Angle brackets....

[Victorthesecond]

Hi all. I'm doing a small job for a friend - basically, I'm going to build a triangular step for their newly installed 'garden room'. It's an easy triangle to cut the wood for - 2 x 45degree angles and the third is 90 degrees. The plan is to build a frame (timber I've got is 100mm wide x 32mm thick), then fix battens (same timber, attached to the inside of the frame) running from top to bottom (of the triangle) and then fix deck boards across the triangle at 90 degrees to the battens. I was planning on using angle brackets to attach the battens to the frame but an struggling to find any at the angle I'd need for a few (I.e I can't find any other than 90 degree brackets). The whole thing will sit on a concrete base which is already laid.

Any ideas? I could just screw into the frame / end of each batten I suppose?

Also, the frame will sit on the concrete but if anyone has any ideas what I might put between the frame and the concrete - perhaps to extend the life of the weird 8 / minimise damp -, feel free to share them!

Thank you.

Mike

 

[rogxwhit]

If brackets were 45deg and internal you wouldn't be able to get the screws in! Use backflap hinges, and do the 90deg corner last.

 

[Victorthesecond]

Thank you. I'd never heard of them until now!!

 

[rogxwhit]

They won't be quite as rigid because there's a little play at the pins. But the top boards should stiffen things up. Or you could get some 90deg strap brackets and use them externally, after bending them to suit.

 

[Victorthesecond]

They won't be quite as rigid because there's a little play at the pins. But the top boards should stiffen things up. Or you could get some 90deg strap brackets and use them externally, after bending them to suit.

Thanks. You're right - once the battens are all in place and the decking attached, things will be very secure.

 

[baldkev]

I think I'd be looking to screw the framework together, 100mm screws. If the 32mm was thicker ( 4x2 ) id consider coach screws.
You can use plastic packers fixed to the bottom of the frame to space it up, or get short galvanised coach screws and put some of them in, the heads are about 8mm thick, plus, if really needed, you can wind them in or out a touch for levelling.

Edit to add: you should consider fixing the framework down into the concrete.....

 

[Victorthesecond]

If brackets were 45deg and internal you wouldn't be able to get the screws in! Use backflap hinges, and do the 90deg corner last.

Hi, thanks for your thoughts. Jut musing, but I'm not sure it will work....As you can (hopefully!) see from the attached, even if I used hinged backplates for the 45degree angles, I don't see how I can screw them in as it's not possible to "move" the pieces of wood in order to get the screws in. Does that make sense??

 

[Victorthesecond]

I think I'd be looking to screw the framework together, 100mm screws. If the 32mm was thicker ( 4x2 ) id consider coach screws.
You can use plastic packers fixed to the bottom of the frame to space it up, or get short galvanised coach screws and put some of them in, the heads are about 8mm thick, plus, if really needed, you can wind them in or out a touch for levelling.

Edit to add: you should consider fixing the framework down into the concrete.....

Thank you for your thoughts. It's a good idea to attach the frame, do you think I can get away with using something like Gripfill?

https://www.wickes.co.uk/search?text=gripfill

 

[baldkev]

Thank you for your thoughts. It's a good idea to attach the frame, do you think I can get away with using something like Gripfill?

https://www.wickes.co.uk/search?text=gripfill

Id spend a small amount of time to fix with mechanical fixings. Outside the wood is subjected to cold, wet, summer heat and will move a bit, which will make gripfill etc fail.

 

[rogxwhit]

Hi, thanks for your thoughts. Jut musing, but I'm not sure it will work....As you can (hopefully!) see from the attached, even if I used hinged backplates for the 45degree angles, I don't see how I can screw them in as it's not possible to "move" the pieces of wood in order to get the screws in. Does that make sense??

Indeed it does, but you'd have to allow a gap at the corners when 'unhinged' ... in that the elements would have to be square-ended to start with. Does this matter? It's an aesthetic concern, rather than a structural one. Alter your drawing to show square-ended stuff & you'll see what I mean ...