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thomaskennedy

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well, i went to get some reclaimed mahogany a couple of weeks ago (they came from a leather tanning place :?: ) i only bought 3 pieces cos they were really heavy

2 at 2 3/4" x 8" x 9ft
1 at 2 3/4" x 4" x 10ft

as you would expect my little b&q chop saw didn't take either boards :p so i cut them in to "managable" pieces with a circular saw!
then i resawed the 4" wide boards on the T/S :? .....i had to pass it through twice :? 'twas quite scary! but i did it in the end...looks v nice but i now have to wait around 4 weeks 'till i get my P/T :(
never mind!

while im here im gonna ask a qustion (yet again :p )
i'm gonna buy some veneered boards but im scared that my T/S will tear the veneer? will it? im not sure but on NYW it doesnt but on Cutting Edge they use a scoring blade on their T/S ??

Cheers

Tom
 

Dewy

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I think you'll find that good old Norm uses a blade that scores the veneer before the main teeth of the blade. He has often said about using speciality blades for cutting veneers or melamine coated chipboard.
Another way, if you have the finished size, is to score the veneer with a utility knife (Stanley knife) accurately before sawing. This prevents the breakout.
 
A

Anonymous

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Hi Thomas

Nice buy :D

I too was concerned about this
I have a 'triple cut' blade. Every third tooth is ground to a thin cutting edge in the centre of the blade and the tip of these teeth is slightly higher than the other 'normal' offset teeth. Blade is 8" with 60 teeth!!

It is designed to cut vereered boards on saws without a scoring blade

Works very nicely when cutting Ash veneered MDF.

I got my blade from Oswald cox in Leicester 01162517378 and they can resharpen and retension it for you when the need arrises

Cheers

Tony
 

Philly

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Thomas,
One trick to try is to lower the blade so only 3mm or so is showing, run the venneered board over, raise the blade high enough to cut the board, flip the board end for end so the cut side is up and run it through. This in effect is like having a scoring blade on your table saw. I've tried it and it does work ( though it is more work :shock: ).
Of course, this will only work if the riving knife on your saw is level or lower than the top of the saw blade. And you will have to remove the guard-so extreme caution is required :!:
hope this is of help,
Philly
 

johnelliott

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thomaskennedy":a680xr3a said:
i'm gonna buy some veneered boards but im scared that my T/S will tear the veneer? will it? im not sure but on NYW it doesnt but on Cutting Edge they use a scoring blade on their T/S ??
Another tip to add to the others above, is to apply some masking tape firmly to the underside of the cut
John
ps had a look at your website, that side table is too cheap, much too cheap
 

thomaskennedy

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johnelliott":3pde1sij said:
ps had a look at your website, that side table is too cheap, much too cheap
:oops: im just scared of people thinking..."wwoohhh thats waayyy too expensive!" i might add a bit on :p i got everything for that table for around £50! so i suppose £15 isnt much profit :p

Tom

ps. the masking idea seems the easiest so im probs. gonna do that! tanks john!
 

thomaskennedy

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as promised :p i did it whilst in a boring lesson hence the lined paper :p :p naughty me!

btw i got top of the class in my resistant materials (technology) exam!! WOOO go me :p :p

the little lines to the left are for dvd's and t.v goes ontop, dvd player etc go on the three shelves! i thinked up this all by my self :eek:

 

johnelliott

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For a table like that in hardwood, think £200. Cost your time at say £15 an hour and the price will seem reasonable. People are not offered quality hardwood items, and have no reference to judge to value by, other than the price. Ask more and they will realise that it is worth more. They may not buy it, but they will realise that it is something of value
 

thomaskennedy

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well i got some beech from british hardwoods!very very nice people! and then i got some veneered beech boards...only manages to glue up the top and cut it to size today! looks like a long day tommorow!

Tom
 
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