dining table in oak

[stef]

Cut loads of dowels, drilled some holes in the legs, prepared the frame, and assembled.
I used the technique where you drill the leg first, then mark the tenons, inside de mortice, pull the tenon out again, and drill but closer to the shoulder than should be. this way, the dowel sorts of zigzag through the tenon, pulling it tight against the mortices shoulders.
works a threat !

 

[DaveL]

I like the look of the table, its coming together nicely.

I used the technique where you drill the leg first, then mark the tenons, inside de mortice, pull the tenon out again, and drill but closer to the shoulder than should be. this way, the dowel sorts of zigzag through the tenon, pulling it tight against the mortices shoulders.
works a threat !

This is called draw boring, the dowel does indeed tighten the joint, they are very secure.

 

[OPJ]

Ah, yes, good old draw-boring! It does work very well, although you have to be a bit 'brave' and offset the holes by at least 2-3mm otherwise, the shoulders may not pull up far enough. Yours look very good though. The other advantage is that you can free up your sash cramps.

 

[stef]

today, after a little more sanding, i gave the top a big wash of insect/worm destroying liquid..this give a good idea of what it will look like when finished. It should take 48h to dry. i'll give it a week.

 

[Tierney]

Looks good, a nice solid piece of furniture. Looking at the reflection you seem to have done a good job flattening the top.

DT

 

[fyall]

breadboards morticed, tenons cut...

just need a little adjustement (or a heavy hammer) to drive them fully home.
then it's glue and dowels (only on the middle plank, of course)

Stef

I missed a step when you fitted the breadboard ends. Did you only mortice and tenon the two outside boards onto the ends? Why did you just dowel the middle board?

Sorry if I'm asking a stupid question.

 

[DaveL]

Why did you just dowel the middle board?

Bread board ends need to float as the cross grain long grain expansions will be different. The usual practise is to have one 'master' fixing on the centre line, any thing else must allow for the different amounts of movement.

 

[stef]

breadboards morticed, tenons cut...

just need a little adjustement (or a heavy hammer) to drive them fully home.
then it's glue and dowels (only on the middle plank, of course)

Stef

I missed a step when you fitted the breadboard ends. Did you only mortice and tenon the two outside boards onto the ends? Why did you just dowel the middle board?

Sorry if I'm asking a stupid question.

I routed a 1.5inch tenon across the whole width of the table. then a mortice on the breadboards being carefull not to go right to the end.
After a bit of adjusting, the breadboard end went on tight. i removed it. I drilled 4 dowel holes on the underside of the breadboard: 2 close to each other in the middle, and 1 on each end of the breadboard. I was carefull not to go right through the other side. i fitted the breadboard again, and marked where the holes land on the tenon. I then removed the breadboard once more, and drilled the 4 holes on the tenon, 1mm closer to the shoulder. I also transformed the 2 outside holes in the breadboard into slots. fitted the bread board on again (gluing only 2-3 inches in the middle), and drove the dowels home.
This way, the top can expand and contract, it will not break. And the fit is pretty tight !

 

[LarryS.]

just had a eureaka moment, i think !

I've never quite understood breadboard ends / how they allow for movement but prevent a gap opening up,

from what you've said Stef it sounds to me like you have a set-up which keep the ends of the table tight to the breadboard, but there could be the possibility of the long edges of the table not quite aligning to the ends of the breadboards (if the table expands sideways either out or in) ?

is this right ?

 

[OPJ]

Paul, what you have described sounds correct. Again, as I have just done in Bloonose's thread, I'll advise you to check out John Lloyd's article in the new issue of British Woodworking :roll:, where he goes in to a bit more detail. :wink:

Bread board ends need to float as the cross grain long grain expansions will be different. The usual practise is to have one 'master' fixing on the centre line, any thing else must allow for the different amounts of movement.

I've always believed this as well... But, in that aforementioned article, you can clearly see John not only glues his 'loose tenon' but he's applying glue along the edge of the 'cleat'... :shock: I'll have to e-mail Nick about this one! :-k

 

[stef]

Right, the finish is now going on.
fist, the surface is sanded, checked and rechecked, and then wiped quickly with white spirit.

then a coat of "fond dur" is applied (it's some sort of grain filler/protector)
and after a day or so, it was rubbed with fine steelwool.

ready for the last coat.

now:

what do you reckon...
should i give it a couple of coat of shellac, or should i go straight to the wax ?
(apparently, the fonddur is good enough to wax straight on.. i think i'll skip the shellac)

 

[stef]

Finished !
at last !

 

[TrimTheKing]

Very nice Stef, I like that a lot. Really works well with the chairs and the other furiture in the room.

Will be interested in how the breadboard ends hold up over time with movement, if you are brave enough to post...

 

[Paul Chapman]

Looks good, Stef 8)

Cheers :wink:

Paul

 

[woodbloke]

... rubbed with fine steelwool.

If it's oak you're using, avoid steel wool like the plague :x as minute particles can break off which will eventually go black. I generally use the Webrax pads which both cut back the finish and allow a coat of wax to be applied as well - Rob

 

[OPJ]

That's come up very well indeed. Nice one!

 

[Weirwolf]

I'm a big fan of oak and I like this table a lot.
The reclaimed wood you have used is full of character. I like the way you have finished it too. If it's over finished I think it starts to look false.

I think you have done a grand job and one to which I aspire.

 

[chris_d]

Solid, chunky and honest carpentry - I love it and you should feel very proud!

 

[stef]

well, thank you guys.
It's probably my most accomplished work to date.
i'll keep you updated if the breadboard goes wrong.
Thanks again for the tips, especially the 4 strips of 25mm instead of the 2x50mm i was planning to use ! this was inspired !
One "mistake" thing i will not do again though: The two dowels i used on each leg join are not supposed to line up with the grain.. i read recently in a book that this was a big no no...too late for this project though.