Quantcast
  • We invite you to join UKWorkshop.
    Members can turn off viewing Ads!

Good drill bits for stainless steel

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

Beau

Established Member
Joined
23 Mar 2015
Messages
1,877
Reaction score
10
Location
Devon
Going to be doing a fair bit of drilling stainless and wont be able to easily get the item under the drill press. Wondering what bits are best plus any recommended lubricants. Only small holes around 4.5mm through 2mm plate. Previous experience of drilling stainless have been patchy.
 

jimmy_s

Established Member
Joined
10 Nov 2013
Messages
226
Reaction score
9
Location
Dunfermline
I used to do a fair bit of stainless fabrication. We used to just use a normal HSS bit with Rocol cutting fluid.

Drilling holes in stainless without a decent cutting fluid tends to dull the drill bit quite quickly, especially with a hand drill where the drill speed may be too high.

That's what I would recommend trying - makes a huge difference.
 

Beau

Established Member
Joined
23 Mar 2015
Messages
1,877
Reaction score
10
Location
Devon
jimmy_s":1atxtwua said:
I used to do a fair bit of stainless fabrication. We used to just use a normal HSS bit with Rocol cutting fluid.

Drilling holes in stainless without a decent cutting fluid tends to dull the drill bit quite quickly, especially with a hand drill where the drill speed may be too high.

That's what I would recommend trying - makes a huge difference.
Worth the extra for Dormer bits?
 

sunnybob

wysiwyg
Joined
11 Oct 2014
Messages
8,399
Reaction score
160
Location
cyprus
Stainless needs to be drilled SLOWLY.

A powered hand drill speed is most likely going to be too fast and the drill will go dull very (VERY) quickly

You need to be able to see the flutes of the drill while its turning, about 600 to 700 rpm. keep a steady firm pressure all the way through.
 

TFrench

Established Member
Joined
6 Jul 2015
Messages
1,266
Reaction score
96
Location
Leics
Don't buy dormer. At work we do stainless cladding, mainly with 0.5mm sheet but we quite often have to fix into thicker. We always used to use dormer but they've changed recently - they're a lot more brittle and its very easy to snap them in stainless. We've gone to reca now - I'd say they last about a third longer at least. Not sure how much extra it is but they also do double ended bits which are what we use. They're not a lot extra and you get twice as much wear from each bit.
http://uk.reca.com/products/hss-drills.html
 

porker

Established Member
Joined
15 Oct 2009
Messages
665
Reaction score
50
Location
Butlers Cross, Buckinghamshire
I'd agree. Nice and slow with fluid and keep the pressure on as stainless work hardens easily if the drill rubs.

Sent from my SM-G920F using Tapatalk
 

Bod

Established Member
Joined
18 Nov 2013
Messages
1,001
Reaction score
33
Location
Wiltshire.
Keep the drill sharp!
If you don't know how to sharpen now, you will by the time you've finished.

Bod
 

Hitch

Established Member
Joined
28 Jan 2006
Messages
639
Reaction score
0
Location
Somerset
Dormer A108 bits are good for stainless.
I steer clear of cobalt bits for using in pistol drill, they hold good edge, but seem to snap easier.
 

Harbo

Established Member
Joined
13 Nov 2006
Messages
5,548
Reaction score
1
Location
Hampshire
The Reca stuff looks interesting but I couldn't find any prices or how to order?

Rod
 

John Brown

Established Member
Joined
25 Sep 2008
Messages
1,649
Reaction score
40
Location
Stinchcombe, Gloucestershire
Many years ago I worked on giant washing machines (think laundry/hospital - you could easily stand up in the drum). Some had stanless steel frontplates, and my mentor(in metalwork and guitar playing) at the factory used a centre punch sharpened to a triangular point. He reckoned that a normal centre punch work-hardened the metal, whereas the triangular one didn't(or not so much).
 

woodpig

Established Member
Joined
17 Sep 2011
Messages
2,433
Reaction score
0
Location
Dorset
Just don't let the drill bit rub or you'll work harden the material DAMHIKT. I had to heat the item cherry red to anneal it. :roll: The alternative is a carbide drill. I've had to open up some holes in some tough steels recently and a glass/tile drill does the job if you work slowly.
 

TFrench

Established Member
Joined
6 Jul 2015
Messages
1,266
Reaction score
96
Location
Leics
Harbo":2fvgkv7d said:
The Reca stuff looks interesting but I couldn't find any prices or how to order?

Rod
We have a rep that comes to us, they supply quite a few of the fabbing companies and pipefitters we work with. Its ridiculous they don't even have a list of local reps on their website! Try emailing them to find out who your local guy is? Backwards way to run a business in this day and age!
 

woodfarmer

Established Member
Joined
10 Sep 2013
Messages
1,236
Reaction score
0
Location
poitiers
Hitch":1zof0mdh said:
Dormer A108 bits are good for stainless.
I steer clear of cobalt bits for using in pistol drill, they hold good edge, but seem to snap easier.

I mostly use with work clamped and in pillar drill. they don't bend much, unlike the Botche hexagon shanked drills which are useless for anything harder than a ripe Camembert cheese.
 
Top