Hi, thanks for asking. I did make a decision in the end after attending a Yandles bandsaw session. I purchased the Record Power Sabre 350 in their Black Friday 24 hour sale and save a few bob. Mind you, I also ended up buying a Laguna drum sander in the sale. They had a range of Laguna bandsaws but dropped on the side of the sabre 350 as there were many features I liked about the Record Power bandsaw.
Bandsaw upgrade
- Thread starter likeakite
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clogs
just can't decide
T tree's
thanks for ur imput, have learnt a lot......
I need to upgrade my floor standing jobby......still looking for one of these but might go newer thanks to the above.....
I'm a sucker for old cast iron relics.....
this may be of interest for lovers of old machines.....worth a 5 min look....honest....
thanks for ur imput, have learnt a lot......
I need to upgrade my floor standing jobby......still looking for one of these but might go newer thanks to the above.....
I'm a sucker for old cast iron relics.....
this may be of interest for lovers of old machines.....worth a 5 min look....honest....
Ttrees
Iroko loco!
@clogs if you do find yourself with such a machine, and have the ability to align the wheels,
then I think you might find the scribing beam method useful for alignment of the wheels.
I could chance a guess, someone might not be so eager to dress the face of the wheels,
on such a machine.
Though that doesn't mean the same principal couldn't be rigged up somehow,
possibly with say... one of those huge clown shoe proportioned pencils one might be able to still get.
It could sit in a close fitting tube with a spring, what's in a block attached to the wheels somehow.
Or some close fitting telescopic doo-dah.
The jig would likely need to be very rigid I guess, in order to get some sorta line,
and worth mentioning if one feels confident enough of the wheels,
i.e no evident discrepancy of the wheel when rotated,
then worth noting one will chase their tail doing the same ....without checking the pen lands
on the same spot/line...on all parts of the wheel,
so check that before striking a line, or you'd be getting all sorts of variables, when the line is
also drawn/scribed from the other side of the wheel/machine.
i.e you won't get the lines to meet in the middle, and no you can't split the difference either,
well...you cant find the halfway point on the wheel between the largest discrepancy,
and get the same result on the other side of the wheel/machine.
On my 600mm wheeled machine, the 0.5mm discrepancy, unnoticable by eye,
turned out to give me a variable of 4mm.
I had to dress the faces to around 0.2mm for the lines of maximum discrepancy to get closer and closer, and eventually end up as one line.
This projected error, I contest... is what one might call the suggested path of the blade,
and by not having aligned wheels, one is asking for the camber to be removed quicker than
it should.
Just look at 12 o'clock whilst even hand turning the wheels, and see the blade walk otherwise.
That's quite revealing, and gives a good suggestion on how the saw is gonna act under power.
Likewise, the tires if installing new ones, should some pre-crowned flavour be available,
then a sensible idea to make sure the edge of the rubber is accurate,
I guess something like that sawplate but a bit stiffer, might be useful for checking/shoving
the tire, should the wheels be out of whack, and one is bonding the rubber flush with them.
Now I understand the Taiwan Laguna's aren't the usual wheel design to say the least, and perhaps some variables there, but all things equal,
This fellow underneath pulled off the wheel from the shaft, so rthe ear hub shaft alignment wasn't messed with, and swapping that brand new wheel seemingly sorted the vibration issue he was having,
so a variable crown a reasonable assumption to me...even though I'm unaware of the design,
but I presume there's no alignment groove ala modern white Centauro's.
Should there not be some issue here, that is.
Now one might say my method is OTT, but I speculate the philosophy of the Italian designs
might indeed be, to align these machines good enough to last, but slowly nibble the tires
over time, i.e 20 or 30 year "lifespan",
and make it as difficult as possible to even remove the old tires, or get replacements which
were comparable, so there's likely a few new sales there....
Or send the wheels off to the factory to get them re-vulcanized, either way jobs for the boys.
In a perfect world, we'd be seeing adjustable motors on Italian bandsaws,
but they're the best yer likely gonna get, should you be wanting something which can be reasonably lifted onto a trailer without all the gear.
then I think you might find the scribing beam method useful for alignment of the wheels.
I could chance a guess, someone might not be so eager to dress the face of the wheels,
on such a machine.
Though that doesn't mean the same principal couldn't be rigged up somehow,
possibly with say... one of those huge clown shoe proportioned pencils one might be able to still get.
It could sit in a close fitting tube with a spring, what's in a block attached to the wheels somehow.
Or some close fitting telescopic doo-dah.
The jig would likely need to be very rigid I guess, in order to get some sorta line,
and worth mentioning if one feels confident enough of the wheels,
i.e no evident discrepancy of the wheel when rotated,
then worth noting one will chase their tail doing the same ....without checking the pen lands
on the same spot/line...on all parts of the wheel,
so check that before striking a line, or you'd be getting all sorts of variables, when the line is
also drawn/scribed from the other side of the wheel/machine.
i.e you won't get the lines to meet in the middle, and no you can't split the difference either,
well...you cant find the halfway point on the wheel between the largest discrepancy,
and get the same result on the other side of the wheel/machine.
On my 600mm wheeled machine, the 0.5mm discrepancy, unnoticable by eye,
turned out to give me a variable of 4mm.
I had to dress the faces to around 0.2mm for the lines of maximum discrepancy to get closer and closer, and eventually end up as one line.
This projected error, I contest... is what one might call the suggested path of the blade,
and by not having aligned wheels, one is asking for the camber to be removed quicker than
it should.
Just look at 12 o'clock whilst even hand turning the wheels, and see the blade walk otherwise.
That's quite revealing, and gives a good suggestion on how the saw is gonna act under power.
Likewise, the tires if installing new ones, should some pre-crowned flavour be available,
then a sensible idea to make sure the edge of the rubber is accurate,
I guess something like that sawplate but a bit stiffer, might be useful for checking/shoving
the tire, should the wheels be out of whack, and one is bonding the rubber flush with them.
Now I understand the Taiwan Laguna's aren't the usual wheel design to say the least, and perhaps some variables there, but all things equal,
This fellow underneath pulled off the wheel from the shaft, so rthe ear hub shaft alignment wasn't messed with, and swapping that brand new wheel seemingly sorted the vibration issue he was having,
so a variable crown a reasonable assumption to me...even though I'm unaware of the design,
but I presume there's no alignment groove ala modern white Centauro's.
Should there not be some issue here, that is.
Now one might say my method is OTT, but I speculate the philosophy of the Italian designs
might indeed be, to align these machines good enough to last, but slowly nibble the tires
over time, i.e 20 or 30 year "lifespan",
and make it as difficult as possible to even remove the old tires, or get replacements which
were comparable, so there's likely a few new sales there....
Or send the wheels off to the factory to get them re-vulcanized, either way jobs for the boys.
In a perfect world, we'd be seeing adjustable motors on Italian bandsaws,
but they're the best yer likely gonna get, should you be wanting something which can be reasonably lifted onto a trailer without all the gear.
Hope you enjoy the saw. I've had mine for a couple of years and have just had to replace a couple of guide bearings; they're a standard size and readily available so no real hassle. The saw's biggest downside in my experience is dust collection; the only DX point is by the lower wheel, there really needs to be something under the table.
That said, the saw performs spectacularly well once set up (it's a bit fiddly to set the lower guide) and I'm really happy with it. Get some TuffSaws blades and you'll be laughing
Hi Moosepig, thanks for your reply. I'm going to rig up an under table dust collection pipe connected to the 4" main pipe. Yandles normally sell the kit but they're out of stock. I've also made my own wheel kit which I find better than the one you can buy for it. The bearing guides replacement was one of the things that swayed me into buying it. Although you say the bottom guides are a bit of a pain to adjust for me it's like a Rolls Roye after having owned a Charnwood bandsawHope you enjoy the saw. I've had mine for a couple of years and have just had to replace a couple of guide bearings; they're a standard size and readily available so no real hassle. The saw's biggest downside in my experience is dust collection; the only DX point is by the lower wheel, there really needs to be something under the table.
That said, the saw performs spectacularly well once set up (it's a bit fiddly to set the lower guide) and I'm really happy with it. Get some TuffSaws blades and you'll be laughing
Thanks againMax Power
Established Member
I bet that ones fun when the blade snaps
