Kity 636

[Rhossydd]

Paragon paints do a wide range, and in hammered finish. I think there is a standard colour that's pretty close.

Wow, I've never come across Paragon before, their hammered finishes look damn close* to the Kity green Workshop Machinery Colours

*Given the lack of absolute accuracy that's possible with uncalibrated colours on computer systems

 

[Fergie 307]

Some photo updates of the planer project.

The entire machine is dissasembled except for the cutterblock and it's housing. I established that it is rather difficult to dissasemble this assembly and so my plan is to try and restore it as it is. If that doesn't work and I end up needing to replace the bearings etc then I will have to bite the bullet and take that to bits.

All of the parts have had a clean and some wire brushing etc, and 90% of them have come up really well. There are some before/after comparison photos.

I am waiting for some 'rust remover' to arrive and I will give everything a bath in that over the next two weeks or so. My next job which I will begin tomorrow is going to be the thicknesser table (which is steel) and the planer tables (which are cast aluminium).

I intend to give them a thorough wire brush scrub with some brake cleaner, and then the steel thicknesser table can have a bath in the rust remover as well.

R.E the aluminium planer tables, aside from giving them a thorough brushing and some scotch-brite therapy, I am not sure there is too much I can do for them. I have some 2000 grit sandpaper which I might try on the orbital sander but I am concerned about going too far down that route for fear of upsetting the flatness of the tables.

Any advice on the tables would be great!

Wrap a piece of wet and dry around an oilstone and some paraffin for lube. I would use something like 400 grit. Give it a quick rub over and it will immediately highlight any burrs, nicks or other damage, then you can decide how to proceed. For removing local high spots around a ding for example I just use a piece of wet and dry wrapped around something perfectly flat. I use a 10mm square HSS lathe tool. This allows you to remove the high spot without taking anything off the surrounding surface. Bear in mind that it's a woodworking machine, if the tables are a couple of thou out it's not going to make any difference. Once you have dealt with any damage related high spots then just run up and down with the wrapped oilstone, in the direction the wood will travel. A dozen or so passes will clean it up as much as you need to, and you won't remove enough material to have any bad effect. In use I just use Carnuba wax car polish on them.

 

[Fergie 307]

Wow, I've never come across Paragon before, their hammered finishes look damn close* to the Kity green Workshop Machinery Colours

*Given the lack of absolute accuracy that's possible with uncalibrated colours on computer systems

I use Paragon for all machinery since being recommended by someone on another forum and using it on my old Harrison lathe. Very easy to work with, good coverage and tough as old boots. Just be aware that for an even finish the hammered paint really should be sprayed, or you might get away with using a roller.

 

[sams93]

Paragon paints do a wide range, and in hammered finish. I think there is a standard colour that's pretty close. On mine the paint on the machine is ok, but the stand looks a bit shabby, so on my to do list but have never got around to it.

Thanks for this. I might see if I can send them a paint chip to compare with the stuff they have. The Myford Hammered finish on the website looks fairly similar to my Kity colour.

https://www.paragonpaints.co.uk/paragon-hammered-finish-myford-ml10-green-colour-match.html

 

[Fergie 307]

And while I think about it I found Ford Sunset Red is a good match for the guard and bearing caps. That's the old plain colour, not the new metallic version. Rattle can from Halfords is plenty.

 

[sams93]

It has been scrubbed with a wire brush and scotch brite pad so far. Now in goes the thicknesser table into the ‘restore rust remover solution’…

Photos with a white envelope for a ‘before’ colour reference.

I’ll try and take hourly photos until I go to bed!

 

[sams93]

At 1 hour not much difference is noticeable, the fluid is clear, there is maybe some slight darkening of the rust on the top but nothing markedly noticeable.

At 2 hours, there is noticeable blackening of the rusty areas and the fluid has a slight orange hue.

Time for bed now, I’m looking forwards to seeing how it looks in the morning!!

 

[sams93]

The morning (about 12 hours of immersion)

It had a lot of sediment sitting on top of it so I gave it a rinse under the shower head and a brush with a kitchen-type nylon brush.

It has definitely made a significant difference at this point. There is still some blackened areas of rust. I put it back in for a couple more hours.

At 18 hours - not a huge degree of difference in the past 4 hours. I spoke to Paul at the shield technologies place and he suggested I take a wire brush to the black areas to see if I can shift them to expose the under lying rust to the solution. I’ll go up to the shed shortly and give that a go.

 

[sams93]

So this is how far I got today. a bit of scrubbing every hour or so has helped to shift 75% of the rusted areas. I have been using the solution in a plastic tub which I placed in the bathtub in case it leaked etc. this afternoon I made the decision to run the bath to heat up the fluid a bit, as they say that it helps the rust removal.

That went well until about an hour ago when I forgot the bath was on, and it overflowed into the tub, so my solution (250ml rust remover in 5L of water) is now something like 200ml rust remover in 10L of water….

Rather frustrated but lesson learned! I shall order some more product.

I have realised that the scrubbing of all the smaller parts is going to be incredibly laborious, and I understand that an ultrasonic cleaner bath can do the same thing (the purpose of the scrubbing is to remove the blackened rust residue to expose more of the rust underneath to the fluid). So I have ordered a small ultrasonic cleaner which apparently will be here next week, and I plan to use it for the smaller parts.

I do wish I could get hold of a larger one which would fit the cutter block and everything else in it but sadly these parts are going to have to have the scrubbing treatment!

 

[Fergie 307]

I would try phosphoric acid, much quicker and doesn't leave the black oxide residue. Probably cheaper too. It may sound scary, but it is actually quite ok. It just leaves a Matt grey appearance, which polishes up easily. I find the pan scrubbers, the ones that look like a ball of stainless swarf, are very good for this sort of job.

 

[sams93]

So it is all back together now. I didn't quite manage to document the process step by step as I had hoped but I will throw some photos in here anyway!

 

[sams93]

Put it back on the original stand temporarily for a test. Very pleased with how it is operating. Had the blades it came with re-sharpened as it turned out a lot cheaper than buying new ones (I hadn't realised that they are an unusual size).

It will snugly fit in beween my bandsaw and chop saw, I need to make it a cabinet on castors to sit on (space is at a real premium so I can't afford to loose the use of the space underneath the machine!). It will also need to sit slightly lower than the chop saw table so that I can continue to use the chop saw.

Levels of snipe in thicknesser mode arent great, not terrible but not great. I will have a play around with the tension on the rollers and see if that will help at all, otherwise it will have to come down to supporting the pieces in and out.

 

[sams93]

For the dust extraction:

I have the original extraction hood for planer mode, but it is a bit crude and being metal scratches up the thicknesser bed when installed. I was thinking of making something from wood until I found some files online for a 3D printable extractor port someone had made for their machine and kindly shared (photos attached).

I also crudely designed (my SketchUp skills are pretty basic) a plastic thumbknob for the infeed table as currently I can only turn it with a wrench.

Found someone else online who agreed to print them for £50. Hoping to have them delivered by the end of this week. I have these files for anyone who might want them, I have attached some renders to this post.

 

[Rhossydd]

Thanks for mentioning those 3D printable parts for the 636. They should be a great upgrade for the PT.

 

[sams93]

Then finally, the fence.

My machine didn't come with it's fence when I picked it up. The original was made from a piece of 4mm steel with a 90 degree bend at the top to give strength. I haven't the skills to do this, but I found a local engineering firm who agreed to make one for me if I designed it.

@Fergie 307 kindly sent me the details of his one and some photos (which I have attached to this post), so I based my design from them.

I drew a design up on sketchup (attached) which is as similar to the original as I can get it, and I have given it to the engineering firm so hopefully I will hear from them in a week or two when this is made.

It attaches to the machine via a 20mm rod which I needed to source. I have purchased a 330mm long, 20mm diameter bright steel rod from ebay (£7.50), which will hopefully arrive this week. Then I will need to make some slots in the end of the rod to fit it to the fence. Not sure how I will do that yet, I am not sure my bandsaw is up to the task!! It might come down to using my dremel and a small cutting disc.

 

[sams93]

Thanks for mentioning those 3D printable parts for the 636. They should be a great upgrade for the PT.

Do you want the files, for some reason I can't upload the .stl files but I can email them.

There is also a set I found for the 635 which is just narrower.

 

[Rhossydd]

They're freely available to download from Thingiverse, so I've already got them thanks
The package from Thingiverse also includes the original design files for Fusion 360, so it might be possible to edit them and break the design down to sizes more easily(aka affordably) printed.

 

[sams93]

They're freely available to download from Thingiverse, so I've already got them thanks
The package from Thingiverse also includes the original design files for Fusion 360, so it might be possible to edit them and break the design down to sizes more easily(aka affordably) printed.

yeah that's where I got it from. Discussed with a couple of people who offered 3D printing services and they explained that it was too big for their printers but could cut it down. Eventually found someone with a big printer who could do it in one piece which I thought sounded best!

 

[rogxwhit]

Levels of snipe in thicknesser mode arent great

Snipe should be minimal since the bed is flat and the work registers to the bed. But as machines go these are quite 'toy-like' (including the pressure springs) and anything with a bit of length or weight will need supporting sensitively on the way both in and out.

You're doing a fine job - it's a pleasure to see it.

 

[sams93]

Snipe should be minimal since the bed is flat and the work registers to the bed. But as machines go these are quite 'toy-like' (including the pressure springs) and anything with a bit of length or weight will need supporting sensitively on the way both in and out.

You're doing a fine job - it's a pleasure to see it.

Interesting to hear regarding the snipe. I passed two 30cm long 2x4's through the thicknesser just to try it out and check the table was level at each end with the blade. Both pieces ended up with about 0.5mm snipe for 6cm at both ends. Passed them through a few times taking 0.5-1mm off each pass.

They weren't long workpieces nor heavy! I haven't tried adjusting the springs as yet but I will play aorund with the tensions once I have extraction set up (at the moment it just makes a big mess without extraction!).

How do you get on with your one and snipe?