Doug71
Established Member
@Phil Pascoe just out of curiosity what don't you like about your jigsaw, it was the ps300 body grip style you got wasn't it? I have the same model, I don't really use it that much but never had any problems with it.
Any Festool owners?
- Thread starter dvddvd
- Start date
Help Support UKworkshop.co.uk:
Doug71
Established Member
Or you could buy the Festool, have a play with it and if you don't like it send it back within 14 days for a full refund.
Yes. I find it awkward to use and the switch to my mind is so badly placed and difficult to use as to be dangerous - it's near impossible to switch off quickly. A trigger is far better. I would consider the three Boschs and the DeWalt that preceded it to better designs.
I found their customer service to be non existent so refuse to buy another.
ChrisWiduWood
Established Member
If i had £600-800 to spend on a saw, i would buy a second hand Kapex 120, in my opinion the best mitre saw money can buy.
If you can, try and have a go with one, or get someone to properly show you its capabilities. nothing else comes close to repeatable accurate dust free (when used with an extractor and 36mm+ hose) cutting. its an absolute pleasure to use left or right handed, the workpiece clamp is fantastic, blade changing easy, its mitre finder add on is brilliant. I'm sure the other saws are great also, but wouldn't get a look in for me.
If you can, try and have a go with one, or get someone to properly show you its capabilities. nothing else comes close to repeatable accurate dust free (when used with an extractor and 36mm+ hose) cutting. its an absolute pleasure to use left or right handed, the workpiece clamp is fantastic, blade changing easy, its mitre finder add on is brilliant. I'm sure the other saws are great also, but wouldn't get a look in for me.
Doug71
Established Member
The body grip style do tend to have a switch rather than a trigger which can be a bit tricky depending on how you are using it, I presume it's because the body grip are often used upside down and a trigger doesn't really work in that situation.
Doug B
Shy Tot
Think you’ll find the base of the Kapex saw is made from cast Magnesium used to actually make the saw lighter & easier to transport, so rather than being made from less material it’s made from a more expensive material to make it lighter, another reason it’s a more expensive saw.
Bristol_Rob
Established Member
One thing a new festool gets you is 3 yrs theft insurance. If its stolen, Festool will simply give you another one.
Also on my Kapex 60. I bought the optional guide light. So when making cuts you can see where the blade will land. Some people prefer it to a laser.
Another party trick is its weight. It's designed to be carried about and light. You mention the 60 is light as some kind of failure of comparison. I feel you may have missed the point on that.
But I also get the feeling that the festool mitre saw isn't for you
I could go on about design, and how the height of the Kapex 60 is designed to be the same as a festool systainer, so when you are on site you can drop two of those down and create the perfect working platform. I won't
I genuinely could go on. But instead I'm going to give you permission to buy the Makita.
Makita is a great company with great tools, I have lots of them and love them.
Also on my Kapex 60. I bought the optional guide light. So when making cuts you can see where the blade will land. Some people prefer it to a laser.
Another party trick is its weight. It's designed to be carried about and light. You mention the 60 is light as some kind of failure of comparison. I feel you may have missed the point on that.
But I also get the feeling that the festool mitre saw isn't for you
I could go on about design, and how the height of the Kapex 60 is designed to be the same as a festool systainer, so when you are on site you can drop two of those down and create the perfect working platform. I won't
I genuinely could go on. But instead I'm going to give you permission to buy the Makita.
Makita is a great company with great tools, I have lots of them and love them.
Last edited:
Keith Cocker
Established Member
You seem to be wasting time. Buy the Makita. You clearly don’t want to buy Festool. I have the Kapex and am delighted with it.
Adam W.
A Major Clanger
I'd get the Festool, as that Makita handle would drive me nuts. I think it's such a bad design.
I do own a Makita sliding compound mitre saw though, but one of these.......
https://www.makita.ca/index2new.php?event=tool&id=63
I do own a Makita sliding compound mitre saw though, but one of these.......
https://www.makita.ca/index2new.php?event=tool&id=63
Last edited:
Wattsjoinerybarn
Established Member
I haven’t actually used either but have owned my fair share of mitre saws and now use the kapex 120.
Kapex will out live and out last. It’s design will ensure no play.
It will hold its value, be more accurate and nicer to use plus will be better on dust collection.
Power has no place on most these tools as long as the blade is sharp!
Only you can decide if you want to pay the extra
Kapex will out live and out last. It’s design will ensure no play.
It will hold its value, be more accurate and nicer to use plus will be better on dust collection.
Power has no place on most these tools as long as the blade is sharp!
Only you can decide if you want to pay the extra
pe2dave
Established Member
I have the big Makita. Only downside, the fence - not sure why / how, is no longer straight (one half to the other) by a couple of mm.
Otherwise accurate and easy to use. Makes a mess (odd vac size). Bloody heavy if you do want to move it.
I've never had to make use of the 12" blade, sure 4" cut would have done me, whatever that matches in blade size.
Otherwise accurate and easy to use. Makes a mess (odd vac size). Bloody heavy if you do want to move it.
I've never had to make use of the 12" blade, sure 4" cut would have done me, whatever that matches in blade size.
That is only because you have a 12 inch blade, had you brought a 10 inch then by now you would have found a need for the 12 !!
I bump the blade into the workpiece on the waste side for starters. The small mark made by the tooth shows me exactly where the cut is going to be. I can then tap the workpiece along a bit. TBH I cant see the laser thing giving a level of accuracy as the line is quite wide and not as clearly defined when you bring the pencil mark up to it. But maybe thats just lack of experience as I've not used a laser equipped version.
AmericanCraftsmanship
Member
I recommend the Dewalt 780. I ran the Dewalt 780 back in the states for years. Every decent professional carpenter I know back home runs the 780 with an aftermarket tall fence. They and myself have run miles and miles of crown and base with no issues. Years ago Kapex had a reputation for motors burning up which doesn't seem to be the case anymore, but then again none of the other professionals I know use it anymore... just fanboys and YouTubers. When I moved countries I bought the Kapex 120 and its currently in my shop. I do mainly furniture now, but if I get back into trim and outfit a van I'll buy a second saw and it will definitely be a DW 780. I really don't think the Festool is worth the 500-600 pound difference. In general I've really gone off of Festool saws. I have the carvex400, and Ts75 and now ready to sell both. I tried a couple of their table saws, absolute joke. I've also switched to Packouts as the systainers are rubbish in comparison. I'm a professional and have no problem spending a premium when warranted. I don't think any of their tools are worth the premium beyond the domino and routers. The domino has saved me more time and made me more money than any tool I own.
I've also noticed some issues with the Kapex:
1) Mine was living on a folding rolling stand for a bit. The blade and arrow indicator have both required a proper squaring a couple times beyond the initial setup presumably from moving around and closing the stand. Its gotten knocked out about a 1/4 of a mm over 200mm. It might get worse the more it bounces around, but I true it up before it becomes a problem.
2) The back fence on mine isn't dead 90 to the base and its got some play when pushing stock up against it.
3) The other thing that irks me is the holes in the base don't fit third party miter saw stand adapters. Another example of the Festool tax. Kind of like when I bought my LR hold drilling kit and the centering pin requires an 8mm collet (extra £65)... but the routers that are compatible with the hole drilling don't come with 1/4 and 1/2 collets... or the fact My $25 collins coping foot fits every jigsaw except the festool (the festool coping foot is about £60-70).
4) Crown stops are another £70 festool tax. Pretty sure my Dewalt came with them, but can be bought for £20.
I've also noticed some issues with the Kapex:
1) Mine was living on a folding rolling stand for a bit. The blade and arrow indicator have both required a proper squaring a couple times beyond the initial setup presumably from moving around and closing the stand. Its gotten knocked out about a 1/4 of a mm over 200mm. It might get worse the more it bounces around, but I true it up before it becomes a problem.
2) The back fence on mine isn't dead 90 to the base and its got some play when pushing stock up against it.
3) The other thing that irks me is the holes in the base don't fit third party miter saw stand adapters. Another example of the Festool tax. Kind of like when I bought my LR hold drilling kit and the centering pin requires an 8mm collet (extra £65)... but the routers that are compatible with the hole drilling don't come with 1/4 and 1/2 collets... or the fact My $25 collins coping foot fits every jigsaw except the festool (the festool coping foot is about £60-70).
4) Crown stops are another £70 festool tax. Pretty sure my Dewalt came with them, but can be bought for £20.
Do you want something that’s truly accurate more versatile and considerably cheaper and better built that either of your two options?
It’s a little bit bigger foot print than either, but I’m guessing your going to be be putting it in or building some form of permanent cabinet which jeans that the foot print won’t be too much different.
My suggestion also doubles up as a very handy bench and has fairly good extraction.
Have I tempted you?
Look at the Wadkin radial arm saws. Absolutely superb bits of kit. I have one and it’s the most accurate piece of kit I own. RAS saws have a ‘reputation’ which for some models is well deserved. The Wadkin is a battle ship and doesn’t flex. They are dirt cheap to buy.
It’s a little bit bigger foot print than either, but I’m guessing your going to be be putting it in or building some form of permanent cabinet which jeans that the foot print won’t be too much different.
My suggestion also doubles up as a very handy bench and has fairly good extraction.
Have I tempted you?
Look at the Wadkin radial arm saws. Absolutely superb bits of kit. I have one and it’s the most accurate piece of kit I own. RAS saws have a ‘reputation’ which for some models is well deserved. The Wadkin is a battle ship and doesn’t flex. They are dirt cheap to buy.
I knew a few guys who used all Dewalt gear including that saw but in a workshop it still has the rails poking out the rear.
Bristol_Rob
Established Member
Which model do you have?
dvddvd
Established Member
What I'm really looking for is something with a smaller depth footprint less than 900mm..
An accurate saw, weight does not matter as it will be permanently fixed in workshop.
With a 8 inch -10 inch blade
An accurate saw, weight does not matter as it will be permanently fixed in workshop.
With a 8 inch -10 inch blade
Similar threads
