My first plane restoration

[alan2001]

Nice job! How did you remove the pin of the adjustment thumbwheel?

I'm not sure what you mean - the brass one? It just unscrews, there's no pins involved.

Pete - I'm not very good at identifying types of wood, so maybe you can tell me?

The handle has come up beatifully just by scraping the varnish off with my thumbnails. So I keep changing my mind about whether to replace them or not. I'll probably keep an eye out on ebay as suggested though - a set of those cocobolo ones would be rather nice. :wink:

 

[AndyT]

I'd say that was stained beech. Perfectly good choice. I'd just put bolied linseed oil on it, as many times as I could be bothered. It's the feel of it in your hands that matters more than the appearance.

 

[gounthar]

Nice job! How did you remove the pin of the adjustment thumbwheel?

I'm not sure what you mean - the brass one? It just unscrews, there's no pins involved.

My bad... On mine, I can't unscrew it all the way, the lever it is connected to has to be de-pinned to remove the wheel.
Anyway, nice job! =D>

 

[Racers]

Hi, Alan

The wood looks lighter where the chip is so I think its beech.

I leave mine un-varnished now couple of coats of Danish oil then wax, feels nice.

Pete

 

[jimi43]

I think it is stained beech too...

For finish...I recommend (people are getting fed up with this!) Tru-Oil

It's used on Purdey gunstocks and has a silky feel to it that makes you want to "fondle" the handle it's that tactile.

You can get a small bottle on FleaBay...it goes a LONG way! It's wipe on so nothing complicated there and you can put coat after coat after coat and it doesn't chip or do nothing other than protect the wood and look and feel superb!

Jimi

 

[alan2001]

That Tru Oil sounds nice... one wee bottle ordered. :wink: Thanks for the tip Jim.

I haven't done much more to the handle, it didn't seem to need much and I think I'll just give it a fine sanding before oiling it. But I would like some advice on the knob, please. As you can see, I've removed all the varnish and given it a pretty thorough sanding with various grades of sandpaper - all done with the knob bolted to a power drill in a vice, which worked really well. However, it's still covered with rough bits. I don't even know how to describe this except perhaps as open bits of end grain??? Anyway, should I persevere trying to sand them smooth or should I just give it up and leave it as is?

I know it's probably down to personal taste, I'm just wondering if attempting to remove these bits is futile.

Also, can anyone explain the difference in the darkness of each item?

Progess so far on "THE LABEL":

Thanks for any advice, as always. 8)

 

[AndyT]

Try this experiment: hold the knob in your hand. Can you feel the little tiny flecks? If not, apply oil and get the plane back in use.
If you can, check underneath your six mattresses for a pea!!

Seriously though, they are a natural feature of the wood. The oil will fill them up.

 

[alan2001]

check underneath your six mattresses for a pea!!

Ahah! :mrgreen: Yes, I know I'm being a bit of a perfectionist now. It feels completely smooth, and it was all in completely acceptable working order a week ago, I'm just curious why those holes are there, what they're called, and whether they can be removed? No big deal. (Honestly!) (hammer)


[BTW: "hold the knob in your hand. Can you feel the little tiny flecks?" - Had to check I was in the right forum there. :wink:]

 

[Setch]

If you want to fill the pores, wet sand with the rtu-oil, it'll create a slurry which fills them right up.

 

[alan2001]

After looking at some other photos, such as this beautiful rosewood from jimi:

... I don't think there's any need to fill them up. I don't know if I mentioned that I'm new to this woodworking game, if it isn't bleeding obvious to everyone yet :mrgreen: , so I'd just like to understand why they're there etc. Thanks folks.

It would also be good to have some theories on why both items are such a different colour?

 

[Setch]

wood is a vascular structure, and when you cut through it, you reveal the ends of the long fibres, and the gaps between them. Sanding never makes them go away, as when you sand away the surface you are constantly revealing more gaps. The frequency, size and shape of the pores varies from species to species and piece to piece.

 

[alan2001]

Ahhhh... the word "pore" is what I was looking for. Thanks very much, I now have some reading to do. Such as:

http://www.antiquerestorers.com/Articles/SAL/filpore.htm

My lack of basic knowledge continues to amaze me.

BTW I have no intention of filling the pores, now I understand things a bit better. However, I continue to be confused as to why the knob and handle are so different; the knob is full of pores but the handle has almost none...?

 

[jimi43]

If you want to get really into the finishing of the handles...start with cellulose sanding sealer (Axminster sell it) and wipe that on. Let it go hard and then sand that off using progressively finer grits.

I use Abranet 120 to 400 then move to 3M Micromesh 1500 mesh to 12000 mesh to get the required finish and then hit it with the Tru-Oil...let it set overnight and then repeat the 3M stage only.

But really....for these handles all you have to do is use the Tru-Oil and the above abrasive regime.

I quite like to see the grain...it's part of the character of the wood....but to give you some idea of how bonkers you can go with Tru-Oil...this was a refinish of a Les Paul copy...(bit of a waste IMHO...but there you go...) which took so many layers and rub downs and layers and .....

...if you want gloss that is!

Alternatively, Tru-Oil does "silky" as well...with some fine wire wool finishing....

Either way it doesn't feel "plastic" like polyurethanes do.

Jim

 

[alan2001]

I received my Micromesh as recommended by Jim, and here's the progress so far on the knob. Pictures definitely don't do it justice, it's gleaming! And you can literally see my reflection in it!

BEFORE:

AFTER:

I reckon it's good enough for now... dunno if Tru-Oil will improve it, what do you think?

The handle is going to be rather more time-consuming. Better get on with it. :wink:

 

[jimi43]

That is definitely rosewood...through and through and if you get it to that 12000 mesh level you only really need to put beeswax on it.

Tru Oil will protect it though...I would do a couple of coats...1 hour between each...let dry 24 hours...then micromesh gently again...and wax it.

Nice job mate

Jim

 

[alan2001]

"Final" pictures! And when I say "final", I really mean "good enough for now until I do something else to it".






Thanks for all the advice, folks, it's been a great help. The Tru-Oil is indeed lovely stuff, Jim!

Can anyone advise if the handle is beech or... what?

By the way, there's another car show at Eglinton Country Park tomorrow, which is where I got this plane from a car-booter (£5, you may remember. :mrgreen: ) I wonder if the same guy's back again, with a rusty number 4 and a block plane? If so, I'll definitely be having a proper look through his box. :mrgreen:

 

[jimi43]

Forget for a moment that this is your first restoration...you have done a superb job by any standard and for the first attempt...well...outstanding!

The rear handle is stained (was) beech...so it is either a replacement or the front one is. I would just get a new handle from FleaBay...make sure you get the right size to fit this plane though...they are all different.

Yes...Tru-Oil is my first choice by far for almost every finish...particularly anything that his touched.

I am just restoring another No.5 1/2 Record...I got some Hammerite Dark Blue in a spray can and it is far easier that way. Will post some pictures when I finish it.

Bravo mate! You should be really proud! =D>

Cheers

Jim

 

[Scouse]

That really is a thing of beauty Alan, well done!

 

[alan2001]

Awww, thanks guys. I'm really pleased with it myself; it's been a labour of love and one of the most satisfying things I've ever done (in my shed )

According to http://www.recordhandplanes.com/dating.html, it's almost definitely a 1957 model, so it would have been born with a beech knob and handle:

Rosewood was used for the handle and knob until WW2. Post-war production used dark stained beech until 1998 when resistant resin (plastic) replaced wood handle and knob afterwards. Prior to the early 1950's all bench, block and side rebate plane and the cutter iron wedge on the 1366 were listed as selected rosewood. Thereafter they were listed as selected hardwood which was beech stained and lacquered dark brown. However, it is likely that beech was used from the beginning of WW2 as rosewood became difficult to obtain due to war-time restrictions.

So it looks like a previous owner has had a problem with his knob and replaced it at some point in time. It's completely impossible to type those words without some of the more immature members of the audience sniggering. Let's have some decorum please, especially you lot at the back. (hammer) :mrgreen:

I'm just going to keep it as is - this plane has had a life, and the replacement is part of that story. It works well and looks nice, so why fix it if it ain't broke? I can't believe I'm getting soppy about a plane... time for bed soon, haha.
[By the way, tomorrow's car show has been cancelled. Dammit!]

 

[rocksteadyeddy]

Good job, very tidy! =D> =D>

Edd