heronviewer
Established Member
I'm interested in this and have been looking on Thingiverse. The search function doesn't seem to work and there are hundreds of items. What page are they listed on ?
Kity 636
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heronviewer
Established Member
Thank you. ,
Does the one not do both functions ? The original just reverses to serve both thicknessing and planing.
Does the one not do both functions ? The original just reverses to serve both thicknessing and planing.
No, the one for planing has to fit under the machine and sit on the thicknesser bed to pick up chips as they come out underneath the cutterblock.
The one for thicknessing has to sit on top of the cutterblock and also has a cutout to allow the wheel which is used to raise and lower the thicknesser bed.
There are some photos on the pages with photos of each in position and you can see what I mean
heronviewer
Established Member
Thanks Yes, I saw that feature. The original doesn't have the cutout, so the wheel has to be removed to fit the hood, and then be refitted . That's a pity - I shall stick with my homemade wooden hood that can be reversed despite it's inside corners (that catch chips)
Dare I ask what they charged for printing the chutes?
Well... I don't have the final price yet, but the estimate was £55 for both the planer port (30) and the thicknesser port (£25). He also printed the knob for the outfeed table I designed which I am expecting to be about £5 max.
The bloke reccomended using PETG - I took his advice as ovbiously I know nothing about 3D printing. He has sent me photos of the progress and it looks good! The last part is printing as I write this and I am hopeful to recieve them by the weekend.
Let me know if you want his details if it's something your interested in
FlatlandsF7a
Probably in the shed. Probably cold.
I have printed these parts out myself using regular ABS, and they work pretty well (I have no idea about PETG other than I can't print it with my printer!).
Between those two items, and a 100mm cyclone separator I was able to print, I was able to buy a second hand printer on ebay and save money! It's also led me to creating a lot of magnetic connectors for dust hoses, which are fantastic as I'm in a small shop, and have to move things around a lot!
So yeah, +1 for 3D printing!
I edited this reply as I realised after posting that you meant that you had printed the exact ones I am talking about and linked earlier.
How well do you find they perform?
Annoyingly I am going to have to step them down to 50mm as 50mm is the largest hose I can use with my cyclone separator. One day I hope to have room for a 100mm set up but for the forseable future I have to make do with 50mm. It was moderately effective on my old planer (which was a cheapo titan screwfix job) but I don't think it had a particularly extraction friendly design.
I will step up my 50mm to 100mm at the port and I look forwards to seeing whether it performs adequately
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rogxwhit
Established Member
I can't imagine 50mm working on a planer - even one with such dinky shavings (owing to the small cutting circle) as the 636. But go on - prove me wrong.
FlatlandsF7a
Probably in the shed. Probably cold.
Yeah, I've got to agree with @rogxwhit on the strong down to 50mm, that sounds a big ask!
They work pretty well, although are a bit lightweight compared to what you might want. The 100mm Cyclone in 3 parts that I printed and am really happy with was also on thingiverse, so you could also get that made I'm sure and upgrade the extraction hose.
The biggest problem for me was the connection actually, as 100mm pipe doesn't fit in the connectors (or mine anyway, (my) 3D printing can be a bit inaccurate in exact sizes so it might work for you), but the magnetic connector works well, only advice there is to put in bigger magnets than you think as it popping off under vibration is a bit of an buttocks.
Yes please
Ron
New member
The original one does both. If you search on YouTube for a video by Marius Hornberger where he refurbishes a Kity 636 he shows it about half way through.
I'll DM you the gentleman's email
rogxwhit
Established Member
A note about sniping since I just noticed that you asked. The technique for all builds of thicknesser and weights of work is the same really, but the lighter the work and the machine, the more sensitive you need to be. So for a light workpiece, ready to begin feeding, rest the first 75mm say on the thicknesser bed, and support the outboard end of the work just with a couple of fingertips, and feel for a sense of when the end in contact is resting flat on the bed. That sort of establishes the line of feed that has to be maintained until the feed rollers can take charge.
This is mirrored at the outfeed end after you've walked round the machine. It's a flowing, organic process that you have to feel your way into, and yes there's an element of guesswork involved!
It's a procedure that can even be followed with a 4m beam, but I wouldn't be doing that on a lightweight machine.
This is mirrored at the outfeed end after you've walked round the machine. It's a flowing, organic process that you have to feel your way into, and yes there's an element of guesswork involved!
It's a procedure that can even be followed with a 4m beam, but I wouldn't be doing that on a lightweight machine.
I was quite surprised to get it on a 40cm 2x4 that was all.
almost no weight to a piece that size that i could support. I will keep on playing...
Three updates on this which I will do over three posts:
1. I got the 3D printed dust extraction ports and they fit perfectly! I'm absolutely chuffed with how they have come out and the bloke who printed them couldn't have been more helpful. If anyone needs a reccomendation for someone to print something like this DM me and I will pass his details. I was expecting the finish of 3D printing to be a bit naff but it really isn't at all. The only annoying thing is the 'hook' bit for the dust port when the machine is in thicknessing mode is obstructed by the anti-kickback bar. I have removed it for the moment so that I can use the dust port but I do need to work out a solution to put the anti-kickback bar back on - or whether to leave it off permanently (apparently this feature was only present on the later Kity models). Have tested the machine out with my new (used £30) HVLP extractor and it performs excellently, 95%+ of the chips get removed and there is very little cleaning up to do at the end.
I also felt a bit silly when I realised that as there is a 100mm hole rather than a 100m spigot, I had nothing to attach my 100mm hose onto... Fortunately this very cheap (£1.69!!) connector part from screwfix fits perfectly in the hole, and my 100mm hose fits perfectly onto it (you can see it on the bottom piece in the first photo, I bought two so there is one for each extractor port). I think this is the issue that @FlatlandsF7a described in his earlier post and solved with magnets.
The issue with obstruction of the anti-kickback rollers I have tried to illustrate. The hook part of the extractor port wants to hook under the cast aluminium bridge on the left of the photo below. I cannot see a simple solution for this but welcome any thoughts or suggestions (or anyone who has the same machine but a model without the anti-kickback fingers).
1. I got the 3D printed dust extraction ports and they fit perfectly! I'm absolutely chuffed with how they have come out and the bloke who printed them couldn't have been more helpful. If anyone needs a reccomendation for someone to print something like this DM me and I will pass his details. I was expecting the finish of 3D printing to be a bit naff but it really isn't at all. The only annoying thing is the 'hook' bit for the dust port when the machine is in thicknessing mode is obstructed by the anti-kickback bar. I have removed it for the moment so that I can use the dust port but I do need to work out a solution to put the anti-kickback bar back on - or whether to leave it off permanently (apparently this feature was only present on the later Kity models). Have tested the machine out with my new (used £30) HVLP extractor and it performs excellently, 95%+ of the chips get removed and there is very little cleaning up to do at the end.
I also felt a bit silly when I realised that as there is a 100mm hole rather than a 100m spigot, I had nothing to attach my 100mm hose onto... Fortunately this very cheap (£1.69!!) connector part from screwfix fits perfectly in the hole, and my 100mm hose fits perfectly onto it (you can see it on the bottom piece in the first photo, I bought two so there is one for each extractor port). I think this is the issue that @FlatlandsF7a described in his earlier post and solved with magnets.
The issue with obstruction of the anti-kickback rollers I have tried to illustrate. The hook part of the extractor port wants to hook under the cast aluminium bridge on the left of the photo below. I cannot see a simple solution for this but welcome any thoughts or suggestions (or anyone who has the same machine but a model without the anti-kickback fingers).
Attachments
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2. I designed a replacement knob on sketchup for the infeed table adjustment as mine was missing, got that printed too and fits + works perfectly.
I would have preferred a few more ridges than just the star shape, but my sketchup skills arent yet up to that and i'm being picky... (also I definitely could have just made this part from a piece of wood...)
I would have preferred a few more ridges than just the star shape, but my sketchup skills arent yet up to that and i'm being picky... (also I definitely could have just made this part from a piece of wood...)
Attachments
Lastly...
3. I got the fence back from the fabricator this afternoon. It is made from 4mm steel plate, with a 90 degree bend at one end and some welded parts on the back. The welded parts will interface with a 20mm steel rod that @sploo is hopefully kindly going to machine for me (thankyou!!). I also need to make a piece to act as a guard (will go between the rod and the single welded-on piece to cover the exposed cutter block behind the fence), probably the guard will end up being plywood but I am quite impressed by the 3D printing so far so I might end up making something on sketchup to be printed.
Plans for the rod are attached.
3. I got the fence back from the fabricator this afternoon. It is made from 4mm steel plate, with a 90 degree bend at one end and some welded parts on the back. The welded parts will interface with a 20mm steel rod that @sploo is hopefully kindly going to machine for me (thankyou!!). I also need to make a piece to act as a guard (will go between the rod and the single welded-on piece to cover the exposed cutter block behind the fence), probably the guard will end up being plywood but I am quite impressed by the 3D printing so far so I might end up making something on sketchup to be printed.
Plans for the rod are attached.
