Advice please on first Band Saw purchase.

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Beau

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Ttrees":29h4lq2i said:
Thanks Beau for replying with an in depth description.
I must agree, I think the steel is a bit thin on these machines also, I was trying to get an idea if these saws can
handle a 1" blade on the American forums.
(1997 ACM star frame, Griggio SNA600 vintage, which I believe its not changed since.)
I have only ran thin 1" blades on it or 3/4" heavier gauge.
I suspect my frame could be a bit damaged from over tensioning at some point in its life....

Or it could be that it took a fall at some point
Threads damaged in frame for upper wheel mounting, (the part that the tensioning mechanism casting bolts to)....
and a broken off threaded part in the trunnion casting, that the single bolt engages, (which I might add is the only thing holding the table on :shock: )

The table is cast on these as evident from the deep scratches on mine
It must have been used for pallets or something :(
This could be the reason why there was a big lump missing from the bottom wheel also.

Now, I have anything but crisp edges on this thing, so have to guess it could be the reason why blades are dancing back to the thrust guide, and towards the user.
I have dressed them flat (as good as can be done. I probably have done a wip somewhere)
I have another tire that I may put on soon, thinner than the original vulcanised rubber though, so I've nothing to
loose, by dressing the tire down to reclaim more edge "real estate" as the Americans say.

I would like it to be a bit more robust, but then I'd not be able to lift it.
Table off, of course, (will be taking off wheels anymore, since its so easy, I found out, this needs to be done
to check the progress of the wheels when dressing them ...your eyes play tricks on you, judging flat inside cabinet

That's probably more than you guys want to know, but maybe some may find it useful info.
Thanks again
Tom

Sorry to be so disparaging about a saw you have. I am probably making the Griggio sound worse than it was. It's partly related to expectation based on money spent. My first saw was the Kity 613 which for £500 took all I ever through at it. Very strong frame but basic guides but it could be set up to do precise work. I was building a large boat so upgraded to a much bigger saw in the form of the Griggio at 4x the price. It was not 4x the machine as mentioned the relatively week chassis was my biggest gripe as it made it unrealistic to properly tension large blades (1") for re-sawing. With smaller blades and some aftermarket guides I am sure it could perform very well. Good luck with your machine and I am sure the tyres can be sorted out. If you cant get tyres from the manufacturer you can get cork on a roll from Scott and Sargent to make up you own band. Good luck
 

Ttrees

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Very interested with you stating your opinion be it bad or good, infact I'm more interested
in the negative points. :)
I did kinda expect to get a 1" heavy gauge blade on this saw...
I am happy to use a 3/4" for now though.

As I got this saw for a good price because it was needing work, I wouldn't be deterred from doing some major structural welding work on the saw, if the time came for major resawing.
Probably the only other saws that I guess I could lift, just about .... would be the ACM 540, maybe 640 SNAC models,
maybe the Centauro SP saws have thicker frames aswell?
The older CO600's look solid as, but the motors look to be fixed star wound motors....
Wouldn't know if these would be much of an upgrade strength wise though...

Apart from that, there are newer light blue Wadkin's in the 500 and above range which look to be stout...
I think they're about the same weight if not heavier, but still manageable looking.

If I may ask, where on the frame did you notice this flexing?

I've bought a tire allready from Scott&Sargeant for the 600SP model, (it has a ridge, as advertised)
It shouldn't be any bother to cut it off,
I'm just not sure putting a new tire on is the solution...
These tires are quite a bit thinner, so I might try dressing the old ones down a bit more...

If I dress some rubber off the top wheel there will be less or a rounded edge on the top,
In short, I suppose... I'm trying to ask.....

Does the front edge of the tire in these machines, have the same, or similar effect as the crown does
in smaller machines ?

This could be the reason my blades are walking a bit ...giving a squeaking sound, even after infinite adjustments were made, got narrow blades running true and sorted out wheel adjustments since.
I'm gonna see if I can get more of that rounded edge off
Thanks
Tom
 

Beau

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Ttrees":3va7r1qs said:
Very interested with you stating your opinion be it bad or good, infact I'm more interested
in the negative points. :)
I did kinda expect to get a 1" heavy gauge blade on this saw...
I am happy to use a 3/4" for now though.

As I got this saw for a good price because it was needing work, I wouldn't be deterred from doing some major structural welding work on the saw, if the time came for major resawing.
Probably the only other saws that I guess I could lift, just about .... would be the ACM 540, maybe 640 SNAC models,
maybe the Centauro SP saws have thicker frames aswell?
The older CO600's look solid as, but the motors look to be fixed star wound motors....
Wouldn't know if these would be much of an upgrade strength wise though...

Apart from that, there are newer light blue Wadkin's in the 500 and above range which look to be stout...
I think they're about the same weight if not heavier, but still manageable looking.

If I may ask, where on the frame did you notice this flexing?

I've bought a tire allready from Scott&Sargeant for the 600SP model, (it has a ridge, as advertised)
It shouldn't be any bother to cut it off,
I'm just not sure putting a new tire on is the solution...
These tires are quite a bit thinner, so I might try dressing the old ones down a bit more...

If I dress some rubber off the top wheel there will be less or a rounded edge on the top,
In short, I suppose... I'm trying to ask.....

Does the front edge of the tire in these machines, have the same, or similar effect as the crown does
in smaller machines ?

This could be the reason my blades are walking a bit ...giving a squeaking sound, even after infinite adjustments were made, got narrow blades running true and sorted out wheel adjustments since.
I'm gonna see if I can get more of that rounded edge off
Thanks
Tom

The reason I think the blade was walking is the flex of the frame. It will run true with a smaller blade but not a larger one and the only explanation I could see was flex. It also affected the alignment of the guides. Think I measured it once but too long ago to remember details. Cant help with tyres with a ridge as mine were plain and flat. Dressing might work. I never did this on the Griggio but had to with the Wadkin. How I did it was remove the upper wheel and the bearing mount. I set it up on the bench horizontally and then turned it up against a belt sander. Was very controlled and easy to do but cant remember if the wheel can be removed with a bearing on the Griggio. Of the other Italian machines I deduced that the Griggio was the best built at the time based on it's weight being the heaviest of the options. Not sure I saw a Centauro. Be interested to see how you get on with your mods and improvements :D Maybe a little WIP?
 

Ttrees

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I think I will do a WIP when I get this running sound,
It may interest some folks having this problem with flat tired machines.
I probably should have got two tires, since the postage was a killer.
as it seems that the tire on the top wheel, although thick, may have too much knocked off the edge ...
I have adjusted the wheel out on the shaft though, with no noticeable difference.

I Will keep ye updated when I get to the bottom of this
Thanks Beau
Tom
 

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