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i can sharpen "normal" chisels on a stone

I just never used a grinder or a big stick with a weird shape blade
 
Cheap grinder is fine, the wheel is more important, a white Norton or similar designed for hss rather than the standard grey wheels.

Give freehand grinding a go, it's easy enough on scrapers, parting tools and skews, bit trickier on gouges. If you can't crack doing the gouges freehand then get or make a jig (take a look at Chas's (CHJ) web pages if you fancy making rather than buying something.

Hope that helps :)

Cheers, Paul
 
For deep gouges I use a jig. Never cracked freehand. I sometimes use a diamond hone if I just need to put a bit of an edge on. Saves needing to adjust the jig so often. In fact it is set for a fingernail grind on my tool of choice 95% of the time. For skews and shallow gouges I often go freehand. You may have more luck than me so try freehand first. Mind you it took me a while to get back to a sensible shape on my Ellsworth gouge after I screwed it up freehand.

The axminster cheapo with the 40mm wide wheel is an ok budget grinder.

BM.
 
bogmonster":xap8wpfi said:
For deep gouges I use a jig. Never cracked freehand. I sometimes use a diamond hone if I just need to put a bit of an edge on. Saves needing to adjust the jig so often. In fact it is set for a fingernail grind on my tool of choice 95% of the time. For skews and shallow gouges I often go freehand. You may have more luck than me so try freehand first. Mind you it took me a while to get back to a sensible shape on my Ellsworth gouge after I screwed it up freehand.

The axminster cheapo with the 40mm wide wheel is an ok budget grinder.

BM.

this one ?

http://www.axminster.co.uk/axminster-aw ... ne-grinder
 
And at a later date when you have a bit of sharpening experience under your belt think about fitting a Ruby or better still a Blue Microcrystalline in place of the Grey oxide wheel.

They cut cooler and stay sharp without the need to dress so often because of the way they work, but they do need a considerably lighter touch in use because they are more aggressive cutters.

Always use a light touch when grinding, if you do so then glazing is kept to a minimum, I haven't had to touch mine for over twelve months.

Some useful info Here.
 
I started with a similar set of tools and still have them all and still use them all. If you get into bowls you will probably find you want longer handled gouges and long ground and short ground incarnations. Then there is fingernail or square ground. My advice for what it is worth is stick with a square grind on the bowl gouge to start with. It is easy to grind without a jig and it is easy to see if the grind is correct. That takes a few variables out. Do you have the Keith Rowley book? Very good place to start. I like some of the Richard Raffin books as well but strangely not the DVDs.

Once you get to grips with the tools you have bought you will be well on your way. Not really sure I have yet really got the hang of the skew but that is because I am a bowl turner. The skew is mighty tool in skilled hands.

You absolutely will need a grinder before you go much further.

Looking forwards to seeing some pieces.

BM
 
Did you get a tracking number to track the postage of the book Steve,
it should say if its been sent or not on amazon. look in your orders.

Steve G
 
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