Flat files for hardened steel
- Thread starter Beau
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MikeG.
Established Member
Bahco are good files. If they aren't lasting long then I doubt you'll get much more life from another brand.
I've ground them before on a six inch grinder - you just need to be careful to test for square on some scrap.
Bought myself a Oregon powersharp chain kit for my chainsaw and have never sharpened a chain since, worth it if you are only a hobby user, so easy: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KlACYDhYh40
Mike
Mike
Robbo3
Established Member
That's interesting. £25 + chain at Screwfix, but do you still have to file the rakers (depth stops) by hand?MikeJhn":26e1zagi said:
The Stihl 2-in-1 EasyFile claims to do both in one go but it's by hand & £40
- https://www.stihl.co.uk/STIHL-Products/ ... yFile.aspx
I have never put a file on the Oregon chain, just take the sharpening stone attachment out to where I am cutting and give it a sharpen when the chips are getting a bit smaller than normal, the mistake I made with my first chain was sharpening too much, only a few seconds is needed to fully sharpen the chain, I would not go back to a conventional chain, in fact I am looking at the Oregon LiIo chainsaw with the built in sharpening attachment to supplement my Stihl.
https://www.screwfix.com/p/oregon-cs300 ... GwodrmwJ7w
Mike
https://www.screwfix.com/p/oregon-cs300 ... GwodrmwJ7w
Mike
MikeJhn":12pij0eo said:
Thanks Mike but it's the bar ware that is the problem and they need dressing on a regular basis.
Very much Pro use required I am afraid. Amongst other things I have to maintain the chains and bar on this which can munch through 18 tonnes of timber on a good day which takes it toll on bars and chains https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_cont ... tmZ0J7HH30
Beau
Understood, Academic question how do you know that the bar on a conventional chainsaw needs dressing is it just that the chain keeps falling off or getting jammed?
Just thought I would add, I am an Arthritis sufferer and the action of holding and sharpening a chain is just the sort of action that would put me out for the rest of the day, IOW the Oregon system has been a god send for me.
Mike
Understood, Academic question how do you know that the bar on a conventional chainsaw needs dressing is it just that the chain keeps falling off or getting jammed?
Just thought I would add, I am an Arthritis sufferer and the action of holding and sharpening a chain is just the sort of action that would put me out for the rest of the day, IOW the Oregon system has been a god send for me.
Mike
MikeJhn":1vmfhtil said:
When they get bad they dont want to cut straight. This is more of a problem on my machine as with a saw to some extent you can follow the cut but as the bar on the machine cant waver it is very sensitive to bar ware and I have to dress them at least once a week. Most hobby saws I see (and pro ones for that matter) could do with a bit of TLC on the bar. Also they can develop heavy burrs on the edge of the bar.
I will have look see in the shed to see if I have any that are worn enough to show up on pictures
Edit. scrub that Rob D has done a great video on the subject https://www.chainsawbars.co.uk/guide-bar-care/
and Oregon files on that page lasts 5 mins. The Bahco are much better
Sorry Mike I edited the post. Have a look at the link in it as it will explain much better than I can. It's not just the burrs though as the bars edge can get unevenly worn so not square. As it's what supports the chain in the cut the chain will sit at and angle and want to cut curves. Like losing the set on one side of a handsaw
Woody2Shoes
Impressive Member
In the stone-paper-scissors game of working with hard steel, I like to play with diamonds(!).
Bar dressing/de-burring looks like the kind of job that a coarse-ish diamond plate would be ideal for if you have to do it regularly - I only do it once in a blue moon, with a coarse bit of wet-and-dry on a stick.
Cheers, W2S
Bar dressing/de-burring looks like the kind of job that a coarse-ish diamond plate would be ideal for if you have to do it regularly - I only do it once in a blue moon, with a coarse bit of wet-and-dry on a stick.
Cheers, W2S
Woody2Shoes":8jj7w3qt said:
Thats a good idea Woody I had not thought of
At present I use one of these for holding the file http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.a ... 89&p=32631 but sure I could make something to hold an appropriate diamond plate.
Any recommends for diamond plates that would be aggressive enough?
NickN
Established Member
Something like:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/DMT-D6X-6-Inch ... B001BYDLUK
Ought to work pretty well, in whatever size works best for your setup.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/DMT-D6X-6-Inch ... B001BYDLUK
Ought to work pretty well, in whatever size works best for your setup.
akdaka
Member
I have always used Oregon files for dressing guide bars and have had no issues.
As an alternative saw one of this in my local suppliers the other day.
http://www.premiumsawchain.co.uk/it...MInabNnsfj1wIVCwHTCh01tQKeEAQYBCABEgIEW_D_BwE
As an alternative saw one of this in my local suppliers the other day.
http://www.premiumsawchain.co.uk/it...MInabNnsfj1wIVCwHTCh01tQKeEAQYBCABEgIEW_D_BwE
akdaka":2donsswd said:
Yes I have one of those. The file is very aggressive and good for a short while on the softer bars like the Oregon ones but the Stihl and Sugihara bars are appreciably harder and it soon started skidding over and not biting into the steel like when new. The less aggressive second cut Bahco is slightly slower when new but holds it's edge for longer just hoped there was another step up in quality again.
Perhaps the ideal dresser for the edge's of the bar would be something like a ski edge dresser, they tend to have very good files in them to dress the hard steel edge's of ski's, I have one in the loft somewhere, may dig it out and have a go.
Mike
Mike
