Maybe I won't be buying mortice chisels...

[HRRLutherie]

I found an interesting link that showed that cutting mortices with ordinary bevel edged chisels is quicker and neater: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q_NXq7_TILA

 

[Phil Pascoe]

#-o Here we go again! #-o

 

[Racers]

I've gone even further, I sharpen screwdrivers on the step out side and bash them with a brick :shock:

Pete

 

[Jacob]

Yes , Paul Sellers is very reliable and practical though I haven't tried his mortice technique.
He causes a lot of alarm in certain amateur woodworking circles so he must be good!

 

[Peter T]

I'm guessing anything would be quicker and neater than that dreadful excuse for a mortice chisel, with the wrong primary bevel angle!

 

[Jacob]

I'm guessing anything would be quicker and neater than that dreadful excuse for a mortice chisel, with the wrong primary bevel angle!

Er, what is a 'wrong primary bevel angle'?

 

[bugbear]

BugBear

 

[speeder1987]

BugBear

:grin:

Sent from my GT-N7000 using Tapatalk 2

 

[Fromey]

I'm sure it can be done both ways. In fact, he showed that it can and I've done it myself. However, I thought one of the design reasons behind mortising chisels was their thickness. Yes, it makes them more robust and avoids bending, as Paul Sellers warns about, but it helps register the chisel against the walls of the growing mortice, preventing your chisel accidentally twisting. Normally I don't cut a mortice with an unyielding and proud sheet of glass helping to guide my chisel....

 

[Webby]

I've gone even further, I sharpen screwdrivers on the step out side and bash them with a brick :shock:

Pete

lol Pete
what grit grade is the step and what is the weight of the brick

is the screwdriver a pozi drive :?: or straight bladed :wink:

i will get my coat

 

[Jacob]

I'm sure it can be done both ways. In fact, he showed that it can and I've done it myself. However, I thought one of the design reasons behind mortising chisels was their thickness. Yes, it makes them more robust and avoids bending, as Paul Sellers warns about, but it helps register the chisel against the walls of the growing mortice, preventing your chisel accidentally twisting. Normally I don't cut a mortice with an unyielding and proud sheet of glass helping to guide my chisel....

The main point behind the OBM is sheer strength. It's a hand tool for fast production work done by people working against the clock. A bevel edged chisel wouldn't survive this, but is fine for an amateur woodworker pottering about with small furniture stuff.
HRRLutherie - you may not have realised that Paul Sellers is an apostate and promoting him amounts to heresy amongst the amateur woodworking brethren, as you see! :lol: :lol:
They have picked up strange rigid orthodox views especially re sharpening. It's not always clear why, or where they get their ideas from. Doesn't do em any good either way, they'd do better to follow Paul Sellers into the promised land!

 

[Peter T]

I'm guessing anything would be quicker and neater than that dreadful excuse for a mortice chisel, with the wrong primary bevel angle!

Er, what is a 'wrong primary bevel angle'?

The primary bevel on the mortice chisel should be 20 degrees or less. That one look more like 30 degrees.

Also it looks like the sides of the chisel may be parallel, which is not good as the chisel tends to jam in the mortise.

 

[Jacob]

I'm guessing anything would be quicker and neater than that dreadful excuse for a mortice chisel, with the wrong primary bevel angle!

Er, what is a 'wrong primary bevel angle'?

The primary bevel on the mortice chisel should be 20 degrees or less.

Who says? He's wrong whoever it is.

That one look more like 30 degrees.

30º is fine for a thin bevel edge chisel. I haven't looked closely but I guess it'll be a convex* bevel with an edge about 30º and the bevel falling away indeterminately.
*Apologies to the brethren for upsetting them with another bit of heresy! They need to get out more.

 

[Robert]

Cutting several big, 1 1/2"*8 through 7" larch that wasn't being helpful, I wished for a robust mortice chisel. The fimer I used did not fare well and I had blisters from the job for some time. I like the guide that the sides give. The mortice chisels in my kit have only the edge square and taper from there, probably after the steel lamination, and appear to have been made that way. The blade has to penetrate the wood. I doubt that the 20° angle would be good at that especially in hard wood.
On small stuff I use what comes to hand, ie. is sharp and the right size.

Robert

 

[Peter T]

Ray Iles mortise chisels come with a 20 degree primary bevel and a 35 degree secondary to prevent the edge from crumbling.

These work very well in hardwood!

 

[Fromey]

The main point behind the OBM is sheer strength. It's a hand tool for fast production work done by people working against the clock. A bevel edged chisel wouldn't survive this, but is fine for an amateur woodworker pottering about with small furniture stuff.

That sounds eminently reasonable. The amateur woodworker is indeed a different beast to the past/present professional. For one thing, they have time/inclination to sharpen using guides (hammer)

 

[Jacob]

Ray Iles mortise chisels come with a 20 degree primary bevel and a 35 degree secondary to prevent the edge from crumbling.

These work very well in hardwood!

Fair enough but there isn't a fixed rule. If it works it's OK. A rounded bevel is common - this makes levering out easier, from the bottom/edge of the hole

 

[Phil Pascoe]

#-o Here we go again! #-o

See! ......I told you!

 

[Lons]

#-o Here we go again! #-o

See! ......I told you!

Yep :lol: :lol:

And the only 100% undisputable post on this thread :wink: even Jacob can't argue with that - or maybe...............? #-o

 

[SBJ]

When I was at college, all the mortise chisels had rounded bevels. I haven't used one since though. We were also taught that method for chopping mortises, except we left a bit at each end to lever against if necessary which was cleaned out as the last part of the process.