hardwood lipping

[jeffinfrance]

hi all,

i'm pricing a job for some custom fit wardrobes made from oak faced blockboard.

however, i have never lipped panels before.

i've got 7 cabinets and doors and 46 shelves, totalling nearly 125 linear metres. (lucky i got the tct tongue and groove set for the spindle moulder then)

is that the best way to do it, groove the panels and tongue the lipping? any ideas on best dimensions.

i'm hanging the doors on a hawa dorado 40 system. would it be best to only lip the side edges of the doors? wish i'd got the scoring blade for the table saw now!!!

how do you guys do the glue up? i havn't got that many clamps!!!! would a discreet brass pin do the job?

how long will it take me/you?

look forward to your thoughts,

all the best,

jeff

 

[Peter T]

https://www.ukworkshop.co.uk/forums/veneered-mdf-kitchen-units-t41610.html?highlight=lipping

Brad's method works very well. I can recommend it!

Just one thing. I added a couple of thin hardwood "runners" to the bottom of my mdf piece. They make it easier to slide and prevent sawdust building up underneath the sled.

 

[JoinerySolutions]

Jeff, a 'normal' practice that I and many of the workshops I have worked in, is to lip the panels with strips of wood barely wider than the veneered board, 6 to 12mm thick, glue on with pva or cascamite/extramite or whatever they call it now, and use masking tape to hold it in place.
You need a good quality tape and it is possible the most versatile and lightweight clamp you can buy...for the little jobs :wink:

For trimming off the waste, be sure to wipe off as much squeeze out as possible, a router with a grooved shop made base plate or a dedicated edging trimmer can be used.

The trouble with trying to make the edging the same thickness as the veneered board is that the boards can vary in thickness just enough to cause grief.

For the router base a piece of MDF with a hole for the cutter to plunge through drilled through a pre routed dado a little wider than the edging to be trimmed so it will ride easily over the top. For boards to be edged all round glue and trim the long sides first then the short ones next.
Finish with a sanding block or trusted sander.

Or get some practice with a sharp block plane, though 'dig in' is an issue!

Rob.

 

[jeffinfrance]

masking tape......brilliant,

so no need to tongue and groove either. what if my edges are exposed end grain? i might do that anyway from reading some of the other posts. shouldn't take too long to machine everything, then finish off with the rebate block on my spindle.

i reckon i can get that all done in two days. hmmmm, thats 10 metres an hour including ripping and planing.....maybe 2 and a half days.

would you lip the tops and bottoms of the sliding doors too?

thanks for the help,

all the best,

jeff

 

[joiner_sim]

If you are worried about exposed end grain, just mitre the lippings all the way around.

 

[jeffinfrance]

what i meant sim, was lipping onto end grain. surely it would be better to tongue and groove the lipping.

i think i'm going to anyway, be a good test of the latest felder setup.

i'll let you know how i get on.....if i get the job!

all the best,

jeff