Kity 636

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sams93

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I have just picked up a kity 636 planer for next to nothing. The seller didn't really know anything about it and I don't know anything of it's history. It appears to have been serviced in 2014.

The fence is missing, so I am going to have to manufacture one for it. The beds all need a bit of a refresh and I will try to give the thing a bit of an overhaul.

I will put up some photos later of its current condition and as I go through the process of overhauling it I will try and update this thread.

Was wondering if anyone had experience with this model and any advice before i start!
 
You sound pretty canny so just get stuck in. I rebuilt and commissioned one not long ago. Cutterblock & table alignment / correlation was the theme. All is adjustable to a limited degree. The frame of the machine might be thought of as a given reference. The cutterblock / feed roller assembly comes next, & I'd be tempted to assume that as a given, though it's adjustable if you slacken the fixing screws. As with the surface tables on their inclines, it seems that the fixing holes in the frame are oversized enough to allow adjustment. But if you slacken off too many things at once, there's a danger that you'll lose your sense of reference.

The thicknessing table adjustment is a thing alone, & possibly should come last. And is governed by the cogs & chain underneath.
 
You sound pretty canny so just get stuck in. I rebuilt and commissioned one not long ago. Cutterblock & table alignment / correlation was the theme. All is adjustable to a limited degree. The frame of the machine might be thought of as a given reference. The cutterblock / feed roller assembly comes next, & I'd be tempted to assume that as a given, though it's adjustable if you slacken the fixing screws. As with the surface tables on their inclines, it seems that the fixing holes in the frame are oversized enough to allow adjustment. But if you slacken off too many things at once, there's a danger that you'll lose your sense of reference.

The thicknessing table adjustment is a thing alone, & possibly should come last. And is governed by the cogs & chain underneath.
Thanks, I might quiz you again at some point during the process. There is quite a bit of corrosion on the thicknesser table so i think that might have to come out for its restoration.
 
I admire your determination! The more we do, the more we learn - up to the point where we might possibly self-destruct??

Keep grasping the nettle ;-)
 
Only problem you may have is If you need to replace the bearings on the cutter block. The pulley is an interference fit, and usually a pig to get off. I have converted mine to use a multi groove belt, so slit the old pulley to get it off and made a new one. There are some good videos on you tube of a chap, in Germany I think, restoring one. Nice machine though, and well worth the effort.
 
There is quite a bit of corrosion on the thicknesser table so i think that might have to come out for its restoration.
Just in case this is disguised by the wear and corrosion, the tables on the 636 are cast aluminium. The thicknesser table originally showed the machining marks of having been machined flat with multiple, side by side, passes of an end mill, and they are anodised. Some slightly strange version that looks like but is not as durable as a full on type 3 hard anodise should be, but still lasts much better than you would expect from a cheaper type 2 anodise.

The surface tables were machined flat with a big fly cutter, from new you could see the arcs spanning the entire width of the tables.
 
Just in case this is disguised by the wear and corrosion, the tables on the 636 are cast aluminium. The thicknesser table originally showed the machining marks of having been machined flat with multiple, side by side, passes of an end mill, and they are anodised. Some slightly strange version that looks like but is not as durable as a full on type 3 hard anodise should be, but still lasts much better than you would expect from a cheaper type 2 anodise.

The surface tables were machined flat with a big fly cutter, from new you could see the arcs spanning the entire width of the tables.
Yes I am very interested to work out how best to restore these. The planer tables are obviously Aluminium and have mild to moderate corrosion.

The thicknesser bed could be mistaken for iron with the severe corrosion on it, I think that will take a lot more work once I get it out!

I will in due course be asking for advice on renewing aluminium beds!
 
Photos as promised. I had to take it to bits to get it in the car.

The cutter block and Infeed roller looks like they are going to take quite a bit of work!

The place I got it from was very peculiar, When the bloke showed me it working he touched it and it gave him a shock!! I am sure that there must be something wrong with the machine wiring but he assured me that ‘all of the machines in his building give him shocks, and that it is something to do with the wiring in the barn he works in” :ROFLMAO:

I will definitely be going through all of the electrics on it before i plug it in!
 

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This must have been one of the changes over the lifetime of the product. To be fair, Kity did make incremental changes to their machines so I'm not surprised and I'm happy to be corrected.

I owned the (3)636 model which I always regarded as just a 636 on a pressed steel sheet base (made in two sections with steel strip ties linking them together). The thicknesser table on mine was an alloy casting as I described it.
The final evolution of the model was when they upgraded it with aluminium extrusion fence.
IMG-20190729-WA0003.jpg


3636 - compared to your photos the design did move on a bit !
 
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You will no doubt take it off the stand to restore. Worth noting that there are large holes in ghe bottom of the case which allow access to the chains, presumably for lubrication. I have never seen one with any sort of factory covers over the holes. Suffice to say chips will get through the holes into the space between the bottom of the machine and the top of the table and clog up the chain drive. They need covering, if only with a bit of gaffer tape.
 
Some photo updates of the planer project.

The entire machine is dissasembled except for the cutterblock and it's housing. I established that it is rather difficult to dissasemble this assembly and so my plan is to try and restore it as it is. If that doesn't work and I end up needing to replace the bearings etc then I will have to bite the bullet and take that to bits.

All of the parts have had a clean and some wire brushing etc, and 90% of them have come up really well. There are some before/after comparison photos.

I am waiting for some 'rust remover' to arrive and I will give everything a bath in that over the next two weeks or so. My next job which I will begin tomorrow is going to be the thicknesser table (which is steel) and the planer tables (which are cast aluminium).

I intend to give them a thorough wire brush scrub with some brake cleaner, and then the steel thicknesser table can have a bath in the rust remover as well.

R.E the aluminium planer tables, aside from giving them a thorough brushing and some scotch-brite therapy, I am not sure there is too much I can do for them. I have some 2000 grit sandpaper which I might try on the orbital sander but I am concerned about going too far down that route for fear of upsetting the flatness of the tables.

Any advice on the tables would be great!
 

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There should be a cover over the belt drive that mounts on that hexagon shaft with a threaded end. You might have already taken if off before taking photos though ??
I've had mine for 35 years and it was secondhand when I bought it.
 
There should be a cover over the belt drive that mounts on that hexagon shaft with a threaded end. You might have already taken if off before taking photos though ??
I've had mine for 35 years and it was secondhand when I bought it.
I've taken all the covers off and put them in the loft for now, I thought I would see to the covers last!

I'm actually wondering if I can get a substitute for the original paint. It seems a shame to touch up the painted parts in something which doesnt match..
 
I'm actually wondering if I can get a substitute for the original paint. It seems a shame to touch up the painted parts in something which doesnt match..
I very much doubt it. It appears to be more like Hammerite style paint with a mottled metallic appearance, I would expect it would be very difficult to match to.
I'd just clean any rust off and either lacquer over bare metal or wax it. Retain some patina of use.
I don't think it's a machine so solidly made to be worth a huge amount of restoration effort. Useful and workable, but not classic like a Wadkin.
 
I very much doubt it. It appears to be more like Hammerite style paint with a mottled metallic appearance, I would expect it would be very difficult to match to.
I'd just clean any rust off and either lacquer over bare metal or wax it. Retain some patina of use.
I don't think it's a machine so solidly made to be worth a huge amount of restoration effort. Useful and workable, but not classic like a Wadkin.
If I cant find some paint easily enough then I expect i'll just laquer it like you suggest.

I'm not restoring it because I thought it had particular value etc, it's just a project for pleasure!
 
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I've taken all the covers off and put them in the loft for now, I thought I would see to the covers last!

I'm actually wondering if I can get a substitute for the original paint. It seems a shame to touch up the painted parts in something which doesnt match..
Paragon paints do a wide range, and in hammered finish. I think there is a standard colour that's pretty close. On mine the paint on the machine is ok, but the stand looks a bit shabby, so on my to do list but have never got around to it.
 

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