Mitre saws

[sqwheezle]

I'm trying to use hand tools as much as possible. Can anyone tell me what advantage a powered mitre saw has over muscle driven one? Speed is obvious but after that...

I'd appreciate some advice on which manual saw to buy.

 

[shipbadger]

sqwheezle

I bought the Screwfix mitre saw (under whatever brand name they were using at the time) and lacking a powered saw to compare it with was quite pleased with it. Some practice was needed to get any degree of accuracy, you can't rely on the framework without carefully checking as the 'flaps' that rub against the blade allow a degree of flopping about. Now I have a Perform mitre saw and haven't used the hand powered version for so long that the blade has gone rusty. So to summarise, the hand powered mitre saw is better than nothing (especially as they're fairly cheap) but a powered saw should give repeatable accuracy as well the ability to cut non-ferrous metals more easily (with the correct blade) if you wish.

Tony Comber

 

[cambournepete]

I've got two Nobex champion mitre saws.
It's so much better than the Richmond (?) thing I had before.
There's also a choice of blades depending on whether you want a quick rough cut or a fine finish.
I've cut 6x6" pine quite easily on it - try finding a power mitre saw that will do that!

 

[Henning]

I have a Nobex and also a Makita powered one.
The Nobex is most definitely the more accurate of the two, and my goto- saw for crown moulding for instance. (DIY though, not pro)
I'd say i use the Nobex most of the two, not least due to the accuracy.
If i had to choose, i'd choose the Nobex.

 

[Carlow52]

The one advantage I see in a powered version, with a sharp TCT blade, is the ability to take a shave off the work piece, or correct the final angle from say 45 to 44 or 47 depending on the onsite conditions.
The above applies to site work for mouldings, skirting, dado rails etc