Good Forum for water tank help ? ( or help me please)

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Greek Enigma

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Hi im very new to the internet
and only really know of this forum

Basically i need to make a lid for the water tank (cnt find one to fit this tank)

and its very hard to get to (dnt know who built my mums mobile home but omg Craaaaaaap)

what can i use...if anyone knows

thankyou :D
 
The only wood product that will withstand close proximity to water - and will not sag over time is a decent thickness of exterior ply (3/4 inch, 18/19mm).

Varnish or gloss paint finish for hygiene.

If fitting / shaping is tricky, then make a template out of 2 or 3mm mdf. If you make a mistake just tape / glue or staple a new overlapping piece onto the messed up edge and carry on until you are happy with the fit.

You will want an off cut from a joiner, or even a roofer (they use a lot of this for flat roofs) to avoid buying the full sheet.
 
Woodwizard":1fet29le said:
The only wood product that will withstand close proximity to water - and will not sag over time is a decent thickness of exterior ply (3/4 inch, 18/19mm).

Varnish or gloss paint finish for hygiene.

If fitting / shaping is tricky, then make a template out of 2 or 3mm mdf. If you make a mistake just tape / glue or staple a new overlapping piece onto the messed up edge and carry on until you are happy with the fit.

You will want an off cut from a joiner, or even a roofer (they use a lot of this for flat roofs) to avoid buying the full sheet.

huh i mean the lid!!

i cnt make that out of anywood

im thinking like this? http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 0408107487

help

thankyou
 
Woodwizard":2dy1ba70 said:
That should do nicely. But think about the mdf template if shaping is tricky.

im thinking to go into wickes and look for some type of plastic sheet (kinda like a real lid you can buy....except cnt find one for ours)

and then just bung it ontop of tank and drill to holes on each side and tie rope around it lol
 
or could i buy one somewhere
its a 6 gallon tank

but the 6 gallon lid i bought from toolstation doesnt fit (bit to small)
 
have a search on here about different types of plastics. Some will cut easily and others will be a right sod (brittle etc). I assume you want to arrange for the lit to have two or three edges (turned down sections)? If so look for a type of plastic that you can gently heat with a heat gun and then bend over a former.
How close will the lid be to the water? I ask as Fish Tanks lids are made from wood (chip board!) and cope with the condensation from the tank which suggests to me that if you made it out of Marine Ply you would be fine...
Whereabouts in BERKS are you?
Miles
 
Hi
Easiest material for you to cut and form is PVC. Cheapest is a type of this known as foamed pvc which is very light, semi rigid, fully waterproof and can be heat formed. Comes in a number of thicknesses.

What I would do if you have limited tools is cut a piece of foamed pvc to overlap all round and then fix a small section timber lipping all round which will hold it snug on to the sides of the tank. You could if feeling confident, carefully heat and bend the edges down instead.

You can buy on line or from a distributor such as Amari Plastics or better still, look for a signmaker or shopfitter local to you as they will have off cuts and you may get it free for asking. External signage is often made from this and screenprinted so an old sign may be available which can be cleaned up and used if you don't mind the writing.
Shopfitters also use polypropelene for wall cladding which is also suitable.

Pity you're no where near me 'cos I could have found you some.

cheers

Bob
 
I would replace the tank!

A 5 gallon F&E (feed and expansion) tank should cost about a tenner, with ballcock and lid. Wickes, any of the plumbing suppliers; City Plumbing, Wolseley etc, will have them for this type of money.
 
Pond":1epjap43 said:
I would replace the tank!

A 5 gallon F&E (feed and expansion) tank should cost about a tenner, with ballcock and lid. Wickes, any of the plumbing suppliers; City Plumbing, Wolseley etc, will have them for this type of money.

i was going to replace tank
but its so hard to get at to take old one out etc

so thought a quick lid will do ~(as this is only for hot water)

so it shouldnt really matter if has a lid or not i guess?????

just want a lid on it

as this is only for hot water would it be safe to use with no lid?

although i would prefer a lid

if not i might go the change whole tank route

thanks
 
It's not a wonderful idea to use it without a lid. Because the hot tank is below, it will get warm between uses and will eventually have stuff growing in it (rarely nasty, but annoying all the same).

There are any number of things you can use as a lid. one of the easiest is probably just a flat piece of polystyrene. This will help prevent it freezing in the winter.

You could also use plywood and pin a bit of polythene (strong bin bag?) to the underside (fold it up over the edges and pin on the top surface).

There is most probably an expansion pipe too. This goes up from the tank below and points down into the upper tank from above. It allows the hot water and air in the system somewhere to escape to, when the tank below warms up and the water/air expands. If there is one, you will need a hole in the lid for it too. If it's awkward (small ones are worse than bigger tanks), split the lid into two parts, so that the hole for the pipe is on the line of the split.

Also, most builders' merchants sell 'collapsible tanks'. These are circular and made of thin walled plastic (and they come with lids!), They're designed to fit through small openings: you warm them up, with a hot-air gun (be careful) or a fan heater, then scrunch them up through the loft hatch (or into the cupboard in your case), then let them return to their original shape.

Check to see if they do one small enough for your situation. If so, that's probably the best solution of all, but don't cut the old one up until you know you can replace it!

Final thought: at a guess from your picture, the shelf the tank is standing on would come out easily. If so, you don't need a collapsible one - any ordinary small tank could replace it from below (then fit the shelf back underneath the tank).

Hope something above helps!

E.
 
Eric The Viking":2vsvsade said:
It's not a wonderful idea to use it without a lid. Because the hot tank is below, it will get warm between uses and will eventually have stuff growing in it (rarely nasty, but annoying all the same).

There are any number of things you can use as a lid. one of the easiest is probably just a flat piece of polystyrene. This will help prevent it freezing in the winter.

You could also use plywood and pin a bit of polythene (strong bin bag?) to the underside (fold it up over the edges and pin on the top surface).

There is most probably an expansion pipe too. This goes up from the tank below and points down into the upper tank from above. It allows the hot water and air in the system somewhere to escape to, when the tank below warms up and the water/air expands. If there is one, you will need a hole in the lid for it too. If it's awkward (small ones are worse than bigger tanks), split the lid into two parts, so that the hole for the pipe is on the line of the split.

Also, most builders' merchants sell 'collapsible tanks'. These are circular and made of thin walled plastic (and they come with lids!), They're designed to fit through small openings: you warm them up, with a hot-air gun (be careful) or a fan heater, then scrunch them up through the loft hatch (or into the cupboard in your case), then let them return to their original shape.

Check to see if they do one small enough for your situation. If so, that's probably the best solution of all, but don't cut the old one up until you know you can replace it!

Final thought: at a guess from your picture, the shelf the tank is standing on would come out easily. If so, you don't need a collapsible one - any ordinary small tank could replace it from below (then fit the shelf back underneath the tank).

Hope something above helps!

E.

thanks for the long reply ma8

will get it done shortly

cheers
 
actually i cnt take nothing in at mo (major headache with all work got lately)

i just want to keep the tank in their (whats best way to clean it all out?)

then im going to go wickes and buy any type of plastic sheet that i can just rest on top

want that do?

as its only for hot water??

thanks and sorry such a headache
 
hi everyone

ok ive done too many posts lately

as im so stressed at the moment im going to focus on one thing at a time

THIS FOR NOW

ok so im going to go wickes tomorrow (i would change the whole tank...but some . has put some strong putty on
plus it would mean cutting/re-soldering pipe (blow tourch) length etc as cnt get 6 gal tanks no more)

so will any type of plastic be safe to use (foam pvc was mentioned to be used)

im only asking incase wickes dnt have a big variety of plastic sheets
 
ok went to buy some type of plastic sheet for the tank lid on
Saturday (went wickes and homebase)

couldn't find a daym thing!!!!

can someone help

anything on the net etc???
 
You need a large piece of plastic that you can cut a tank shaped lid from. When the lid is in place any condensation will drip back into the tank. I wouldn't worry too much about bending the lid around the tank just fit a framework of wood battons around the edge that will hug the tank sides.

Ok so where do you get a large piece of strong black plastic from ==== how about a cement mixing board sold by Wickes to mix morter on. Or Selco sell the black plastic version of cardboard designed to protect floors when work is being done.

But listen you must put a hole in the lid for the expansion pipe and of course you must make sure the expansion pipe goes through the hole and into the tank. Not into the water just into the tank. Also make sure the ball valve does not foul the lid when the tank is full of water this might cause the ball valve to keep filling and overflow out of the overflow pipe.

I seriously would not concider changing the tank. Major grief I am a time served plumber of 32 years and there's a lot of headaches there that you may come across, old 3/4 pipe as apposed to modern 22mm. A type of jointing compound called Stag the used to set rock hard. Nightmare!!!! This would not be a problem for me but if your not used to these problems you may end up violently assaulting yourself due to plumb-rage.

Check the expansion pipe has a bit of movement in it, up and down movement that is. Don't force it of course. Make the lid, drill the hole for the pipe, lift the pipe a little and slide the lid under the pipe but onto the top of the tank. When it is in the right position the lid will drop around the tank and the expansion pipe will drop into the whole.

If there is no movement in the pipe you don't want to force it unless it kinks. Make the lid in two pieces.

Also because the tank is indoors you dont need an insulation jacket around the tank but if you fit one it will reduce the noise of the tank filling up.

I hope this helps.

Cheers Alan
 
La Gib":z73kjcvw said:
You need a large piece of plastic that you can cut a tank shaped lid from. When the lid is in place any condensation will drip back into the tank. I wouldn't worry too much about bending the lid around the tank just fit a framework of wood battons around the edge that will hug the tank sides.

Ok so where do you get a large piece of strong black plastic from ==== how about a cement mixing board sold by Wickes to mix morter on. Or Selco sell the black plastic version of cardboard designed to protect floors when work is being done.

But listen you must put a hole in the lid for the expansion pipe and of course you must make sure the expansion pipe goes through the hole and into the tank. Not into the water just into the tank. Also make sure the ball valve does not foul the lid when the tank is full of water this might cause the ball valve to keep filling and overflow out of the overflow pipe.

I seriously would not concider changing the tank. Major grief I am a time served plumber of 32 years and there's a lot of headaches there that you may come across, old 3/4 pipe as apposed to modern 22mm. A type of jointing compound called Stag the used to set rock hard. Nightmare!!!! This would not be a problem for me but if your not used to these problems you may end up violently assaulting yourself due to plumb-rage.

Check the expansion pipe has a bit of movement in it, up and down movement that is. Don't force it of course. Make the lid, drill the hole for the pipe, lift the pipe a little and slide the lid under the pipe but onto the top of the tank. When it is in the right position the lid will drop around the tank and the expansion pipe will drop into the whole.

If there is no movement in the pipe you don't want to force it unless it kinks. Make the lid in two pieces.

Also because the tank is indoors you dont need an insulation jacket around the tank but if you fit one it will reduce the noise of the tank filling up.

I hope this helps.

Cheers Alan

Hi ma8

yeah im pretty good with plumbing
i fitted the green immersion heater you see under the tank
plus other stuff before like toilets baths etc

and fitted tanks ballvales etc

its just this is awkward (i would change tank but dnt want to due to how its been done)

it would be easier to make a lid (something i have never done..just finding some pvc board somewhere)

also as this is only for hot water... i dnt think the lid is going to be to big a deal so some pvc board just lieing on top (no edges curved should be fine if you ask me)

i just couldnt see anything in wickes at all

so ebay now it looks like
 
Old estate agent for-sale boards or other advertising boards are good - about 6mm thick twin-wall plastic material with a hollow core. Or for something a bit stronger, an offcut of conservatory roofing material - twin wall or triple wall polycarbonate.

But don't worry too much about it - a larger number of water tanks get by without a lid, or with any old bit of board laid over them.

Dee
 

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