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lurker

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The kitchen arrives on Monday and I am going to install it myself.
An expert is coming to mitre the worktops but otherwise just me.

Any tips from the professionals on here ?
 

TheTiddles

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Nothing other than you really don’t need to be an expert to mitre the workshops, a router and a jig is all you need
 

Doug71

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Just make sure the units are level.

I often get asked to fit worktops on kitchens that people have fitted themselves or a "mate" has fitted but I don't do it anymore.

You can guarantee 9 times out of 10 the units are not level, square or in line so the person fitting the worktops has to start adjusting the units for level etc before they can start fitting the worktops #-o

I'm sure yours will be spot on though :D
 

lurker

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TheTiddles":2vnar7pu said:
Nothing other than you really don’t need to be an expert to mitre the workshops, a router and a jig is all you need
The bloke is going to do it for less than the price of a jig.
I know my limitations 8)
 

novocaine

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Theres no such thing as a perfectly flat wall and plumb wall.
So make sure you have a selection of spacers to hold the wall cabinets level.

Don't assume your floor is flat and level.
run a line and check it, then set your work from the high spot so you don't run out of travel on the legs. (ours runs off 3" from one end to the other with a hump in the middle)
get all carcasses in on legs before you start fitting back to the wall, there are always little adjustments you will need to make to get a nice straight run (see bit above about walls).

It's not hard to do it right, but it's very very easy to do it wrong.
 

AndyT

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We hired professionals, but something they said at the time might be worth passing on.

They were really pleased that the adjoining dining area (which is a bit bigger than the kitchen) was completely clear for them to use.

It meant that the pre-built units could be organised and ready when they were needed. They said that it saved a lot of work because they didn't need to shift anything twice just to get to the right bit that they needed next.

Probably even more important if moving big cabinets on your own.
 

lurker

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I have several wall mounted isolating switches and fused spurs that will need "a little window" into the back of the wall cupboards. I was planning on cutting through the back panel and then framing the hole .
Hopefully this makes sense! Or is there a better way?
 

AJB Temple

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I agree about getting it level. Be super fussy on that. I made my own kitchen this year but employed professionals to fit quartz worktops.  6 metre long, extra wide worktop with sink cut out, and 6 metre by 1.4m island with three rebated flush appliance cut outs.

The guys doing the templating and slab fitting said that in 8 out of 10 cases, the worktops are not level, in most cases nowhere near level, and they end up dealing with it with silicone and shims quite often as the kitchen fitters are unhelpful. If they do not install level, then the upstands look terrible.

Also in Mychal case, because of the size, 3m slabs of quartz had to be joined. (They did a fantastic job - near invisible). If you are joining work surfaces then it is essential to have the mating areas dead level and well supported.

Be super careful getting your oven / hob dead on level in all directions. Otherwise fat runs to a low point in pans. Very annoying if you are a cook.
 

AJB Temple

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You will regret cutting holes in cupboards to access switches and sockets. Makes it look an amateur job. Dirt trap, spider hide hole and awkward to plug things in as needed. Much better to refit them properly as required (inside cupboard if necessary).
 

Doug71

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If the carcasses are coming ready built don't presume they are square, I fitted a Howden one recently and had to square up two of the wall units.
 

lurker

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Doug71":3asujqoc said:
If the carcasses are coming ready built don't presume they are square, I fitted a Howden one recently and had to square up two of the wall units.
It is a howdens.
Will measure them carefully.
Not in a hurry so I have the option of sending them back.
Thanks,something I might have overlooked.
 

lurker

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AJB Temple":2b4od8lb said:
You will regret cutting holes in cupboards to access switches and sockets. Makes it look an amateur job. Dirt trap, spider hide hole and awkward to plug things in as needed. Much better to refit them properly as required (inside cupboard if necessary).
No sockets, just isolation switches.
Need to access them once in a blue moon but when you do you need to get to them easily.
Ditto water stop valves.
 

lurker

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flying haggis":2k8wljxy said:
+1 for spaceplugs. handy little blighters I can tell you. if you do want to mount isolation switches in the unit rears use a plasterboard box ie

https://www.toolstation.com/appleby-dry ... xes/p86567 to give a neat finish. the lugs on the side of the box will hold the box to the unit as you tighten the switch fixing screws
Thanks but, the problem is, if I ever need to pull out the cabinets, I have electrics to deal with as well.
 

Doug71

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Proper trade tip so you are not allowed to tell anyone this :wink:

If you have a run of wall units or fixing them to stud walls get a length of the bracket in the link attached below. Much easier then messing around with the little individual brackets, can fasten it anywhere along it's length and the wall units automatically line up. You do have to make a little cut out in the back edge of the wall units but it's not seen.

https://www.howdens.com/hardware/screws ... ly-rkc0135
 
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