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Bandsaw set up advice

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jonny boy

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Does anyone have the definitive answer with regards to correct Bandsaw set-up? Most manuals state that the blades should slightly overhang the tyres while others state that to have the saw running correctly, the wheels must be in 'co-planer' meaning they should be straight and parallel with each other. If that is the case, then how do you track the blade without putting the top wheel out of 'co-planer'?

Jon.
 

devonwoody

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I do not think it can be correct to have a blade overhanging the tyre. My tyre is around 35 mm wide and how could I possibly have a 6mm blade overhanging on that? I always have the blade running central on the top wheel.

Others no doubt will advise you better than I re coplanar.
 

Steve Maskery

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The wheels should be coplanar when there is no blade installed.
Manufacturers tell you to have the teeth off the blade so that the teeth do not damage the tyre. But that often means that the blade does not cut True North, which is important if you want to use the mitre slot for crosscutting or to run jigs.
The blade should run in the centre of the bottom wheel and wherever on the top wheel give you a true cut. If you have to replace the tyres once every 10 years it's a small price to pay for a sweet-running machine.
 

jonny boy

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Thanks for the replies, I have since read that the blade teeth hanging over the edge of the wheel really only applies to 1 inch and wider blades which is rarely used. The saw is a Minimax S45 and does seem to run sweeter when blade is set in the centre of wheel. The saw could benifit from some new tyres, Does anyone know of a supplier ?
And the dvd's sound a good idea as well.

Jon.
 

9fingers

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the availability of new tyres varies according to machine.
Some you can get ready to fit and they just stretch over the bandwheels
Others are factory fitted and supplied as new/refurbished wheels or you send your wheels away to be done - possibly very expensive
Somewhere you can buy a rubber and cork(?) strip by the mile and re-tyre your own - someone here has done this - (OPJ?)
Going further back still someone was writing about using flat rubber belting or even wide poly vee belts as supplied for vehicle auxiliary drive belts and sticking those on.

A good search in the archive using User tools menu/search (nearly top right on this page) should throw up these old threads.

Mentally, I filed these away for future use but my Startrite tyres remain in good condition and so none of the ideas have been put to the test by me.

hth

Bob
 

jonny boy

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I recently went to buy some new wheel bearings and asked about this and was told to get intouch with a rubber vulcanising co. who will mould the tyres straight to the wheel which sounds expensive to me. Also, Minimax/ SCM don't seem to want to help other than sell you a new set of wheels and the price of those are rediculous. The poly-v belt idea sounds exellent to me, might even be able to get a good fitting size and it won't have to have a joint as well.

Jon.
 

9fingers

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Yes sounds like Minimax are following the Startrite approach :(
I reckon you will be incredibly lucky to find a polyvee belt that will fit properly as it comes. They are not designed with any stretch capability however vehicle ones being about 25mm wide can be cut and scarfed onto the bandwheels with relative ease making sure that the direction of rotation closes the joint.

hth

Bob
 

jonny boy

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I have found a transmission supplier that can supply flat section (3mm thick) eurathane belt of any dia. you require. It sounds like just the ticket so i'm going to ask if they can send me a small piece to check it out and hopefully it won't cost too much either.
 

kirkpoore1

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Jon:

Get tires from Carter Products--that is, if they'll sell to the UK or recommend a local dealer. Here's the link:
http://www.carterproducts.com/product_list.asp?cat_id=15
Go with the black rubber tires, not the blue urethane ones. By all accounts, the black tires crown easier and glue on better. Don't bother with Carter's epoxy--it's stupidly expensive. Instead, use a good contact cement on an absolutely clean wheel and a tire that has been scuffed and wiped down on the inside with lacquer thinner, denatured alcohol, or something like that. At least, that's what I did on my 30" saw and they've been fine for over 5 years. Here's an OWWM thread on bandsaw tire cement:
http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=107740&p=728098&hilit=bandsaw+tire+cement#p728098

Here's a thread with a whole bunch of links on tire crowning:
http://owwm.org/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=98566&p=672087
Crowning is necessary to keep the blade tracking correctly. If your wheels have a crown in them, you may be able to get away without recrowning, but they'll still run better if you do crown them. I used a belt sander and braced it (NOT handheld) up against the wheels while the saw was running. Worked good on the lower wheel, less well on the upper (I was sanding at the bottom of the wheel where the blade was NOT running.)

Kirk
 

jonny boy

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Thanks for the links Kirk, Carter will ship internationally and the tyres are about $25 which should be about £ 20 or so.

I have received three new blades today from Tuff saws and have to say that they are as good as everyone makes out. The quality of finish and smoothness of cut is phenominal.

Jonathan.
 
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