Hot Tub Help

[Stoday]

Ancient Greek warships, built around 400 BC, were constructed with planks butted together, with pinned biscuits holding them together. Thus the hull was smoother than the normal clinker built wooden boat.

A chapter in the book The Athenian Trireme by Morrison & Coates describes this method in detail.

 

[Paul Chapman]

Ancient Greek warships, built around 400 BC, were constructed with planks butted together, with pinned biscuits holding them together.

And I thought the biscuit jointer was a relatively modern invention :?

Paul

 

[Scrit]

Ancient Greek warships, built around 400 BC, were constructed with planks butted together, with pinned biscuits holding them together. Thus the hull was smoother than the normal clinker built wooden boat.

Coopered and biscuited - now there's a combination........ although the biscuits sound more akin to fishplates, albeit on the inside rather than the outside.

Scrit

 

[engineer one]

come on scrit, you are getting as bad as mike w,
either the greeks invented railways before we did,
cause fishplates join rails,
or are you suggesting maybe that's why the smash
plates in greek restaurants, so they can send the bits
off to join the wood together??? :lol: :lol: :twisted:

i seem to remember that they found some phonecian boats in
the med recently, and the joins between the planks were a kind
of dowel in each plank, and ropes tied to hold it all together.,
also one of those adam hart davies programmes on the telly recently
he had made a wooden planked boat with a kind of natural
caulking, which after they had soaked the boat for a couple
of days, expanded and then the boat floated and carried men.
amazing how many old simple skills we have lost

paul :wink:

 

[Scrit]

.....also one of those adam hart davies programmes on the telly recently he had made a wooden planked boat with a kind of natural caulking, which after they had soaked the boat for a couple of days, expanded and then the boat floated and carried men.
amazing how many old simple skills we have lost

Yes, but isn't it amazing that a cooper can make a wet barrel with butted curved joints and no glue at all which is held together by four steel hoops? And for the most part these barrels don't leak. Doing a straight sided tub would seam to be relatively easy in comparison, especially if there's a liner inside.

Scrit

 

[engineer one]

scrit you are right, i remember seeing a guy make a barrel on
the telly once, no sooner had they started than he seemed to
finish.

i do seem to remember that they used to put a lighted torch in
the middle of the barrel after construction, i guess to make
a surface that was less likely to leak? anyone know???

back to the glenmorangie i guess :lol:

paul :wink:

 

[Scrit]

The fire is something to do with adding colour and flavour to the final product. To quote:

"The length of heating results in a "toast level" on which the flavors of the wine aged in the barrel will partially depend. During the heating of the staves, some substances of the wood are caramelized and develop a multitude of aromas, such as vanilla, fresh bread, buttered bread, or a touch of nut, that will be found in the final taste of the wine. Toast level will be adjusted according to the customers' requests: light, medium or heavy toast."

So there!

Scrit

 

[engineer one]

i'll take any excuse :lol: :lol:

the water of life one works for me :twisted: :twisted:

paul :wink:

 

[Scrit]

Ancient Greek warships, built around 400 BC, were constructed with planks butted ....

Stoday - do you think the tub needs a ramming prow, then? :lol:

Scrit

 

[Anonymous]

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[Scrit]

For anyone who wants to see a video of a barrel being assembled, there's a clip here

Scrit

 

[blair]

Some sound advice here guys. What I think I'll do is to ask my local timber merchant if they can supply me with kiln dried pine boards machined to my requirements and a five foot disc of ply. The tub will be straight sided with no taper towards the bottom so it would just be a question of machining the hollows and rounds into 3ft lengths of timber and cutting the "croze" rebate two inches from the bottom. Does anyone know anything about ordering machined timber? I'm wondering if this is, a; possible, and b; expensive?

Thanks to everyone for their very informative input.

Cheers!
Blair

 

[Scrit]

Yes - your merchant is unlikely to supply hollows and rounds unless he also runs a joinery shop! Most merchants will only saw and straight plane, so the tapers will probably be down to you. And the croze is a groove nor a rebate and needs to n=be put in AFTER the tub shape has been assembled. You can't cut it any other way

Scrit

 

[Anonymous]

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[blair]

I don't want to get into the realms of expensive hardwoods, so I might just use ordinary pine boards. The inside wont get wet because it will have a heavy duty vinyl liner. I will treat the exterior with preservative and deck oil/varnish.

The croze doesnt have to be a precision joint because the waterproofing will be provided by the liner not the "barrel". The croze just needs to house the plywood bottom.

My timber merchant has a service that cuts complex mouldings to customer requirements, so I was thinking that they may be able to machine my hollows and rounds.

Is this starting to sound more feasible?

To give you an idea of what I'm aiming at the end result should look something like this, except with a vinyl interior liner.

http://www.spatacus.co.uk/htpk1.htm

Cheers!

Blair

 

[Alf]

http://www.spatacus.co.uk/htpk1.htm

Heh heh, I'm sure they used to pack pilchards like that... :lol:

Sorry, that's not helpful. Thinking about it, if the thing's straight-sided, then aren't there spindle moulder cutters pretty much ideal for the job? In which case I think you have a Plan there, Blair. Oh and welcome to the forum.

Cheers, Alf

 

[Paul Chapman]

To give you an idea of what I'm aiming at the end result should look something like this

Looks like quite good fun :wink:

Paul

 

[blair]

LOL! It does look a bit like Hannibal Lecter's stock pot, but it is very therapeutic. Thanks for the welcome guys? I just going to google "spindle maker" because I've never heard of them. Are there any inexpensive versions? It might be cheaper to buy one and go back to my scaffold board model. I doubt that I'll ber using it much after this project.

Thanks for the welcome!

 

[jasonB]

Spindle moulders don't come cheap, but the cutters for them do and there are standard ones that will give the cuts you require therefore saving the cost of getting ones specially ground.

Cutter No 8 and No 87 should do.

Are you going to cut the scaffold board into narrower strips to stop it looking like a 50p?

Jason

 

[blair]

Jason, thanks for the link. These cutters look exactly right for the job, but I can't afford a sindle moulder at the moment and I doubt that I will find moulding planes any time soon (although I'll keep my eye out). From the very interesting input I've had here I reckon the circular tub is a very doable job if you have the right tools. I don't, so I'm switching to plan B. I'm going to use my scaffold boards to make an outdoor ofuro, something like this,

http://www.woodentubs.com/images/ofurofeet.jpg

I know that this is made from mega-expesive Japanese hardwood, but you'd be surprised how attractive a new scaffy board looks when its stained and oiled. I'll fill the joints with plumbers caulk, fill the pipper with a hose attached to my kitchen hot tap and contemplate my privet.

Thanks all, this is a very interesting and friendly forum for the woodworking novice BTW. I know you are all probably bored with me now but I'm going to let you know how I get on anyway.

Thanks to everyone.

Regards

Blair