Grantx
Established Member
Tabletop will be 45mm thick Beech and the frame is Oak.
What would you do to improve it?
What would you do to improve it?
Does this table design look strong enough?
- Thread starter Grantx
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Grantx
Established Member
Grantx
Established Member
What's the best way to join them? I was thinking pocket screws?
doctor Bob
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That's a very high table?
Grantx
Established Member
Are you saying Mortice and tenon for the rails to the legs and pocket screws for the cross braces to the rails? With a coach bolt going through the center of brace into the leg?
I will make the rails 150mm wide.
Grantx
Established Member
It's for a bakery.
I'd be tempted to put an overhang on the top but it is up to the customer on aesthetics.
Could do with some fixings to allow the top to move in different conditions, the ones that screw to the worktop and then go into a groove in the rails, usually cut on a table saw or with a track saw. Unless they're already there then ignore the fixings point lol. Link below to explain what I mean.
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/...-a-table-top-with-traditional-wooden-buttons/
Could do with some fixings to allow the top to move in different conditions, the ones that screw to the worktop and then go into a groove in the rails, usually cut on a table saw or with a track saw. Unless they're already there then ignore the fixings point lol. Link below to explain what I mean.
https://www.popularwoodworking.com/...-a-table-top-with-traditional-wooden-buttons/
Jameshow
Established Member
Pretty much - if it's for a bakery I think you want it as solid as possible.
Inspector
Nyuck, Nyuck, Nyuck!
Better than a coach bolt is a Hanger bolt. It has wood threads on one half and machine threads on the other end for a nut and washer. You will need a couple big ones for each corner.
Pocket screws are the wrong angle to hold the diagonal brace when you want maximum holding. The holes should be perpendicular to the mating face of the apron. Use a forstner bit to start the hole and give a square face for the screw head and then finish with a bit so the screw slides through. Put glue on the corner block and then drive the screws, preferably washer head, into the rails. Carefully pre-drilling the holes in the apron the diameter if the roots/bottom of the screw threads makes them easier to drive in without splitting.
How do you plan on holding the top to the apron.
The picture illustrates what I'm talking about. The hanger bolt threads are 5/16"diameter. I think you will want 3/8" or equivalent metric. Pre-drill the leg for them too. The two Robertson screws are holding the top but have bigger holes to allow for wood movement, metal clips hold the rest. The table is small, 24"/600mm square but the principle is the same. On this table the legs are not attached to the apron as the hanger bolt is enough and it was meant to be for takedown for easy moving. The round thing on the apron is a magnet meant to hold a skirt.
Pete
pe2dave
Established Member
Unless it's a table to store elephants, I'd say it's more than strong enough for people.
Edit: I do wonder how necessary (for strength) the stretchers are?
Edit: I do wonder how necessary (for strength) the stretchers are?
Last edited:
Kicked Back
Established Member
Definitely do mortise and tenons. The legs are so thick that you can easily make nice fat mortises with just a router and a plywood template. If you have access to a bandsaw, the tenons become a piece of cake as well.
I made a huge workbench and did 12 mortise and tenons that way, having never done them before, in about 3 hours. All perfect, all incredibly strong. Prior to putting the stretchers on, the design more closely mimicked yours, although with thinner legs (60x100mm) and perhaps a larger span (~3m), and it just doesn't move.
I made a huge workbench and did 12 mortise and tenons that way, having never done them before, in about 3 hours. All perfect, all incredibly strong. Prior to putting the stretchers on, the design more closely mimicked yours, although with thinner legs (60x100mm) and perhaps a larger span (~3m), and it just doesn't move.
An unusual combination of woods and expensive too ! More utilitarian woods like sycamore and poplar would look just a good and are at least half the price. Its a very tall table not to have stretchers but I think possible with very strong M+T joints. The rails should be recessed from the legs and not flush. I would make the top overhang which always looks better and the legs could be reduced to something like 60 x 60 mm.
A solid wood top will always move with the seasons and allow for that in construction.
A solid wood top will always move with the seasons and allow for that in construction.
Inspector
Nyuck, Nyuck, Nyuck!
Grantx would you clarify what the table is for? I think it is for pounding and rolling dough where others might see it as an eating table and that is why different recommendations on sizing come into play.
Pete
Pete
Grantx
Established Member
Designer1 - thanks for the suggestion. Ill go with your recommendation and use wooden buttons.
Inspector - Hanger bolts it is. I didn't know that about pocket screws, I will instead go with your recommendation and screw in perpendicular to the apron mating face. Just wondering about your suggestion of not attaching the legs to the apron. So you are saying the legs are pulled into place with that single hanger bolt? That will provide adequate strength for lateral forces?
Kicked Back - thanks for the suggestion. If I do mortice and tenons do you recommend I glue them in or just make them a tap fit? I'm just going to wait and see what inspector says about the leg joints if any.
Fitzroy - I have sourced Superior Beech – Random width Sawn boards to cover 50 thick x 925mm wide. The cost for 1.8m lengths comes to £190.00 plus VAT. What do you think? I don't know yet how to join them, I was thinking of just glueing and clamping? Do you think I should use dowels (I don't have a biscuit joiner)
recipio - beechwood is what the baker wants. I suggested the oak frame. Prior to your post, I did not know that sycamore and poplar are good and cheaper alternatives. Thanks for the new knowledge. I will remember that for next time.
Inspector - Hanger bolts it is. I didn't know that about pocket screws, I will instead go with your recommendation and screw in perpendicular to the apron mating face. Just wondering about your suggestion of not attaching the legs to the apron. So you are saying the legs are pulled into place with that single hanger bolt? That will provide adequate strength for lateral forces?
Kicked Back - thanks for the suggestion. If I do mortice and tenons do you recommend I glue them in or just make them a tap fit? I'm just going to wait and see what inspector says about the leg joints if any.
Fitzroy - I have sourced Superior Beech – Random width Sawn boards to cover 50 thick x 925mm wide. The cost for 1.8m lengths comes to £190.00 plus VAT. What do you think? I don't know yet how to join them, I was thinking of just glueing and clamping? Do you think I should use dowels (I don't have a biscuit joiner)
recipio - beechwood is what the baker wants. I suggested the oak frame. Prior to your post, I did not know that sycamore and poplar are good and cheaper alternatives. Thanks for the new knowledge. I will remember that for next time.
Grantx
Established Member
It won't be used as an eating table. It is for making food on.
Jacob
New Luddism. Wake up and resist.
45mm is a very thick table top. 25mm would be plenty in any timber, or ply.
You don't need those corner braces but a central bearer across the middle would be good.
Bottom of aprons want to be as low - so if you are sitting at the table on a normal chair 18" high, then 23" clearance needed from floor to bottom of apron.
Given height of 30", take off 25mm for top thickness, leaves you with 6' for apron width.
That flush edge to the top is unattractive and pointless, I'd make the top project 2" or more all round, even further at the ends
