How to unwarp a warped countertop, please!!!

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Mike of COMX

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Hi, a newbie here, and hoping for some advice. I recently bought a compound countertop (3m long, 600 mm wide, 25 mm thick) made from oak (possibly beech?) with cross sectional areas of about 25 x 25 mm. I made a couple of cross cuts to size, and stored these pieces in the garage, standing width-vertical. And as my topic suggests, they warped within a few days, with about 10 to 15 mm of warp (or relief) between the sides. These were not cheap, and so I feel like a real idiot. I thought these sorts of compound boards were more stable! Is there anyway to rescue them? I’m currently clamping them to a flat table top, but I fear they will just bounce back. Any advice would be appreciated. Thanks, and happy new year!
 
Welcome Mike.

"Laminated" is the word you wanted. The other word is "cupped" (warp is a twist, and it sounds to me like your boards edges have risen).

If it is warped (ie twisted), then I'd say forget it. If it is just cupped, then it suggest it has dried differentially on one face compared with the other. Has each face got a finish on it, or is it just on one side (or none at all)? How have you stored it?

Your answers to these questions will determine what you need to do next, but you do have a chance.
 
I had a similar problem with a laminated oak countertop 1200mm wide by 1700mmm long. It cupped so that the edges rose and the dip in the middle was about 8mm. I couldn't do anything with it and it had to be replaced.
 
Let the air get all around them (not stacked together) hopefully that'll even them up. Prepare to be patient though.

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IMO the manner of storage is what has caused the problem. Where ever possible boards should be laid flat supported on timber that is both straight and of the same thickness (sticks) every say 18”. It is highly likely that a moisture gradient has occurred due to them being in an unheated and therefore damp garage. There is a really good chance that they can be rescued.

Firstly you need to find somewhere that you can store them where they can be laid flat and be warm and dry. You will need the cheapest 25 x 25mm wood you can find that’s straight to lay the boards on to allow air to circulate around them. Dampen the concave side of the board and do so each day for about 3 days. Just a wipe over with a damp cloth. You want this side to swell slightly to assist in straightening the board. The convex side needs to shrink slightly. Place the boards such that the concave side is downwards. After a couple of days you should see the board start to straighten if it’s going to. It must however be in a warm damp free environment I.e. in the house!

Good luck.
 
ColeyS1":2nvf5xi3 said:
Let the air get all around them (not stacked together) hopefully that'll even them up. Prepare to be patient though.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

This.

Preferably in the room they are going to end up in.
 
Thanks for all of this! To answer a couple of questions: cupped is what they are, not warped (ie not twisted). There likely was a strong humidity gradient, and they were stored vertically, the width side being vertical (not the length). I will follow these suggestions and cross my fingers. Again, many thanks.
Mike.
 
When it comes to applying a finish, give the underside the same amount of coats as the top. If you don't, you'll end up with the same situation you have now- albeit probably not quite as severe. Don't expect it to sort itself out overnight. Perhaps after a week or so you might see it start regaining it's flatness.

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MikeG.":2h3s2z5k said:
If it is warped (ie twisted), then I'd say forget it.
Actually Mike that's not quite true because:
1. Warp is really a general term indicating distortion of some sort in a plank. The following sub-categories more precisely describe warp.
2. Cupping across the width is a concavity across a board's width.
3. Spring, crook, or edge bend means the edge of the board is not straight.
4. Bowing shows as an end to end bend along the length of the wide face of a plank, and cast is another name sometimes used for this condition. Another sometimes seen form of bowing is multi-bowing (a series of waves) through improper stacking of the wood during drying or storage where the bow is induced by poor stickering, particularly when the wood is wet and flexible, i.e., stickers aren’t set vertically exactly one above the other.
5. ‘In winding’ or twist. Differential shrinkage, usually in all three planes- tangential, radial and longitudinal, causes the plank to resemble a propeller. Very often a contributory cause is reaction wood, either compression or tension wood, or juvenile wood. Another common cause of the fault is spiral grain.
6. Kink is a sharp deviation from straight along the edge: commonly caused by an edge knot.

As to fixing the cupping in this worktop, others have already suggested possible strategies, but here's what I normally do, and it's a more aggressive technique than some already described.

Sit the board convex side down on a flat surface. With the concave side now sat upwards get a water wet rag and sponge this side generously. Monitor the cupping over the next hour or so. Similarly, you can sit the concave face down on a flat surface over wet newsprint in a warm area. Again monitor to observe progress towards flat.

When the board has (hopefully) flattened sticker it up horizontally on stickers set about 500 - 600 mm apart running across the grain that are 20-30 mm thick so the air can circulate all round. Monitor the board for a while and tweak as needed. You can also put an extra layer of stickers on top of the top board, if there's more than one, put a piece of plywood or similar over the stickers and apply pressure, e.g., weights, cramps, blocks, whatever.

If there are several boards to stack (regardless of needing to remove any form of warp) always align the stickers vertically to minimise the chance of inducing multi-bowing as described above - multi-bowing isn't usually induced in wood that's dry if the stickers aren't perfectly aligned and storage is short-term, i.e., two or three days, but any long term storage really should be done with precisely vertically aligned stickers. Slainte.
 
The question of whether it has a finish is really important, and the reason has been covered: differential uptake of moisture into one side of the board. It may be that you have to strip any finish off.
 
I have just fitted a wenge breakfast bar for a customer, was about 6ft long, 3ft wide and 40mm thick. The day before I fitted it they left it laid on top of a worktop in their kitchen. Overnight it had noticeably cupped because one face was exposed to the air but the other was not. I built the oak frame for it to sit on and we just left it laid on top of the base for a few days and luckily it straightened itself out.

I am sure once your tops get properly acclimatized they will be fine.

Doug
 
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