Cheap powertool extractor at lidl

UKworkshop.co.uk

Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
pewe":b1ir85zb said:
Interesting,

This vaccuum has a 1400W motor with a rated power take off of 2000W

http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp? ... rc=froogle

- so its at the top end limit and costs over 3 times the price. It says it has a quiet motor, but the one I heard was not much quieter than the Lidl. Besides my power tools drown out the vac anyway.

pewe

There is one thing you missed on the one from your link, it does come with 5 free bags for that price :roll: :wink:

I will and have been very happy with my Lidl's and it does come with a 3 year warranty as well for my £35 :D
 
Hello
I've lurking for some time, but the current topic bears directly on a problem I anticipate I may, (only may), have in future.
I bought a Attix 360-21 at Axminster 2005, understanding from the Axminster catalogue that it would support tools up to 2200 watts. Since many heavyweight routers were actually described at that time as 1850 watts (Dewalt 625 and clones), I thought I would have a good margin of electrical safety.
On getting it out of the box, on the underside of the power take-off flap was a label stating "MAX1800watts".
I emailed the manufacturers who were very helpful and explained that the machine had components designed for the European market, where the domestic standard is 16A as against our 13A, and since the vacuum itself draws 1200W, then {(16*240 -1200 =2640) so OK for 2200W, as against (13*240-1200=1920) so OK for 1800W)}. Since I agree with the comment that assuming 230V is more realistic, that then implies 1790W for the tool - so much for my margin of safety!
I have heard that the soft start helps, but can anyone quantify?
In any event, the bar is being lifted on routers so that the heavyweights are now 2000W or north, and since I have a slight aversion to the "the fuse will go, not the tool", I think if, (only if), upgrading from my current 1650W (7+amps), I am looking at installing a 16A circuit.
 
almost relevant, when i bought my trend vac, i also checked out the
metabo at the same time. the metabo is rated at about 1400 watts for
tool take off, whilst the trend is 2000. so i bought the trend and so far
it has not caused any problems.

paul :wink:
 
I am a bit confused by this. Surely the issue is not the actual rating of the power tool in use but the work it is doing and hence the current draw?

The brushed motors we generally use in saws and routers etc have a certain running speed (in some cases managed by a speed controller) and will draw whatever current is necessary to accelerate and run to it. By making it do more work we draw more current, the ultimate extension of this being we stall it and blow the fuse or burn it out if it's copper will not stand the current.

I for one never run my router at anything like the limit of its plated capacity so I have no worries about driving it off the socket of the vacuum.

Am I wrong?

Colin
 
i too am confused, i thought the rating on most power tools was the start up power they draw, and in normal constant running use, they tend to
use lots less power. :?

my dewalt 744 saw starts and does not trip my 13 amp circuit, no more does the 708, and neither so far the hitachi m12v and trend vacuum working together.
:roll:

paul :wink:
 
my dewalt 744 saw starts and does not trip my 13 amp circuit,

Do you mean circuit or fuse?

On a 13 amp ring main the fuse in the fuse box is 30 amps, so there is plenty available current to run a number of tools on the same circuit.

The issue here is what can be attached to the vac which is connected to the mains through a 13 amp fuse.

If the fuse in the plug was increased to 16amp it would take more load than the 13amp, and as long as the current drawn was periodic - not constant - it would probably not have too much of a detrimental effect on the wiring or unit, but this course of action is not recommended.

The bottom line is - if the tools don't blow the fuse on the vac, its ok. If they do, don't use the power take off for the tools that do.
 
Thank you , Neil.
To be clear, as I understand it, my 16A circuit would be complete from tool to consumer unit.
I have no intention of over-pushing a router, but with hearing protection and for those occasions I might use e.g. sleds, mortice rails, I'm not sure I could consistently sense that a router was working well within its plated rating.
Regards
 
To be clear, as I understand it, my 16A circuit would be complete from tool to consumer unit

Yes.

Let me see if I can clarify the electrics setup.

In every house there is a distribution box into which the electric supply enters the house.
This Distribution box has fuses (or circuit breakers) in it.
One will be for the ring main of the house which supplies the sockets into which TV's etc are plugged. This will have a 30 amp fuse (circuit breaker) in it.
One will be for the immersion heater or cooker and will have a 40 amp fuse in it.
Another will have a 15amp fuse for lighting.
etc.ense.

If you have a supply to a garage/workshop this will (should be) be on a separate fuse of maybe 30 amps, but it will more likely be 40 amps.
This separate wiring will go to a new distribution (fuse box) in the garage workshop.

In the garage distribution box you will have a 30 amp fuse for the ring main (power tools etc) and a 15 amp fuse for the lights.

The ring main is capable of supporting a total load of 30 amps or 7200w, and in theory this could all be through one socket. But this is not recommended as the plastic socket could overheat and melt and that is why they are rated at 13 amps, and why plugs for electrical equipment have a 13 amp fuse in them. 13 amp fuses allow equipment with power of 3120w maximum to be used before the fuse blows.
So with a 1400w vacuum, the maximum power of any tooling that can be connected to it before the fuse blows is 1720w. However tools with a rating of 2000w may only run at 1300w under light load and work perfectly OK on the vac fuse on most occasions. But if the wood is thick or maybe wet, the tool may need to increase power to work, and the fuse may blow as the current drawn to increase the power increases.

So - the normal ring main sockets are only designed to supply 13 amps (3120w).

If you have a high power tool (such as a table saw or planer thicknesser) it is usually recommended that these be connected to a separate 16 amp supply.
This is a separate wiring loop not on the 13amp ring main, which has its own 40 amp fuse in the distribution box.
The connections used to connect the tool to the supply will not be the normal wall socket boxes (as these are only designed to support 13amps (3120w), they will be special boxes which are designed for 20 amps, and some will have a 20 amp fuse and a neon built in to the box. But these boxes do not have sockets and the equipment must be 'permanently' wired into the box.
In most cases the 16amp supplies you will see are dedicated to one outlet box only, and if there is more than one, then they each have their own fuse in the distribution box, but it is possible to create a multiple 16amp outlet ring main with more than one tool connected to that ring.

So if you permanently wired your vac into a separate 20amp socket on a 16amp ring with its own 40amp fuse in the distribution box, then you could use power tools of a higher rating than 1720w. This may or may not cause damage to the Vac, depending on how the integrated socket for power tools is wired.

I hope this all makes sense.
 
It won't be in all the Stores though. :evil:

Check their web site for your local store to see if it's going to be in yours.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top