Hello folks, I am building a small workshop for my woodworking machinery, I have one dedicated to all my metal working machinery. I have a Kity Direct Drive universal woodworker. My idea is to use this in the centre of the floor, the shed will be 5X 3.5Mtrs. I am thinking of a central connection for both power and the dust extractor recessed into the floor to avoid cables/ pipes around the edge. The dust extraction outlets are all under the table on the Kity so this seems to make sense to me. I also want to have other ducting around the shop for drill press, belt sander and for a floor cleaner. The dust extrctor will be located outside under a small cover. Has anyone done similar? , looking for ideas for quick release connectors for the 100mm ducting and anything else that might bring this to fruition. TIA. Tony
Designing a new workshop
- Thread starter Digger58
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Cabinetman
Established Member
Exciting times! All sounds good, personally I prefer to come down from the ceiling which whilst it will get in the way occasionally it is also much easier to move when you realise you put it in the wrong place, wrong place is easy to do with a combination mc. Also just in case you ever get a blockage.
Quick release, well on my equipment the flexible hoses just slip/slide onto the flange of the mc, the fit is just about tight enough that very little suction is lost.
The extractor outside is something I wished was possible with my setup, they are invariably dusty things as well as being noisy.
Ian
Quick release, well on my equipment the flexible hoses just slip/slide onto the flange of the mc, the fit is just about tight enough that very little suction is lost.
The extractor outside is something I wished was possible with my setup, they are invariably dusty things as well as being noisy.
Ian
Yojevol
Clocking on
Your concept sounds very similar to what I had based around my Felder combo. I planned the DX system before the w/s was built and so was able incorporate ducts in the concrete floor to service the saw, thicknesser and spindle aux suction. I had an overhead duct which extracted from the spindle fence and the saw crown guard. The overhead connections were in flexible and could be hooked up out of the way when not in use. I did suffer a couple of blockages in the underfloor duct but these were easily cleared with a flexible rod. They were really caused by my inattention to the DX filter in need of a clean thus causing a drop in suction pressure. There was also the memorable occasion when the shop got flooded with 4" of water in the infamous 2007 storm and flood. After it had all drained away I was left with the duct full of water which was sucked out with the shop vac. I also had the power cable in an underfloor duct
The.combo ducting was all.in 125 and 80mm spiral metal with the rest of the shop machines being connected by overhead 4" plastic soil pipe which was easy to adapt as my kit changed over the years. Sadly, all now gone as I continue to downsize to a single garage.
Brian
The.combo ducting was all.in 125 and 80mm spiral metal with the rest of the shop machines being connected by overhead 4" plastic soil pipe which was easy to adapt as my kit changed over the years. Sadly, all now gone as I continue to downsize to a single garage.
Brian
Hi Ian, I had thought of a swing arm mounted on the wall and then moving out over the machine but with outlets under the table except for the planer I was leaning towards having something under the floor along with the electrical connection. I may combine the two, there isn't that much room to set it up wrong so I think roughly in the centre of the floor should suffice. Im thinking of maximizing the floor space without cluttering it up. Down from above will certainly be the job for the planer. Next job is to look at the different piping, ducting available, never had anything to do with it before, have done grain drying equipment with cyclones etc but this is much smaller. My previous experience tells me to keep the flexible hosing to a minimum as its very power hungry as regards vacuum compared to a smooth pipe. Are "quick connections " available or do you rely on just the push in connectors? What about sealing them off when a particular duct is not in use, I think they call them "Blast gates" ??? Thanks for your input.
Wouldn't we all like to start again. 
5 x 3.5 will soon fill up so keep the machinery in the center and power tools around the periphery. You can't run underground pipes to everything so plan for some overhead ducts, preferably metal.
The big argument against an outside extractor is that it sucks the heat from the shed but they only run intermittently and its mainly a winter problem. I would also install a master switch at the door just for peace of mind.
5 x 3.5 will soon fill up so keep the machinery in the center and power tools around the periphery. You can't run underground pipes to everything so plan for some overhead ducts, preferably metal.The big argument against an outside extractor is that it sucks the heat from the shed but they only run intermittently and its mainly a winter problem. I would also install a master switch at the door just for peace of mind.
Cabinetman
Established Member
A swing arm is such a good idea that I shall borrow it! Setting up a new workspace of my own at the mo.
Yes re cutting back on flexy. Joints between hose, tube, and mc outlets can be a pain, I have used soft vinyl flooring offcuts made up into tapered tubes to connect between in short lengths with good results in the past.
Yes re cutting back on flexy. Joints between hose, tube, and mc outlets can be a pain, I have used soft vinyl flooring offcuts made up into tapered tubes to connect between in short lengths with good results in the past.
Deadeye
Established Member
The only question I have about the extraction being outside is that they're very good at taking heat out too...
I filter the air from the extraction back into the workshop, seems to work and keeps the heat in/out. I used panel filters for spray booths in addition to the filter bags, you just need to make the shed air tight ish
