fitting infill scribed pieces to cabinets

[tezza111]

Hello

To those that work on fitted furniture regularly. After advice on here I've successfully used the methods
from the likes of Jason B etc on Infill pieces to the sides of alcove work so thanks for all there help I've had in the past.

I usually use a piece of 6mm or 12mm for the front (shown) piece and a piece of 18mm for the part of the L shape that hides in the infill gap. I usually glue and pin the front piece over the hidden piece.

Ive found whilst this method works a treat (especially if you want the scribe to fall flush with the door) when I screw through the inside of the carcass to fix the infill it tends to twist the piece out of alignment.

I can't work out what Im doing wrong but its always a struggle to get it to fit perfectly.

Can anyone offer any decent techniques that Im missing......I.e placement of screw holes in the carcass etc or should I
screw the L shape infill together to offer better holding power. Im always struggling with this really need some help

Tel

 

[carlb40]

Is the edge of the infill that fits against the cabinet nice and square? What i normally do on kitchens is make sure it's a nice tight fit. Fix a batten to the wall, set back the thickness of the infill. Glue the infill to the batten and fix through the carcass when dried. Or if i remember to do the infill before fitting the worktops, i do as above with the batten and use a couple of connecter blocks/ brackets to fix the infill to the batten. If the space is very narrow, i fix the blocks/ bracket to the batten first then reach over and fix through into the panel once fitted, then fix through the carcass.

 

[tezza111]

Thanks Carl.....Yes all edges are square cut on a flat beam saw. Some good ideas there for the future so thank you. Im starting to wonder whether the L shape thing is flawed. Its clever but its very difficult to stop the piece twisting as you fix throughout the carcass. It tends to pull the infill piece inward a a 10 degree angle or so toward the door/carcass. I can get over it with filler....feathered off as this is painted mdf work, but i'd rather have it all square and not rely on filler.
Its also very difficult to get it perfectly square running down the length. When your trying to square/flush it up with a door that you have taken off! for ease of access to fit the piece!......I find this the hardest part of fitted furniture.

I might try some of your methods next time Carl, but if anyone can add to the L shape method i'd appreciate it

Cheers

Tel

 

[carlb40]

Yeah i think the L shape is what is causing the issue especially if you are making it at 90 degrees and the walls are out. To stick with your method i would fix the cabinet in place, then run a straight edge across the front meeting at the wall. I would then use a bevel to find the angle where the straight edge meets the wall. Then make your L shape filler to that angle.

 

[tezza111]

Im wondering whether pulling the cabinet out and fixing the hidden inside support upright first would be better though the support piece and then into the carcass. At least you can guarantee getting it fixed solidly and upright. Then sliding the cabinet back and nailing the face part over it would be more effective than fixing through carcass. I suppose its going to be apt easier to do this on low level alcove cabs than full height alcove wardrobes!

Dunno......anyone got any expertise?

Tel

 

[tezza111]

Cheers Carl.........think we posted at the same time so ignore my last post. Tel

 

[mailee]

Strangely enough I have just done this job this afternoon and use the same 'L'shaped method as you. I glue and brad a length of 6mm to some 18mm to make the infill. I mark out the hinge points on the carcass and then drill holes through the carcass so they are hidden by the hinges. I then place the infill strip on the side of the carcass in the position it will be in once fitted and drill pilot holes into the infill through the carcass. I then countersink these holes in the infill piece so I can pick them up with the screw later. Once on site after the cabinet is squared up and in place I scribe the infill and jigsaw it to the line with the blade angled away from the face. Starting at the bottom I put the first screw through into the countersink and just nip it. I then work my way up the infill fitting the screws pushing the infill back until I can feel the countersinks and starting the screws. When all of the screws are in I then tighten them fully which pulls the face of the infill square and flush. (If the scribe is done accurately) HTH. :wink:

 

[tezza111]

Thanks Alan.

Thats pretty much what I've been trying to do.....but I take on board the importance of pilot holing first. For some reason though Im still not sure that it will prevent the face piece leaning inward, but I will give it a try tomorrow when Im back at the job.

Thanks for taking the time to reply.....on this particular job the client wanted the sides flush with the doors....but the plinth inset 30mm. This means that even the hidden upright fixing piece had to be cut on site as otherwise there would be a gap under the plinth on the return piece. I think having a flush plinth too would make life easier and you could then do most of the work in the shed.

Im still learning.....everyday......cheers Alan

 

[chippy1970]

Tezza , all it can be is that you haven't done a decent clearance hole in the carcase. That would push the L infil out of square if the hole wasn't big enough.

Sent from my HTC One using Tapatalk

 

[mailee]

What chippy has stated is a good point which I forgot to mention. FYI the way your customer wanted the infill is pretty much how mine are although the trims on this one were behind the doors. I use a ladder frame for the base which sits inside the skirting and is set back from the front edge of the carcass. I then attach a false front on the frame which is scribed into the skirting. I then run the infill from the skirting top to the top of the carcass and the top of this is then hidden by the cornice. To scribe the infill on site I notch the 18mm pieces to fit over the bottom under the top and any shelves and hold it onto the inside of the carcass while it is scribed. Once trimmed it is then attached to the outside of the carcass where if all has gone well it should be a perfect fit.....fingers crossed. :lol: Are you cutting the scribe with an angle on it as this also helps due to the thin edge which allows a little bit of flex to the wall? Good luck for tomorrow. :wink:

 

[tezza111]

Thanks Chippy and Alan. Ive noted all of above.....Out of 4 infills I've got one to finish tomorrow and one to improve on.
I'll take the advice and see if I can get them sorted and hopefully next time will be better and less stress.

Thanks again to all who have helped.

Tel

 

[tezza111]

Thanks everyone whom offered advice. I got them sorted today. I made a decent size clearance hole and marked through into the infill and made a small pilot into these. The result was they pulled up tight and square! Thanks again to those that offered advice.

Tel

 

[mailee]

I am glad to hear you got it sorted Tez. Should go much easier next time. :wink:

 

[tezza111]

Thanks Alan

I'll get these cabinets finished tomoz fully painted so I'll post a picture........there nothing flash just bread and butter.

Thanks for your help Alan

Tel