Cutting Bushboard Nuance panels

[MikeJhn]

Anyone done this, the instructions are not helpful as it says:

"Use a circular saw fitted with a sharp blade to cut concealed edges. Position the panel face up or down depending on the blade type and start all cuts into the factory finished postformed edge."

So no guidance on whether to cut with the melamine face up or down with a track saw, my thoughts are as the blade spins with the teeth cutting into the melamine first, i.e. face down if doing in one pass, or a scribe cut first on the melamine side, has anyone done this and can advise.

 

[clogs]

either way is cr@p with standard circ saw's.....
U really need a riving blade on a table saw......
or
either or both, use masking tape and a knife line down the cut site....

 

[MikeJhn]

Never heard of a riving blade, do you mean a scribing blade?

 

[Sideways]

I haven't used this board but I have cut melamine faced panels before and just a couple of days ago was cutting down upvc fascia boards which have a very brittle skin and edges that chip back for 3 or 4mm if cut wrongly.

I agree with the way you are thinking. To prevent splintering of the fragile face, the teeth need to be entering the surface not leaving it.

If you have a tablesaw with a second scribing blade, great !
If not, you should get a clean edge with a single tracksaw through cut and the sheet placed good face down. In my case, cutting the UPVC it was face down on the mitre saw that gave a perfect cut. That's the same geometry with teeth rising up into the good face.

If there's also a risk of chipping on the back surface and this matters, then that's the time to use your tracksaw set for a shallow scribing cut, pulled backwards (climb cutting) under careful control because the saw will want to run at you.
Once the scribe cut is made, go full depth and cut through the board going forwards as normal.
I would put the best face down for this two cut method so the teeth rise up into it and only see it on one pass.

 

[niall Y]

I do have a table saw with the extra scribing blade fitted, however, I haven't used this facility in years. When cutting faced boards. I now use the specialist blades. These comprise peg-teeth ,interspaced with tips having alternate slopes. Not sure if these are readily available in the sizes used for track saws, but for me they were a 'game-changer.
The best way of finding out what works, is to experiment.' Try out on a edge that doesn't count, and then proceed accordingly

 

[Distinterior]

Just use a good quality Triple Chip blade fitted in a tracksaw with the showface up.......Line up the rail on your cut line and cut through.
Both faces of the panel will be good....

 

[HOJ]

I use a sharp 60T blade, in my TS55, never had a problem cutting from either side, this was the last one I did, you can hardly see the join!

 

[MikeJhn]

I have a new 60 tooth blade, I have to trim the board to width, so will try a trial cut from either side first to see what surface comes out best before I cut to final width, seems the way forward.

Thanks all for the suggestions.

 

[MikeJhn]

Just an update, it did not matter what side I cut from using a track saw, it did not splinter or chip, even when scribing off a few millimetres' to get the panel to fit the wall, very old house with not a straight or upright wall or level ceiling anywhere.