Woodwizard":1fet29le said:The only wood product that will withstand close proximity to water - and will not sag over time is a decent thickness of exterior ply (3/4 inch, 18/19mm).
Varnish or gloss paint finish for hygiene.
If fitting / shaping is tricky, then make a template out of 2 or 3mm mdf. If you make a mistake just tape / glue or staple a new overlapping piece onto the messed up edge and carry on until you are happy with the fit.
You will want an off cut from a joiner, or even a roofer (they use a lot of this for flat roofs) to avoid buying the full sheet.
Woodwizard":2dy1ba70 said:That should do nicely. But think about the mdf template if shaping is tricky.
Pond":1epjap43 said:I would replace the tank!
A 5 gallon F&E (feed and expansion) tank should cost about a tenner, with ballcock and lid. Wickes, any of the plumbing suppliers; City Plumbing, Wolseley etc, will have them for this type of money.
Eric The Viking":2vsvsade said:It's not a wonderful idea to use it without a lid. Because the hot tank is below, it will get warm between uses and will eventually have stuff growing in it (rarely nasty, but annoying all the same).
There are any number of things you can use as a lid. one of the easiest is probably just a flat piece of polystyrene. This will help prevent it freezing in the winter.
You could also use plywood and pin a bit of polythene (strong bin bag?) to the underside (fold it up over the edges and pin on the top surface).
There is most probably an expansion pipe too. This goes up from the tank below and points down into the upper tank from above. It allows the hot water and air in the system somewhere to escape to, when the tank below warms up and the water/air expands. If there is one, you will need a hole in the lid for it too. If it's awkward (small ones are worse than bigger tanks), split the lid into two parts, so that the hole for the pipe is on the line of the split.
Also, most builders' merchants sell 'collapsible tanks'. These are circular and made of thin walled plastic (and they come with lids!), They're designed to fit through small openings: you warm them up, with a hot-air gun (be careful) or a fan heater, then scrunch them up through the loft hatch (or into the cupboard in your case), then let them return to their original shape.
Check to see if they do one small enough for your situation. If so, that's probably the best solution of all, but don't cut the old one up until you know you can replace it!
Final thought: at a guess from your picture, the shelf the tank is standing on would come out easily. If so, you don't need a collapsible one - any ordinary small tank could replace it from below (then fit the shelf back underneath the tank).
Hope something above helps!
E.
La Gib":z73kjcvw said:You need a large piece of plastic that you can cut a tank shaped lid from. When the lid is in place any condensation will drip back into the tank. I wouldn't worry too much about bending the lid around the tank just fit a framework of wood battons around the edge that will hug the tank sides.
Ok so where do you get a large piece of strong black plastic from ==== how about a cement mixing board sold by Wickes to mix morter on. Or Selco sell the black plastic version of cardboard designed to protect floors when work is being done.
But listen you must put a hole in the lid for the expansion pipe and of course you must make sure the expansion pipe goes through the hole and into the tank. Not into the water just into the tank. Also make sure the ball valve does not foul the lid when the tank is full of water this might cause the ball valve to keep filling and overflow out of the overflow pipe.
I seriously would not concider changing the tank. Major grief I am a time served plumber of 32 years and there's a lot of headaches there that you may come across, old 3/4 pipe as apposed to modern 22mm. A type of jointing compound called Stag the used to set rock hard. Nightmare!!!! This would not be a problem for me but if your not used to these problems you may end up violently assaulting yourself due to plumb-rage.
Check the expansion pipe has a bit of movement in it, up and down movement that is. Don't force it of course. Make the lid, drill the hole for the pipe, lift the pipe a little and slide the lid under the pipe but onto the top of the tank. When it is in the right position the lid will drop around the tank and the expansion pipe will drop into the whole.
If there is no movement in the pipe you don't want to force it unless it kinks. Make the lid in two pieces.
Also because the tank is indoors you dont need an insulation jacket around the tank but if you fit one it will reduce the noise of the tank filling up.
I hope this helps.
Cheers Alan
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