Joiners: How do you size a door SKETCHUP DRAWING OF JIG

[blackrodd]

Just in case anybody doesn't already know this - the single most useful accessory to door fitting is the door prop wedge. You can plane the edges even if you are working on a narrow landing:

could do with a bit of dusting around here

That's a blast from the past!
Had a pair of these for years, but just use the workmate now, and a couple of strips on the floor.
Regards Rodders

 

[HOJ]

My jig is well on the way, just waiting for an adjustment component. If it works it will speed up the process dramatically and guarantee accuracy for any shape of door opening.

I hope you are going to share :idea:

 

[Graham Orm]

My jig is well on the way, just waiting for an adjustment component. If it works it will speed up the process dramatically and guarantee accuracy for any shape of door opening.

I hope you are going to share :idea:

Yes will do, just waiting for a turnbuckle to arrive from ebay.

 

[Graham Orm]

This is my adjustable

 

[blackrodd]

I can see the theory, but how will this jig translate the bows and bends commonly found in older door frame stiles, to the new door?
I hardly take any notice of poorly fitted frames and linings, as there seems to be so many so called carpenters who cannot perform even the basics like door framing and fitting.
But, at the end of the day, it's just another door!
The old rule applies, if it works for you then do it!
I only see it as making more work,and more stuff to carry around.
As you will need the door flat now, for jig marking, you'll be needing another trestle or workmate in place, to keep it stable, etc, etc.

regards Rodders

 

[Graham Orm]

That will be the case BR but the plan is that I will only have to cut once and it will go straight in. As far as bows are concerned, a careful watch when setting the jig in place and a note of where they are will deal with them. Maybe a renewable strip of masking tape down each edge of the jig to mark where they start and finish.

The idea is that it will only take one visit to the trestles, and will fit first time. I'm sure I don't need to tell you how heavy an oak door is to be humping around and test fitting, and how important it is, especially with an expensive door to get it just right. I'm hoping it will cut time taken at least in half.

 

[blackrodd]

That will be the case BR but the plan is that I will only have to cut once and it will go straight in. As far as bows are concerned, a careful watch when setting the jig in place and a note of where they are will deal with them. Maybe a renewable strip of masking tape down each edge of the jig to mark where they start and finish.

The idea is that it will only take one visit to the trestles, and will fit first time. I'm sure I don't need to tell you how heavy an oak door is to be humping around and test fitting, and how important it is, especially with an expensive door to get it just right. I'm hoping it will cut time taken at least in half.

I have indeed hung an oak door or two, in my time.
Hard work with, as you say, the humping around etc
That's when the foot lifter comes out
Regards Rodders

 

[Random Orbital Bob]

whats needed is some kind of laser scribing tool that sweeps the entire frame, records the data then allows you to somehow transfer that to the new door. Don't ask me how though...that's the job for a female engineer!

 

[nanscombe]

I wonder if it would be possible to simply pin wallpaper, or an old sheet, over the door frame and carefully trace the outline then cut it out.

 

[No skills]

42

 

[CHJ]

42

that's certainly one answer, others have different interpretations of life.

 

[Bradshaw Joinery]

I would be incredibly surprised if you made a jig that would be a one hit perfect fit in any lining.... The smallest of shavings can make a difference to the gap appearance, something that takes time to get right.

Get a long level or straight edge, piece of 9mm mdf about 6" wide? And cut it a bit shorter than door height. Screw a second piece narrower than opening at 90 degrees and brace it against the upright at 45 degrees. (It doesnt have to be perfect 90 degrees as you can measure off of this piece to get the top and bottom angles of the door from the hanging stile, it will also check if the hanging stile is straight.

Offre the strip up to the hanging stile and note any gaps, push it up tight to the head of the lining and note gap along the tops... Turn it upside down keeping the gaps the same on the hanging stile if its bellied.... And note the bottom gaps relative to the piece of timber you have attached at 90 degrees. You can then take the height of the door, off the hanging side, and you have the top and bottom angles then take the widest measurement of the width, allow your gap and plane to that... Then try it and go from there...

 

[Graham Orm]

Thanks for the tip Mr Bradshaw. I've done something like that before. I'm pretty confident this jig will get very close. After further thought, and a comment relating to bowing I'll first set the jig inside the frame (not the rebate) with masking tape down the edge and scribe the bow onto the masking tape, then loosen the jig and set the angle of the hanging style at head whilst measuring the lengths of both. Then repeat the procedure on the closing style. I'm pretty certain it will work. I'm disappointed if I don't hang a door with a 'penny gap' all round and will only be happy if this device works to that accuracy.

 

[Mar_mite]

I think Jacob has this one right. Get the hinge side right, then wedge the door tight over to the jamb and up to the head. I sometimes use two pound coins together to mark round the door, plane down to the line and you have the correct gap, leave the line in if you want it a bit tighter. I don't think it's a dark art.

 

[Graham Orm]

I think Jacob has this one right. Get the hinge side right, then wedge the door tight over to the jamb and up to the head. I sometimes use two pound coins together to mark round the door, plane down to the line and you have the correct gap, leave the line in if you want it a bit tighter. I don't think it's a dark art.

Once the door is wedged how do you get to the other side to mark it?

If the door's oversize what do you wedge it against?

 

[Mar_mite]

I think Jacob has this one right. Get the hinge side right, then wedge the door tight over to the jamb and up to the head. I sometimes use two pound coins together to mark round the door, plane down to the line and you have the correct gap, leave the line in if you want it a bit tighter. I don't think it's a dark art.

Once the door is wedged how do you get to the other side to mark it?

If the door's oversize what do you wedge it against?

Mark it from the side you are standing. You still need to get it down to a size that will fit the opening. Once it's in the fame, then wedge it over.

 

[Graham Orm]

You can't mark it from the side you're standing if the door is oversize, it hides the reveal.

It's all the trial and error that I'm fed up of.

 

[Mar_mite]

Your right, you still need to size the door roughly. Using a tape measure. I can't personally see the benefit in using your jig, you will still need to offer the door up the same amount of times.

 

[Graham Orm]

You can't use a tape measure and get it spot on first time, or at least I can't. what is the frame is out of square, your dimensions will be right but the door still won't fit. So many variables.

My own process to date is having marked the door with a small cross to identify the inside and top hinge side, turn the door upside down and offer it up in the open position so that I can see exactly where it meets the reveal. Do this on both sides, switching the door over for each stile. Then flip it back the right way up and whilst trying to hold it against the hinge stile scribe the angle for the bottom cut.
Then cut to the bottom to length.
Then go through a hit and miss process with the lock edge taking into account any bow's in the both the styles shown up by checking with a long level.

This all takes longer than it needs to and is hard graft.

 

[Mar_mite]

You can use a tape to get the door close enough to fit the frame,checking for bows in the james. Once fitted in then it's time to scribe accurately.

But your right, hanging doors is a pain. I try to avoid it as much as possible.