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Jacob

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I use a 3M Diapad. Just a quick rub over with plenty of oil or paraffin, every now and then, to freshen up the surface. There are plenty of alternatives to Diapads but whatever it is it needs to be flexible. If you use something rigid you will spend more time having to flatten stones rather than sharpening.
 

Alf

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Ah, much experimentation on achieving a deep clean, as opposed to freshening up the surface via abrasion: viz. Word of caution though; one of the galoots on the Old Tools List advises strongly against using the dishwasher. He only heard the last of it from his missus several years later, and only then after they'd moved house (and thus dishwashers).
 

Cheshirechappie

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I read about this somewhere - the author recommended placing the oilstone in a saucepan, covering well with cold water, then bringing to the boil and simmering. I forget how long for. When simmered, remove from the heat, and allow the whole lot - pan, water and stone - to cool slowly to room temperature. The idea is not to thermally shock, and thus possibly crack, the stone. This apparently boils out all the old oil, leaving the stone's pores ungummed.

I've never tried it, so offer it only in the spirit of passing on information seen somewhere. Bearing in mind Alf's post above, a cheap Ebay saucepan might be in order rather than risk the wrath of Management, and serving the resulting soup to the in-laws might not be advisable either, however tempting the idea might be.
 

Jacob

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Alf":22cfqzj9 said:
Ah, much experimentation on achieving a deep clean, as opposed to freshening up the surface via abrasion: viz. Word of caution though; one of the galoots on the Old Tools List advises strongly against using the dishwasher. He only heard the last of it from his missus several years later, and only then after they'd moved house (and thus dishwashers).
If you "clean" (by washing etc) you will still need to freshen the surface. If you freshen the surface you don't need to clean. I've been freshening the surfaces for 30 odd years without once "cleaning".
It helps to wipe them down after use and always keep the lid on.
 

Alf

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A stone that hasn't received that level of care may not actually be rescuable by resurfacing alone though.
 

Jacob

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Alf":180cpi6l said:
A stone that hasn't received that level of care may not actually be rescuable by resurfacing alone though.
Hmm. Nope. Just resurface is all you need IMHO. It's not that dramatic - just a scratch-over, so to speak. However badly it was treated. Not unlike a saw - you don't need to "clean" one ever, but sharpening is really good.
Or in other words - you need to sharpen your sharpening stone every now and then. I suppose soft water-stones sharpen themselves by losing material unaided
 

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Jacob":3nis8thc said:
Not unlike a saw - you don't need to "clean" one ever
Now you're either being woefully obtuse or just talking spherical objects for the sake of of it, Jacob. I wish you joy and will leave you to it.
 

Jacob

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Alf":75f2xo5p said:
Jacob":75f2xo5p said:
Not unlike a saw - you don't need to "clean" one ever
Now you're either being woefully obtuse or just talking spherical objects for the sake of of it, Jacob. I wish you joy and will leave you to it.
I've just sharpened a very rusty saw. Seems to have been kept in a pond. 2 or 3 teeth snapped whilst setting it, due to pitting.
I brushed off the duck-weed and mud but haven't touched the rust. It saws beautifully, with just a normal amount of set.
The only other thing I did was to brush it all over with linseed oil, which of course will help it slide through the wood and is fairly permanent once set.
Looks a mess but cuts well.
It's (nearly) all nonsense you know, all this tool polishing!
 

jimi43

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Jacob":hbsegna7 said:
Alf":hbsegna7 said:
Jacob":hbsegna7 said:
Not unlike a saw - you don't need to "clean" one ever
Now you're either being woefully obtuse or just talking spherical objects for the sake of of it, Jacob. I wish you joy and will leave you to it.
I've just sharpened a very rusty saw. Seems to have been kept in a pond. 2 or 3 teeth snapped whilst setting it, due to pitting.
I brushed off the duck-weed and mud but haven't touched the rust. It saws beautifully, with just a normal amount of set.
The only other thing I did was to brush it all over with linseed oil, which of course will help it slide through the wood and is fairly permanent once set.
Looks a mess but cuts well.
It's (nearly) all nonsense you know, all this tool polishing!
I'll keep that sage advice in mind Jacob next time I feel the urge to fettle a plane...

Stage 3) Now simply chuck the plane into the nearest pond to restore the frog to factory condition....

:roll: :roll:

Jim
 

Jacob

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I wouldn't particularly recommend the pond treatment - but if you do dredge one up it may be better than it looks!
 

Jacob

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This is the saw

Very nice except for the rust which was worse than I expected. With it being so pitted a little extra detail is required in the sharpening; after setting, if any teeth are left, it helps to stone the edges so the teeth have three bright faces instead of two and one pitted.
After the first pass or two the rust doesn't impede sawing as it gets rubbed off and just pits remain. It still looks horribly rusty but the sides don't touch the work much anyway, if you do a straight cut.
I'm not going to waste any time polishing it - if I don't use it it'll stay rusty, if I do use it it'll slowly shine up in it's own way.
It's got a heavy and well finished brass back.

This is my 4th old Spear & Jackson, though the others all have modern handles. They all are (or were) excellent quality, as good as anything ever made.
 

bugbear

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Jacob":2iva08na said:
It still looks horribly rusty but the sides don't touch the work much anyway, if you do a straight cut.
I'm not going to waste any time polishing it - if I don't use it it'll stay rusty, if I do use it it'll slowly shine up in it's own way.
"The saw that does not touch the sides becomes shiny"

Is that a zen paradox kind of thing? :lol: :lol: :lol:

BugBEar
 

Jacob

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bugbear":3fcoxl9p said:
Jacob":3fcoxl9p said:
It still looks horribly rusty but the sides don't touch the work much anyway, if you do a straight cut.
I'm not going to waste any time polishing it - if I don't use it it'll stay rusty, if I do use it it'll slowly shine up in it's own way.
"The saw that does not touch the sides becomes shiny"

Is that a zen paradox kind of thing? :lol: :lol: :lol:

BugBEar
No it isn't, but I can see you would be confused by it.
 

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