Making a window with basic tools (lots of pics)

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JFC":cftaqjok said:
Pressure treated timber isn't used because its not joinery grade timber . If you plane a peice up you will see what i mean .

Sorry, I wasn't clear on what I meant.

I didn't mean to refer to the 'fencing-grade' pressure-treated timber you can buy off the shelf. I actually meant to suggest cutting the cills, jambs, etc. out joinery timber and having that pressure-treated after all the machining is done.
 
Then you will be making something square and in wind and filling it full of moisture ........ boing ...... all your hard work at the clamping stage gone up the spout . I suppose you could treat it with some kind of timber preserve but thats what paint is isn't it ? As i said before i'm not the best to ask about finishes , maybe someone else has some input ?
 
JFC":25ifwht7 said:
I use a belt sander to clean up but a hand plane or sanding by hand can be used , it just isn't as quick .

Thank you JFC

A tool that is not connected to a battery or a cord???....I know only one...clamps :)

niki
 
nice one jason, see the workshop is still a little how can i say it, "comfortable" :lol:

thanks for a helpful set of instructions.

paul :wink:
 
Hi Jason,

Nice work. Where did you get the beading snips from. Are they any good?

Cheers

Mark
 
I got the beading shears from the D and M trade show but i have just called them and they said they don't sell them . Thats not to say they don't it just means the person i spoke to doesn't know what i'm talking about :lol: I think they are great and very quick to use , you can get some slipping on thicker beading but its still a fast way to do beading .
Glad you all like the thread :D
 
Hi Mark,

The guys on the Bessey stand used to have them on sale, though I'm not sure if they still do them in their range. (They aren't a Bessey product)Here's the details.

Cheers,
Andy

LJ Hydleman and Co Ltd
Marton Street
Skipton
BD23 1TF
Tel: 01756 798625
www.hydleman.co.uk
 
Not sure if Jason got the same ones as I reviewed, but they had a set of interhangeable heads, one does a swivel mitre for different angles, the other for shearing plastic pipes that plumbers use. Certainly an upgrade of the simple 45/45 degree ones I bought and used for gaskets on glazing for many a year, so a bargain at twenty quid!

Andy
 
Yup thats the ones . Bargin untill i bought some clamps aswell :lol:
 
Hanging the top opener .

I normally leave 75mm from the edge for the hinge but because this is a small window 65mm looked better . So draw around the hinge and chop out the out line and then cut the depth as on the left .

DSC00374.jpg


Once cut in line up your opener so the gaps at the sides are even and mark off the sides of the hinges on your frame .

DSC00376.jpg


Line up a spare hinge with your marks and your ready to cut out the frame side .


DSC00377.jpg



I use a hole center finder to predrill the screw holes .They are quite cheap and actually work :shock:

DSC00378.jpg



Now your ready to hang the opener , you close it for the first time and it doesn't shut .


DSC00380.jpg



Don't worry and don't go chopping more out of the hinges just yet [-X
The leading edge will probably need taking off . Look at the big gap at the top and the bottom is hitting but i know that the gaps where ok from shooting in the window as shown above . Plus the gap from the outside of the window look fine .

DSC00379.jpg
 
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