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Axminster TS250-2 modifications.

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MikeJhn

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I thought I would bring together some of the combined knowledge of the Axminster TS-250-2, there are a few derivatives of this saw under many guises, however this is a thread dedicated to the Axminster model.

For those that don't know the saw, it is a perfectly capable hobby saw, with a 250mm blade, cast iron top and is available with a cast iron side slide table, metal extension and upgraded fence: http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ho ... w-ax943888

The first thing to carry out on this saw as with any other is alignment of the blade to the mitre slots, this is done by loosening four cap head bolts on the top of the table, the bolts now have a *threaded plate* they are screwed into below the pivot trunnion, do not undo the bolts too far or the plate will fall off, ensure all the blade adjustment locks are undone also (tilt and height), once you take off the blade insert at the bottom right corner there is a black rod this is one of the pivots for the motor assembly and is easily accessed from above the table to lever it into position to get the blade parallel to the table mitre slot, when checking for parallel its best to use the same tooth on the saw blade to check the dimension to the mitre slot, i.e. turn the blade through 90 degs to check the other end of the mitre slot, otherwise any distortion in the blade will be carried over to the dimension, see page 28 of the manual: http://www.axminster.co.uk/media/downlo ... manual.pdf

*threaded plate* at the time of posting this was a recent modification to the saw and only came to light later in the thread, so some of the later posts and earlier threads highlighting difficulty in adjusting the saw no longer apply, it is now very easy and able to be carried out above the table. Also thanks to Pike for pointing out that the locking mechanism for the saw tilt and height functions should also be loosened off to allow the whole assembly to move.

As with all table or cabinet saws the dust pick up is the most often talked about inadequacy, most have an open underside to allow shavings and dust to just fall to the floor with an extract on one side to hopefully pick up the detritus, with the Axminster TS-250-2 there is a simple solution, Axminster sell what is called a big mouth dust hood: http://www.axminster.co.uk/big-mouth-dust-hood-200114 this fits in between the support rails under the saw almost perfectly, a few millilitres needed to be trimmed off one side to fit.

Big dust hood.jpg


A few self tapping screws and washers are all that is needed to hold it in place, there is debate about if the holes in the cabinet need sealing with tape, personally I have found it works very well with them sealed.

The blade, belt and motor inside the cabinet are protected by a dust shroud, this needs to be modified to take advantage of the new dust hood, the dust shroud is part No 20 page 32 of the manual: http://www.axminster.co.uk/media/downlo ... manual.pdf the modifications consist of removing one side and the connecting flange so it looks like this internally.

Inside mods.jpg


There are some who have just removed the dust shroud completely, this I feel could be detrimental to the belt drive due to being exposed to dust and debris, also the motor would be likely to draw in dust that is not deflected away from it.

I am at the moment making/drawing up a crown guard dust extract to compliment the underside of the table modification, but have to say that the current modifications have proved to be extremely effective in collecting all but a small amount of dust which is on the table top, the crown guard I previously had on my Triton Workcentre proved very effective and will form the basis of the new guard.

As with all saw tables of this type a stand of some kind is required for it to sit on, the 86Kg saw being too heavy to lift onto a bench each time it is needed, it also enables a convenient height to be achieved, this height I have made the same as my workbench, router table and Planner thicknesses top, enabling each to be used as an outfieed or infeed to each other, I have made my own units mobile by the addition of locking braked castors: http://www.castors-online.co.uk/acatalo ... tml#SID=39 These have proved to be most durable in use.

The stand can be of any type, indeed Axminster make one specifically for this saw: http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ho ... and-508213 however this is not mobile, but could be made so, but it does not take into account the available side table extension: http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ho ... kit-508313 There is also available a side slide mitre table: http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ho ... kit-508214 or all the components can be bought as a complete kit at a small saving in cost in the option list at the side of the saw’s listing on the Axminster site: http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-ho ... w-ax943888

Many different options are available to build a base for this unit and inspiration can be drawn from the many different types shown on the internet: https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=home+ ... WQQsAQImQE

I chose my own route as I wanted something full width of the available options for the saw, this at the moment just consists of a mobile base on castors:

Table saw.jpg


It will eventually be fitted out with drawers and peg board sides to accommodate the paraphernalia we all seem to accumulate, whilst carrying out this absorbing hobby.

If buying the available extension table, you also get two new fence rails and a much longer fence, this reaches full width of the table and has a bearing on the far end that is pulled into place when the cam lock lever is depressed on the fence control end, this is a significant upgrade from the standard short fence which is only supported on one end, when setting up it is important to zero in the fence without the sub fence attached otherwise the scale on the left of the blade will be out of alignment when using the fence for small rips on the left of the blade.

Mike

Extension of extract hood picture added:

hood extract.jpg


May have to re-arrange the extraction point as it interferes with using my bench as an outfeed table, the bench having full depth doors and drawers, may turn this around by 90degs and take the hose out behind the proposed draws at low level, too many 90deg bends are not a good idea so at the moment envisage using two 45deg bends to re-position the outlet.

French soil pipe is 100mm so fits perfectly, pics below show eventual arrangement.

DSC01420.jpg


DSC01421.jpg
 

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MikeJhn

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Getting some of the bits together to make the overhead support for the saw guard:

crown guard support.jpg


And proposed crown guard, to be constructed out of 10mm perspex:

Drawing.jpg


Crown guard lead in angle discussion: table-saw-crown-guard-angle-t104772.html

Zero clearance insert added, riving knife modified and the start of the crown guard.
I bought a spare riving knife from Axminster for a couple of £ and trimmed it to fit on my bandsaw with an appropriate blade fitted.

ZCI.jpg


Getting there:

Guard 2.1.jpg


Final version

DSC01413.jpg


DSC01430.jpg







Mike
 

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MikeJhn

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As supplied two piece insert.

Two piece insert.jpg


New one piece aluminium zero insert, the insert is held down by neodymium magnets glued (CA) to the underside of the insert, a groove in the cast iron top was ground to take them.

Two piece insert.jpg


Neodymium Rare Earth magnets used to keep the insert in place:

REM.jpg


JessEm stock guides added to the fence, to tuck these away above the fence, the JessEm track had to moved back from the face of the fence and the area increased, this was achieved with a 60 x 30mm aluminium angle attached to the side of the fence back, the fence also has a ridge running along the top that prohibits a flat area so a strip of 2mm aluminium was placed under the guide rail to accommodate this lip.

DSC01360.jpg


DSC01361.jpg


Mike
 

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pike

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Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year Mike! Have subscribed to this and hopefully will be able to contribute. My plan is to make the most of the basic saw (without slider or extension table) by adding small ply extensions and a sled or two. I'm looking to save space and see the saw as a good small compliment to my tracksaw/bandsaw setup.

Carl
 

MikeJhn

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Picture added to the second post to show the proposed overhead support.

Useful attachment to the end of the sliding table rail, fed up with the sharp end digging into my ribs when I walk past it.

Side table end.jpg


Mike
 

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pike

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I don't know if a sticky was ever made for the TS200/250 but here's a few links I've been reading. Some of it will still be relevant to the mk2.

axminster-ts-200-setup-t85970.html

my-ts-200-fettling-and-saw-rt-bench-build-thread-t40316.html

axminster-ts-250-upgrading-base-and-dust-extraction-t99592.html

fettling-an-axminster-ts-200-tablesaw-t38719.html

Can anyone tell me how you align the blade? Mike I know you outlined this above but I still don't get it. I loosen the 4 bolts but I don't feel like the blade is moving. Is it a case of just pushing it around or is there a proper way to move it left and right on the front and back rails?

Cheers,
Carl.
 

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pike":1huvnc5c said:
I don't know if a sticky was ever made for the TS200/250 but here's a few links I've been reading. Some of it will still be relevant to the mk2.

axminster-ts-200-setup-t85970.html

my-ts-200-fettling-and-saw-rt-bench-build-thread-t40316.html

axminster-ts-250-upgrading-base-and-dust-extraction-t99592.html

fettling-an-axminster-ts-200-tablesaw-t38719.html

Can anyone tell me how you align the blade? Mike I know you outlined this above but I still don't get it. I loosen the 4 bolts but I don't feel like the blade is moving. Is it a case of just pushing it around or is there a proper way to move it left and right on the front and back rails?

Cheers,
Carl.
Once the bolts are loosened, you need to get hold of the whole mechanism (I usually grab just behind the dust exhaust) underneath and move it into alignment. I find that it can move again as you re-tighten the bolts, so it can help to move it whilst the bolts are a little tweaked. Often takes a clue of goes, rechecking with digital callipers, to get it dead on across the mitre slot.




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MikeJhn

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This post no longer applies to the TS-250 as the nuts have been replaced with a threaded plate by the manufacturer, therefore the cap head bolts can be undone from above the table and all adjustments require carried out.



Mike
 

MikeJhn

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Carl

I think it helps if you understand how the thing pivots and moves, in the manual on Page 32 find part 48 and note the pins sticking out of each end, these pivot inside part 72 shown on page 35 together with the bolts 78, there is a limited amount of adjustment that can be obtained by loosening these bolts as they are retained by the pivot 72, so undoing the bolts allows said pivot to move sideways, I hope that's clear.

Now I think about it more it was not the motor I levered over from above the table through the saw insert, it was the pivot arm on part 72 which you can see with the insert removed at the back edge of the hole.

Mike

Link to manual: http://www.axminster.co.uk/media/downlo ... manual.pdf
 

pike

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Thanks again Mike,

I've just had a look at the manual and the parts you mentioned. I understood the design but not the action of adjusting for some reason. All I seemed to do was bend things then they spring back, so I will have another go.

My blade is not that badly out of alignment but I would like to get it closer.

Carl.
 

MikeJhn

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If its springing back, than I am afraid you will have to undo all the bolts, then just snug up one to allow the trunnion on the other end to move and the one with the snugged up bolt to pivot about its bolt, there is not a lot of adjustment availably, just sufficient to allow 1:2mm of movement, what you are actually doing is moving the trunnion sideways within the confines of the bolt hole clearance i.e. bolt 5mm and hole 6mm approximately I have guessed the bolt size.

Mike
 

MikeJhn

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Reserved for future updates.

On page 11 of this continuing thread the subject of Dado blades came up, the short answer is the bolt is not long enough, however this site: http://www.pilana.com/en/grooving-tct-c ... saw-blades have grooving blades with 6mm teeth width and a 3.5mm body, these will fit the saw, but I am unaware if the teeth will clear the internal belt guard, I will update on this page if any news arrives about their suitability.

Drawers beginning to take shape.
Bottom drawer stops short of the 100 extract at the back, remainder are full 700mm deep and open fully.

Drawers.jpg


Draws.jpg


Mike
 

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pike

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Thanks again Mike. Yeah I have seen where the bolts and pins are, I just couldn't seem to get any meaningful movement. I haven't tried leaving one bolt partially tightened for pivoting though so hopefully that will help.

By the way, the big dust hood turned up today. Missus was not impressed as she thought it was another Christmas present.. didn't share my excitement at all ;-)
 

pike

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Mike, have you since sealed the dust hood with tape or something, or are you just relying on it being snug? As far as I can see from the photos the screws and washers are only stopping it moving by being along side?
 

pike

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Cheers. I've done mine now. Lots of gaffer tape. When I've got my mini stand/extensions done will post some pics.
 
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