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drum revolving around screw rod

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I am making a drum carder for carding wool for spinning. I have cut circles for the drums, and intend to use a threaded rod that goes through the circles. Can anyone advise me how to stop the drum revolving around the screw rod. I tried tee nuts but they dont go all the way through the circles, and when I screwed the rod through the nuts started to work out.
 

bosshogg

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You could apply some epoxy resin at the holes/threads, put some plumbers PTFE tape around the affected areas if they require to be taken out at any point...bosshogg :)
 

twothumbs

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Not too sure if I fully understand what it is you are doing, but.........here is a try......Nuts (or doiuble nuts) on both sides with penny washers beneath them cranked up tight. Does this help?
 
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All good ideas, but I was thinking is there anything that would go through the holes in the wood like the tee nuts, but more secure as the tee nuts didnt sink into the wood easily,when I whacked them, as you do I split the first circle for the smaller drum and had to make another one.
 

9fingers

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Christine Eyton":3tzfbu2r said:
All good ideas, but I was thinking is there anything that would go through the holes in the wood like the tee nuts, but more secure as the tee nuts didnt sink into the wood easily,when I whacked them, as you do I split the first circle for the smaller drum and had to make another one.
Best way to fit Tee nuts into a delicate material is to pull if through with bolt and washer that is at least the same diameter as the flange of the tee nut.

Bob
 

9fingers

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Have you tried tee nuts with locking nuts? I can't imagine those coming undone.
The other way would be proper bosses and axles as shown in your photo.

Bob
 
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Thanks, I need to find out what locking nuts are, also what are bosses and axles and where am I likely to find them. I am new to this kind of thing I just thought I could make a drum carder for a fractionof the price they cost
 

9fingers

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OK. A locking nut is a standard nut that you tighten firmly against the tee nut and the pair grip the threaded rod.
A bit like this http://www.the-warren.org/GCSERevision/ ... ngnuts.gif
The bosses and axles are most likely to be made to suit the project from stock sized materials. Teaming up with a local hobby metal worker in a shed near you would be the best solution.

Is this hand powered or are you going to drive it with a motor?

Bob
 

MickCheese

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Are you able to drill a piece of wood the length of the distance between the two circles? Then you could put your rod through the first circle, through the hole down the middle of the piece of wood and then the second circle, it would then give the two circles and the nuts something to push against. If you then use large washers and nylock nuts http://www.nylocknut.com/ I don't think they would work loose.

Mick
 

bugbear

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Christine Eyton":33ootpul said:
Thanks, I need to find out what locking nuts are, also what are bosses and axles and where am I likely to find them. I am new to this kind of thing I just thought I could make a drum carder for a fractionof the price they cost
Making your own equipment if often (extremely) satisfying but not always a money saver. The factories can get cheap material in bulk, and can justify ("amortise") the cost of fancy jigs, setups and tooling.

BugBear
 
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with trial and error the cost should come under a £100, the cheapest drum carder on the market is £235. I also want to make a picker they cost over £200, and can be made for a fraction of the cost also, wool combs about £100, my hobby needs these accessories and I can make them much cheaper.I hope.
the length of wood down the middle would be good but make the drum heavyier to turn. It will be manual. I am going to use locking nuts with the tee nuts as suggested earlier.Thanks everyone for your suggestions.
 

DaveyP

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I've done a google and looked at some pictures of drum carders..

Is the weight of the drum really an issue ?

I'd be inclined to 'turn' (sorry) the drums either as a single piece or at least as two quite wide end pieces (at least 1/4 of the width each) with the washers and back nuts or a spacer if you can make one, to hold them apart as previously suggested.
 

9fingers

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Another approach.....

How about making the threaded rod fixed - simply as a pivot for the drum and then adding a handle on one end of the drum to turn it with.
That way there is no need for the tightness of the nuts etc to transmit the turning torque to the drum.

Just a thought

Bob
 

bugbear

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Perhaps the various fixings used to hold grinding wheels and buffing mops on grinder shafts might have potential?

BugBear
 
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Bob,
Your suggestion is what I intended, If I put ordinary nuts on the inside of the drum and sccrew locking nuts on the outside I think that will work.
Bugbear,
I will look at your idea too.
also does anyone know if there is anything that goes through the holes in the sides of the carder that stop the axle from wearing as it turns( see picture
 

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9fingers

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A couple of short lengths of tube with the right bore to suit your threaded rod will make a better bearing surface. It is still a crude bearing but OK for hand powered use and will wear less than the wood would have done.
These tubular bushes can be glued into the wooden cheeks with some epoxy. Use the threaded rod to make sure the bushes stay in line and rub some wax or grease into the threads to make sure any excess epoxy does not stick the bushes to the threads.

Bob
 
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