Can anyone cut some V grooves for me?

[Jensmith]

I want to make Steve M's fine adjuster jig for my bandsaw fence but I haven't got a v groove cutter for my router and it doesn't seem worthwhile buying one for a 15 min job when I'm not likely to use it again. It's 4 grooves in 2 bits of 12mm MDF - 300 long x 103 wide but one side is cut on an angle and the pieces are mirrored so you can slide them over each other on keys fitted into the grooves.

If you can help can you drop me a pm?

Thanks very much,

Jennifer,

 

[Frank S]

Jensmith.
I can loan you a cutter if you wish then you can make it as you want.
PM me
Frank S

 

[Dodge]

Jensmith.
I can loan you a cutter if you wish then you can make it as you want.
PM me
Frank S

I was going to say that - you read my mind :mrgreen:

 

[Racers]

Hi, Jennifer

You usually get one in the cheap router bit sets from Aldi/Lidl, when they have them in, its worth subscribing to the news letters

Pete

 

[Hudson Carpentry]

Jen somethings a miss you say you wish the angle to be cut at 10deg but this looks nothing like the documents you sent?

I have kept the shorter end at 73mm as drawing but them other two lines are 10 and 8 deg from long end as you see none will be close to 73mm and way short?

Am I missing something?

 

[Jensmith]

I'll check the video again.

 

[Jensmith]

Sorry - it says to cut to 1 in 10. I guess that makes a big difference.

 

[Hudson Carpentry]

So what angle and from where am I cutting?

 

[Jensmith]

Google says 5.7 degrees. It looked like the long end was marked and it's cut to that.
The 2 pieces should be a mirror image.

 

[Hudson Carpentry]

5.7 :shock:

Do you want me to follow the drawing which leaves one end at 103mm and the other at 73mm then let that determine the angle??

 

[Jensmith]

Well, I presume Steve M can be relied upon with his measurements so go with that.

 

[Steve Maskery]

Can I stick my nose in here?

The principle of the fine adjuster fence (I assume you are making the one from Workshop Essentials 4? If not, then ignore all this) is that you move the fence to and fro, and that produces a much smaller movement side to side.

So by making the angle 1:10, a forward movement of 1mm produces a sideways movement of 0.1mm. So to get the angle, simply make a mark 200mm down the board, 20mm to the side and join them up with a ruler and pencil. The actual angle does not need to be measured at all, indeed, marking out this way is easier and more accurate.

I hope this helps
Steve

PS I can't actually check my own fence as I don't have it available, but no-one has ever pointed out a problem, and IIRC I made the drawing from the actual made jig, so I think the drawings should be good.

 

[Jensmith]

Thanks Steve. It is the same jig.

 

[Hudson Carpentry]

Steve. Jen has asked me to make two of the plates as she don't have a v-grove cutter. Now I have already cut the pieces to the sizes in the drawing. 103x300mm then I marked 73mm in at one end (as drawing) and drawn a line to the corner and cut to that. Is this correct for her to use MM's?

I rather hoped you would poke your nose in so I didn't end up sending her something she couldn't use.

Also does it matter how deep the grove is (naturally to to deep as its only 12mm thick)?

 

[Steve Maskery]

The sizes in the drawing are right for millimetres, yes. Or indeed, decimal inches! But 1:10 works well for metric, of course.
S

 

[Hudson Carpentry]

Thanks Steve how about the depth of grove?

 

[Steve Maskery]

It doesn't matter. The keys are made to fit, as long as they are all the same. 4 or 5mm or so would be fine.
S

 

[Hudson Carpentry]

Thanks Steve,

Jen there done. If you sent me your address already I get them in the post for you