Good drill bits for stainless steel

[Beau]

Going to be doing a fair bit of drilling stainless and wont be able to easily get the item under the drill press. Wondering what bits are best plus any recommended lubricants. Only small holes around 4.5mm through 2mm plate. Previous experience of drilling stainless have been patchy.

 

[jimmy_s]

I used to do a fair bit of stainless fabrication. We used to just use a normal HSS bit with Rocol cutting fluid.

Drilling holes in stainless without a decent cutting fluid tends to dull the drill bit quite quickly, especially with a hand drill where the drill speed may be too high.

That's what I would recommend trying - makes a huge difference.

 

[Beau]

I used to do a fair bit of stainless fabrication. We used to just use a normal HSS bit with Rocol cutting fluid.

Drilling holes in stainless without a decent cutting fluid tends to dull the drill bit quite quickly, especially with a hand drill where the drill speed may be too high.

That's what I would recommend trying - makes a huge difference.

Worth the extra for Dormer bits?

 

[sunnybob]

Stainless needs to be drilled SLOWLY.

A powered hand drill speed is most likely going to be too fast and the drill will go dull very (VERY) quickly

You need to be able to see the flutes of the drill while its turning, about 600 to 700 rpm. keep a steady firm pressure all the way through.

 

[Beau]

More good info. Thanks guys

 

[TFrench]

Don't buy dormer. At work we do stainless cladding, mainly with 0.5mm sheet but we quite often have to fix into thicker. We always used to use dormer but they've changed recently - they're a lot more brittle and its very easy to snap them in stainless. We've gone to reca now - I'd say they last about a third longer at least. Not sure how much extra it is but they also do double ended bits which are what we use. They're not a lot extra and you get twice as much wear from each bit.
http://uk.reca.com/products/hss-drills.html

 

[porker]

I'd agree. Nice and slow with fluid and keep the pressure on as stainless work hardens easily if the drill rubs.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk

 

[Bod]

Keep the drill sharp!
If you don't know how to sharpen now, you will by the time you've finished.

Bod

 

[woodfarmer]

I do a fair bit of work in stainless, usually en316l. The best drill bits by far that I have come across are these. Axminster Standard Cobalt HSS Drill Bits from Axminster. Use at slow speed, keep them cutting and stop when they get hot and allow to cool. You buy them individually.

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-co ... ts-ax21744

 

[Hitch]

Dormer A108 bits are good for stainless.
I steer clear of cobalt bits for using in pistol drill, they hold good edge, but seem to snap easier.

 

[Harbo]

The Reca stuff looks interesting but I couldn't find any prices or how to order?

Rod

 

[John Brown]

Many years ago I worked on giant washing machines (think laundry/hospital - you could easily stand up in the drum). Some had stanless steel frontplates, and my mentor(in metalwork and guitar playing) at the factory used a centre punch sharpened to a triangular point. He reckoned that a normal centre punch work-hardened the metal, whereas the triangular one didn't(or not so much).

 

[woodpig]

Just don't let the drill bit rub or you'll work harden the material DAMHIKT. I had to heat the item cherry red to anneal it. :roll: The alternative is a carbide drill. I've had to open up some holes in some tough steels recently and a glass/tile drill does the job if you work slowly.

 

[TFrench]

The Reca stuff looks interesting but I couldn't find any prices or how to order?

Rod

We have a rep that comes to us, they supply quite a few of the fabbing companies and pipefitters we work with. Its ridiculous they don't even have a list of local reps on their website! Try emailing them to find out who your local guy is? Backwards way to run a business in this day and age!

 

[woodfarmer]

Dormer A108 bits are good for stainless.
I steer clear of cobalt bits for using in pistol drill, they hold good edge, but seem to snap easier.

I mostly use with work clamped and in pillar drill. they don't bend much, unlike the Botche hexagon shanked drills which are useless for anything harder than a ripe Camembert cheese.