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Machining radius’s

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andys wood shed

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I need to machine a large quantity of 30mm radius’s on 44x19 PAR redwood
DBC05BFF-AED8-49A7-81A5-D51B6AAB0D0C.jpeg3976D8FB-6B2E-42A2-8C2D-57CC263177EE.jpeg
Currently the wife is cutting them on the band saw
One thought Ive had is to make a jig (with anti squelch block) ganging them together to fit onto the sliding table on the spindle moulder and use
48BDBCF3-BD48-461C-8AA6-BAD7BA0ED0A4.jpeg
These cutters (like cutting a tenon)
anybody have experienced cutting end grain like this?

Also anybody got any other suggestions please
 

marcros

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I have never used a spindle moulder but is there an equivalent of a bearing guided template bit like you could get for a router?
 

Doug71

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Never done that exact operation myself but as you say it's only like cutting a tenon so should be fine, as long as you know what you are doing on a spindle moulder!

I cant think of a quicker way, I remember Trevanion on here gang cutting the horns on some sashes in a similar way, sure he will be along at some point to comment.
 

toolsntat

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With appropriate set up, sharp cutters and positive feed rate the spindle should do a wonderful job with little need for further surface treatment. It will be important to stay on top of cutter sharpness.
If it's necessary to have a sanded finish you could look into doing it as one pass on a vertical linisher with a slide and pivot jig. This is dependent on the overall length of the item being worked.
Cheers Andy
 

SkinnyB

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Spindle moulder would be the tool of choice for me for high quantity. If I had not a huge amount to so maybe a disc/belt sander with a radius/pivot jig.
 

Trevanion

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I cant think of a quicker way, I remember Trevanion on here gang cutting the horns on some sashes in a similar way, sure he will be along at some point to comment.
Did somebody say spindle moulder? 🧐

What Doug mentions there is cross-grain work rather than end-grain work but the principles are pretty much exactly the same, just make sure your jig is properly made with a spelch block and stout enough for the task, as the late, great Roy Sutton would say "A lash-up won't do!".
 

andys wood shed

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Did somebody say spindle moulder? 🧐

What Doug mentions there is cross-grain work rather than end-grain work but the principles are pretty much exactly the same, just make sure your jig is properly made with a spelch block and stout enough for the task, as the late, great Roy Sutton would say "A lash-up won't do!".
Thank you
 

andys wood shed

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Spindle moulder would be the tool of choice for me for high quantity. If I had not a huge amount to so maybe a disc/belt sander with a radius/pivot jig.
200 per day
the wife will be pleased to find a quicker way 👍
 

andys wood shed

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With appropriate set up, sharp cutters and positive feed rate the spindle should do a wonderful job with little need for further surface treatment. It will be important to stay on top of cutter sharpness.
If it's necessary to have a sanded finish you could look into doing it as one pass on a vertical linisher with a slide and pivot jig. This is dependent on the overall length of the item being worked.
Cheers Andy
Thank you
 

andys wood shed

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As an alternative to using HHS euro profile cutters in a standard block does anyone know of a solid carbide replaceable cutter head with a 30mm radius
 

Trevanion

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No idea where you'd get a 30mm radius block, but Whitehill may be able to supply TCT knives to fit a euro block but they won't be cheap. Although, you really don't want carbide for softwood, Sharp HSS trumps in almost every regard when it comes to softwoods.
 

andys wood shed

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No idea where you'd get a 30mm radius block, but Whitehill may be able to supply TCT knives to fit a euro block but they won't be cheap. Although, you really don't want carbide for softwood, Sharp HSS trumps in almost every regard when it comes to softwoods.
Thank you
All my work on the spindle is done with TCT cutters
so how do you keep HSS euro cutters sharp ?
give them a quick rub on a DMT stone on the top flat face until its time to send them off for a regrind
 

Trevanion

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so how do you keep HSS euro cutters sharp ?
I tend to lightly touch them up on the grinder occasionally if the profile isn't critical or too complex, basically if I can't do it with a 1/4" wheel I won't. I know people who use surface grinders with a magnet chuck to grind the cutting face of the knives back to a sharp surface which works well for those more complex profiles.
 
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