Blanket chest/ottoman

[Russ59]

Well its for towels really :lol:
My wife wants me to make a chest/ottoman in pine, also a laundry bin along the same lines.
I have a good woodworking book with a design for one in although I will change a few little bits.
Anyway my design is a frame with mortice and tenon joints and infilled with narrow tongue and groove boards, I have seen the boards for the job in my local wood warehouse.
Size approx 32"x16"x16". Would it need a supprt halfway between the 2 front legs and same on the rear so it looks like 2 panels in the framework because it will be sat on or would it be ok with the tongue and groove boards all the way across the front and back without the brace. Do you get what I mean (one oblong frame or 2 square hole frame.

I also want to make the lid one solid piece so what is the maximum width and thickness board I can glue together to make the lid?
I only have a small table saw, so would be a problem ripping the lid to size after glueing up but I do have a sliding mitre saw so I can cut all the boards to the same length. I will also be joining the boards with biscuits, will they keep the board ends all in line when clamping or will one or several boards stick out further than another so will need ripping on a table saw anyway?

Sorry for all the questions but this is my first real project and I want to get it right first time.

Oh I almost forgot, I dont want to stain it so what will be the best finish, wax or oil?

Russ

 

[mailee]

I would think just the four legs would be sufficient but 36" is a long run for the panels and it may look better with a central vertical. Remember not to glue in the T&G panels to allow them to move. As for the lid I would suggest 3/4" to 1" thick timber for this. Biscuits will be fine for joining these but also remember to alternate the grain of each one EG: looking at the ends of the boards one up one down ETC. also keep the width of each board narrow to lessen the cupping. (I go for 3 or 4" wide boards for this type of build. As for squaring up the top this is best done after the panel is made. Cut your lengths slightly over to allow for any movement in the glue up, (Yes even with biscuits) then when the top is sanded flat use a straight edge and a circular saw to cut them square. A router can even be used if you don't have a circular saw. this should then give you a pretty stable top. For a belt and braces job on the top you could also make breadboard ends which will help to keep the top flat. I am sorry if I have been teaching mother to suck eggs but I am not sure of your experience or equipment so forgive me if you already know this stuff. HTH. :wink:

 

[riclepp]

+1 for what Mailee said

 

[Russ59]

I would think just the four legs would be sufficient but 36" is a long run for the panels and it may look better with a central vertical. Remember not to glue in the T&G panels to allow them to move. As for the lid I would suggest 3/4" to 1" thick timber for this. Biscuits will be fine for joining these but also remember to alternate the grain of each one EG: looking at the ends of the boards one up one down ETC. also keep the width of each board narrow to lessen the cupping. (I go for 3 or 4" wide boards for this type of build. As for squaring up the top this is best done after the panel is made. Cut your lengths slightly over to allow for any movement in the glue up, (Yes even with biscuits) then when the top is sanded flat use a straight edge and a circular saw to cut them square. A router can even be used if you don't have a circular saw. this should then give you a pretty stable top. For a belt and braces job on the top you could also make breadboard ends which will help to keep the top flat. I am sorry if I have been teaching mother to suck eggs but I am not sure of your experience or equipment so forgive me if you already know this stuff. HTH. :wink:

Thanks for the reply, pretty much what I had in my head from reading topics on this great forum but wanted to hear from the horses mouth so to speak.
I also know about alternating the boards for the top.
I only have a small table saw so might make an extension to take the length of the top when trimming to size. I could use my hand circular saw but it doesnt have a very fine blade in it and don't think it would give a clean finish, or would I be surprised :wink:

We have a set of oak nest of tables (3) and the boards for the tops on these are alternated but also there are 3 or 4 grooves cut lengthways in the underneath.
What are the purpose of them?

Thanks again

Russ

 

[marcros]

I would use the circular saw to trim the top. Much safer than trying to balance something like that on a small saw, even with an extension. You can buy a set of 3 blades from tool station for a rennet- fine, medium and rip. they are rubbish and something with enough carbide on to reshape pen over and over works out cheaper in the long run. But you need to make 2 cuts and they will do that just fine. You can always finish the edge with a router if you have one, or a block plane or with sandpaper, if it isn't perfect.

 

[barkwindjammer]

There is a rather good 'WIP' here Russ-to inspire you
post443895.html?hilit=blanket#p443895

 

[Russ59]

There is a rather good 'WIP' here Russ-to inspire you
post443895.html?hilit=blanket#p443895

Wow thanks for that, basically what i'm looking to do but in pine.

what would be the best finish for pine??

I'm a little nervous at starting it because its my first ever woodwork project since leaving school in 1975 even though I did come out with top marks in woodwork exams :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

Russ

 

[barkwindjammer]

Dont think about the whole box as it wont all stay in your head, start with just simple details of the 4 corners/legs/uprights, decide on detail for them-'square edge', 'rounded over', chamfered and lambs tongues', 'flutes' etc etc-whatever you decide. Decide on the joints you are going to use to join the rails to these legs=mortice and tenon, dowels, plugged screws etc etc, make a start on your 4 legs and everything will sort itself in your head once you are forced to make decisions.

HTH

 

[mailee]

I am not sure about the grooves cut in the underside of the tops but can only imagine that the boards were cupping and these were cut to relieve any pressure and help keep them flat. :? As for the finish Wax seems to be the easiest finish to use on pine. The biggest problem with finishing pine is it's absorption of stains or coloured varnishes. Very often it ends up very blotchy. If I am staining pine for any reason I first give it a coat of thinned sanding sealer 50/50 which sinks in to the wood and helps to even out the colour. I prefer to just give it a coat of a clear lacquer to keep the fresh look of the wood, although any clear finish will darken the wood slightly. If an antique finish is required then I would just use a coloured wax. HTH. :wink: