plate to take off crud and hopefully reveal
bright metal on the very perimeter of the flanges only.

Thanks Ttrees,

The arbour flange got a tickle in the lathe at work. I'll run the front flange over the surface plate as you suggest and see if I get any improvement.

The blades that came with the saw are pretty ropey though. They were pretty rusty with a lot of chipped teeth and none particularly sharp. Looks like they had a hard life.

I was under the impression that many saws have a concave profile to them, touching around the edges and compressed flat when tightened somewhat.
I was thinking your blades might not have been that bad.

Good luck with the saw :D
On new blades, I prefer CMT blades as I think you get better and larger carbide and a more robust saw plate with them than you do with Freud and I believe I get a better running life. Nothing wrong with a Freud blade either, whatever high-quality blade you put into the machine will be better than the ones supplied.
Dave, I hear you, following with interest, and will get on to the riving knife trace tomorrow.

Incidentally I found some RKs that should work with the AGS10 for over--the-blade cutting (with an alternate guard fitted of course). This isn't necessarily the exact one you need, I've not checked the length and your blade thickness may differ but they make a good range.


Looking at the picture of the finished saw in its new livery makes me think I could find space for one of these. It would have to be front and centre in my shop though, which would make it close to the garage door. No problem really. I would just have to watch out for light rust on any exposed metal.

I am a bit old now to go down that road, but it must be nice to look at the machine and know it's always ready for some serious work. I would have retained the grey paint myself, or maybe gone for Wadkin green. But hey, it's your saw and I hope you get as much satisfaction from using it as you obviously did from the restoration.

Best of luck

John (hammer)
As promised, here is the scan of the old style splitter (riving knife), with some dimensions that
should allow you to make a copy. If you print it full size on A4 paper it should be very close.

The holes and slots are for the original Wadkin crown guard, which is a moderately complex thing, fitting in two positions. You may be using something different. The funny shaped large slot at the bottom is to adjust angle of the splitter. Though it does not rise and fall with the blade, the slot allows you to get a close fit at any blade height.

Looks like ground steel gauge plate ( try Cromwell). Mine is 2 mm thick which suits the blades I have, including a Freud thin kerf ripping blade.
Good luck


View attachment splitter2.pdf


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I get my O1 Gauge Plate from as they're cheaper than anywhere else even after carriage. They've also got quite a good stock of silver steel in 2M lengths which is what I mostly buy from them.

They've also got a very good knifemaking supply shop if that interests anyone. Some very exotic steels, titaniums and supplies there.
Thanks everybody for your kind comments so far.

MusicMan, you sir are a star.

I'll see if I can get that drawn up tout suite and laser cut.

I have some 6mm clear polycarbonate which I'll be working into a crown guard with a bit of 3d printed ABS section for a dust extraction port. I also plan on some encapsulation around the blade under the table (replacing the chip deflector) with another port for dust extraction.

If all goes to plan there should be very little mess when cutting. Not like the old days. I'm sure I read on a post here where someone said that dust extraction back then was an apprentice with a shovel. :D
Steve Maskery":29mdfe3w said:
I hope you get a great deal of pleasure out of your nice new Scheppach :)

You might be onto something Steve :shock:

I like the way you have set up your DTI in your mitre slot. That's better than the way I've been doing mine. I had a fettle of mine just last week actually. I don't know how it happened but it was 10 thou out over the blade. I got it down to two and was happy with that, it's half a hair. So if you have it down to one, then most very excellent.
Thanks Steve,

The 3/4 parallel was borrowed from work and had to be returned. I've ordered a 2ft length of 3/4 key steel to use in the future. Being key steel it should be dimensionally accurate and the long length should help with stability in the slot.

The key steel was ordered from ebay. About £7/ft, sold in 1 ft lengths but I asked if they could supply in longer lengths and it was not a problem.

Will be ordering 2 more lengths of 3/4 by 3/8 as runners for a cross cut sled.
I'm no engineer, but my understanding is that brass on steel is much better, friction-wise, than steel on steel. I don't suppose it will be as cheap, mind.

Cast iron is considered self lubricating to an extent because of the graphite content. Add in some ptfe lubricant for good measure and I can't see it being an issue.


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