Dado blade - why not...

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Interesting article- thanks.

As far as I'm aware there is only one new saw on sale in the UK that will take a dado blade. This is the Xcaliber but there is a twist.

The saw has an optional extra which is an exchangeable spindle adaptor that increases the length of the arbour so it will take a dado up to 13/16" maybe more.

There is no braking on the saw as supplied and no provision for a guard once the riving knife is removed.

I believe the use of the optional extra gets round the BSI recommendations.

The three phase version could be run from an inverter that could be programmed to give controlled deceleration over 10 seconds or any other time as desired.

Bob
 
Technically if you are using machinery for your hobby or home use then what is legal or illegal is irrelevant.

The use of grooving tooling on a table saw in industry is covered under PUWER 98 (provision and use of work equipment regulations). Under this reg, firstly wobble saws are non compliant due to balance and chip limitation issues. Dado heads are not illegal as long as they are chip limited ie, the main body of the cutter is solid and the teeth or tips project by no more than 1.1mm. The issue of using the dado on a table saw is that the workpiece is passed over the top of the saw blade increasing the risk of kick back due to no riving knife and it requires extra guarding arrangements. In this case a tunnel guard must be fitted to the machine to hold the timber onto the table. A push stick must be used for the last 300mm of cut (as with any other rip on a table saw when a board is less than 300mm wide). Of course the machine must be able to accept a grooving head, so there is enough thread on the shaft to tighten the nut and the slot in the table will accept it. The operator must also check that the grooving blade is not too small to fit on the machine as the smaller the cutter, the lower the peripheral speed, meaning more chance of kick back. As for braking issues, there is no difference to braking a groover on a table saw than there is on a spindle moulder.

The critical part of the PUWER regs, is that if there is a more suitable machine that will carry out the operation safer, then this machine must be used, no matter what. If an operator was to have an accident using a table saw with a groover in industry, when there was a spindle or router table available then HSE will prosecute.

The 10 second stop rule came into force as the majority of accidents on machinery occurred when making adjustments to the machine whilst it was either still running or running down. Either by the operator or the next person on the machine unaware it was still running. The stroboscopic effect of florescent lights on moving blades can also make it look as though the blade has stopped when in fact it is still running.
 
I own a dado set, but i rarely use it, it takes time to set up, hard to accurately set to required depth, and the freud set i have gives poor quality of cut. I almost always use router cutters, the heavy duty slot cutters from wealden used in a router table. IMO are very good value for money, quick to set up and give clean cuts.
 
seaco":r2coufhs said:
Please not again, some people love them some loath them any machine with a blade is dangerous if not used safely, You'll never convince someone who doesn't like them to use one so really this type of thread is a non starter!

I will stick to using my dado set and then use a router when I feel it is appropriate for the job I'm doing...
In fairness, he asked if there was a definitive answer, not why certain people do/don't like them.

The question doesn't kick off the arguments, it's answers like this (not specifically pointed at you seaco)...

I agree that eveyone will have their own opinion, and are entirely valid in doing whatever they want if they deem it safe enough.

FWIW if I could be bothered, and felt it necessary, then I personally wouldn't have too much of an issue with using one. But seeing as I have such an infrequent need for this kind of thing it's easier and cheaper to use a router and straight edge, for me.

IMHO
 
I thought it was dados & EEC saw table braking systems were incompatable.

Have just been building a cabinet ( to a USA description in a book) and needed to use the TS for various tasks would have taken ages ( to swap from one cutter to another) except I was using the router table to do Dado cutting jobs.
 
The braking is not a problem if the blades are pegged or keyed, it's more likely that the manufacturers are worried about ambulance chasers.

Roy.
 
big soft moose":2xx2okl8 said:
Digit":2xx2okl8 said:
All of those issues can be dealt with.

Roy.

course they can - buy those wot knows what they are doing - but how many muppets would simply use it unguarded ( take a look at woodwhisperer accident board - the number of their posts that start "after removing the safety guarding I..." )

I dont get the apeal of dadoing like this - surely its easier, quicker, and safer to use a router table , or a router on a guide

I agree about the router v Dado cuter.
I also had a look at the Whisperer's site. Couldn't find any link to a forum or an 'accident board'. The site looks to be a bit of a cluttered 'Aladdin's Cave'...

John :)
 
Appreciate this is old hat to a number of you but have to say I found the opinions and explanations very interesting and thought provoking. As someone who has never used one but has often thought about it I find these discussions great.

I have always been a firm believer in maintaining a slight sense of fear and foreboding (no idea if thats spelt right) about all my machines. For me it has always helped me keep a level of respect for that machine as well as all my fingers.

I would also say that for me quality comes into play. I have always used a router and a guide because I feel more confident and at ease with this method and therefore believe that the end product is better because of this. Having never used a dado I don't feel I would get the same results. I know time and practice are key here but why re-invent the wheel at the personal level if you know what I mean.

It may take longer with a router, especially on large jobs, but feel happier doing it this way, so enjoy it more, get more out if it and have a greater sense of satisfaction with the end results.
 
Benchwayze":1exnbrs6 said:
I also had a look at the Whisperer's site. Couldn't find any link to a forum or an 'accident board'. The site looks to be a bit of a cluttered 'Aladdin's Cave'...

John :)

my apologies to the whisperer - the thread i was thinking of isnt on there, its on lumberjocks
 
One point I haven't seen raised on this subject, unless I've missed it of course, is that, IME, a dado blade will cut cleaner across the grain on some timbers than a router cutter will.

Roy.
 
Digit":1e2hat4l said:
One point I haven't seen raised on this subject, unless I've missed it of course, is that, IME, a dado blade will cut cleaner across the grain on some timbers than a router cutter will.

Roy.


True True...!
 
And a skew rebate block in a spindle moulder will do even better. For anyone who hasn't tried them CMT (and others) do both skew and spiral cutters for routers which cut much cleaner than a straight router cutter
 

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