How to tension a Kity 613 bandsaw

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Im not sure on the laminate, but if it's hard and can cope with the heat / friction if the blade rubs, it should be fine. I simply measured the size of the old one and made a short length of it, so ive probably got enough for 4 pairs.
 
I have tried over the weekend to set the Kity up using Alex Snodgras method with no luck. I set it by eye and get the tension and blade position as he described. Good so far.
When I turn the saw on the blade instantly moves forward to roughly the position as recommended by Kity with the teeth overhanging the wheel.
Looks like new tyres are required. Any recommendations? Is it a diy job or can anyone recommend a decent place to do it?
 
I have tried over the weekend to set the Kity up using Alex Snodgras method with no luck. I set it by eye and get the tension and blade position as he described. Good so far.
When I turn the saw on the blade instantly moves forward to roughly the position as recommended by Kity with the teeth overhanging the wheel.
Looks like new tyres are required. Any recommendations? Is it a diy job or can anyone recommend a decent place to do it?


To be honest if when you turn it on it runs the way Kity say it should I would think you have got it sorted.
If you need new tyres you would know by having bits missing.
 
I had an idea they were flat.
Few guides will be available as most bandsaws especially smaller ones have crowned tires.
Another machine has and that's the inca machine.

The biggest difference I have found with flat tires is the more you tension, the further forward the blade will track.
When installing a blade loosely and hand turning the wheels for tracking,
make sure the blade is further back on the wheels than if they were crowned.

I'd say if the rubber was too soft, odd bits of the tires would come off, and the edge of the wheel which acts as a crowned profile would make it very apparent on a wider blade that this was happening, as it would be dancing about big time.
This could also be that they only need a clean from pitch,
The sawdust tracks should make that apparent.

Failing all that, if you have some other blades, I'd see what those are like.
Then you can mess about with the lower wheel instead of having to replace the tires.
Good idea to take a few photos of the position of the jacking screws first, and maybe the position of the upper wheel tracking knob.

And if that doesn't work a wee dressing might be in order, which isn't a big issue.

All the best
 
I think most US bandsaws are crowned and so the blade will run in the centre of the tyre. If the tyre or wheel are not crowned surely the manufacturer will set up the saw so that the blade runs with the teeth off the tyre?
 
Not sure it's really designed for very narrow blades. If you have to use such narrow ones I would suggest you need a machine with crowned wheels. I have never tried anything less than 1/2 on mine and they are fine.
 

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