Green oak advice

[mpooley]

Firstly Thanks to everone who has replied to this topic

I have found a very simple method of glazing to green oak in a book - uses no silicone! but does use glazing tape!

Have never heard of using lime mortar but not sure where you would need it anyway???

I have two more questions I assume you dont use glue at all in the large joints? is that right?

my design so far has the rafters @ 872mm centres can you get glass 3330mm by 850mm for a roof? will it take the strain ok?

or should i use polycarbonate?

thanks

mike

 

[RogerS]

single glazed or double glazed? weight of one single pane 4mm thick is 30kg (if my calculations are correct...based on 2.65gm/cu3)..so dgu will be 60kg.

maybe you'll need to hire one of these

 

[Digit]

Till the early fifties Lime mortar was the standard brick laying mortar. It's much softer and easier to use than cement mortar.
It has advantages and disadvantages. Cement mortar bonds to brick, Lime mortar doesn't.
The standard joke with brickies was 'cement keeps bricks together, lime keeps them apart.'
When used with timber construction Lime mortars are virtually a must as they will 'give', which cement mortars won't
They are sometimes mixed with cement mortars as well, pro advice might be a good idea.

Found this, it might help.

http://www.jjsharpe.co.uk/faq.html

Roy.

 

[RogerS]

Lime mortar breathes. It will absorb moisture and then release it. So if you're putting in brick infill panels, for example, into an oak framed building then the lime mortar will allow everything to breath. Portland cement won't. So as the oak expands./contracts you will get water ingress between the portland cement and the oak. That water just sits there and eventually starts to rot the oak as the oak never dries out. Then that gets the oak soft for all the beetles and woodborers to have a field day. Lime mortar lets the oak dry out.

Re-reading Mikes' OP, lime mortar isn't relevant to what he's doing. Really posted it in response to the suggestion to use silicon. Mind you, lime mortar definitely won't keep your glass in place :wink:

 

[mpooley]

single glazed or double glazed? weight of one single pane 4mm thick is 30kg (if my calculations are correct...based on 2.65gm/cu3)..so dgu will be 60kg.

maybe you'll need to hire one of these

Double glazing minimum thickness 6mm per sheet according to book - but it doesnt give any idea of maximum spans.
I will speak to some glaziers to find out.

ta

 

[jasonB]

No glue needed in the joints, just drill the peg holes to allow the peg to draw the joint together. Also use dry oak for the pegs.

Jason

 

[milkman]

Ditto the pegs and glue… primary beams and studs/braces should be pegged, primary and common rafters nailed at the eaves, pegged at the apex. Order your pegs well in advance, its a bit of a cottage industry and stuff doesn't always turn up on time!

Should this thread be moved into 'workshops…'?

 

[Digit]

I love that bit, just drill peg holes.
Like 1 inch in dia clean through 4 inches of Oak! You'll need a good power drill for that, or the old fashioned way of course, by hand.
I hope you're younger than me! :lol:

Roy.

 

[RogerS]

Ditto the pegs and glue… primary beams and studs/braces should be pegged, primary and common rafters nailed at the eaves, pegged at the apex. Order your pegs well in advance, its a bit of a cottage industry and stuff doesn't always turn up on time!

Should this thread be moved into 'workshops…'?

Or make your own. Drill hole in bit of scrap metal...something strong..then take square lengths of oak slightly larger than the hole and whack hard down through the hole.

 

[milkman]

Or make your own. Drill hole in bit of scrap metal...something strong..then take square lengths of oak slightly larger than the hole and whack hard down through the hole.

Pegs are usually tapered here and made on a shave horsee w. In the us US they use dowels. Advantage to the tapered ones I think is that the will find their way through the draw more easily and as they are cleft will be a lot stronger than something thats die driven or lathed., Also historically you could farm out the production as piece-work to people and they wouldn't have to have a lathe or die available..

 

[RogerS]

Mike

When you've finished working on the oak, spray your tools especially your drills bits with WD40. Just opened up my box of lip and spur drills to find them next to useless

Roger

 

[mpooley]

Mike

When you've finished working on the oak, spray your tools especially your drills bits with WD40. Just opened up my box of lip and spur drills to find them next to useless

Roger

I will thanks